Timing belt change on 2006 Aveo LS: My new detailed write-up

[serega12]

Re: Yomama post for the water pump tool.

Don't Stress too much about the "special tool" needed for the water pump. I fashioned one from a piece of scrap steel by cutting the water pump shape using a hack saw. its just a home made wrench but it worked fine for turning on both the old and the new water pump.

care to post some pictures of your home made tool?

[04LSforever]

Here are a coupe shots of the tool. To make your own, just get the 'hex' dimension off of the new water pump (should be about 1 3/4") and cut it into a piece of scrap (about 2 1/2" into the scrap). Make sure your scrap is wide enough (about 3 1/2") so that there is still enough 'leg width' (about an inch) left to torque the water pump. This is 1/8" thick plate. Keep as compact and flat as possible to be able to maneuver it into position.

[Daox]

Nice tool. I'm sure it costs less than a specialty service tool from GM!

[roberco]

or you can get one online for about $18. Look for this model number LIS13500.

[speedracer]

Thanks for the write up ,changed my belt 10 days ago.

[AveoSS]

Thanks so much for the instruction, great job! I was a little intimidate but with the instructions it was a breeze to do, much easier than I expected. I used a strap oil filter wrench to hold the cranckshaft pulley while using the breaker bar to lose the nut, Napa has the DOHC timing gear lock tool for $39, and I used a large whench to move the water pump, it took 8 hours total time. I got the belt changed on my ride at 60k, it looked good still but its one those things u don't want to risk a fail. Anyways, thanks again.

[DailyDriverMark]

Nice Job. I used a pair of regular vice grips on my WP and they fit and worked just fine. Your car is the same year and color as mine. My write up is very similar, I like your belt tensioning instructions. much better information I than on my write-up (see my sig. below) Using a ton of tie-wraps is a great way to keep cam pulleys from drifting.

[AveoSS]

Another thing to remenber, once u put the new belt in and release the timming gears the marks may not align, why? because the tension on the belt has not been adjusted yet, once u adjust the tension and do the 2 complete revolutions on the crank it will align perfectly.

[rodo]

New belt installation:

On a flat work surface, place the new belt on top of the old one so that they line up exactly. Mark the new belt in the same locations as the old one. Now count the number of teeth between the marks on the old belt and make sure you have exactly the same number of teeth between the marks on the new one. The last step is a bit overkill, but you'll be 100% sure that you have everything just right.

Thanks for a great write-up. I originally thought the marking and counting was overkill, but am glad I did it just for the peace of mind. The replacement belt was fine, but on a cool night wouldn't relax very well from the bizarre shape it acquired during shipping. I did manage to mount it correctly by feel, but would have been very apprehensive over being a tooth or so off if the marks had not been there for confirmation - like I said, a fortune in peace of mind.

I installed the new belt and idler on our 2004 HB with 45K miles the night before taking it on a 1,000 mile run. Both a trusted mechanic and the local Chevy dealer had said not to mess with it until 60K, but of course neither had any knowledge of the early timing belt problems. The OEM GM/Gates belt I removed was in pretty good shape, just starting some light surface cracks on the backside. The original owner did maintenance by the book at a dealer for the first 30K miles, so suspect he got it changed out in the GM early replacement program as there was some hose insulation damage indicating the upper timing cover may have been off before.

Would have liked to have changed the tensioner and coolant pump, but couldn't afford the additional time if there had been any snags... and I seem to find at least one snag under these sorts of time crunches. So guess I'll be changing it again around 75K unless the pump starts leaking sooner.

Can the tensioner actually be replaced without removing the cam sprocket? It was late and I didn't take a hard look at it, but didn't appear I could get to all three bolts with the cam sprocket in place. Is that correct? I had the cams locked, so didn't take time to check if I could get to the bolts by rotating the cam, using crowsfeet, or some other option.

[serialize]

Thanks for this fantastic write-up, as well as all the additional replies and input.
I just did the job this past weekend. It took me the whole weekend (about 5 hours Sat afternoon and another 7 hours Sun) but i don't consider myself "fast" at this kind of stuff but I try and be thourough anyway.
Both the serpentine belt tensioner and the timing tensioner where cracked rights through and ready to snap (which likely would have taken out the timing belt). I replaced them with Continental made in Germany timing belt, pulleys and tensioners and OEM serpentine belt. While I had the coolant out i also did the thermostat.
Didn't end up using any special tools. To remove/install the waterpump just used chanel-lock plyers. For the cam sprockets just let them move but they only moved a couple of teeth. I followed the instructions of marking all the points on the sprockets and the cranck pulley AND on the old timing belt and when transfered over the marks to the new timing belt was very easy to line up the cam sprockets again to how they were originally.
Definitely wouldn't say this is an easy job, takes some time and there are a few things that require dissassembly, but after getting it all done was a job well done.
a few notes:
- for the water pump removel, the inner timing belt cover can by bent out just like mentioned in this original post to remvoe the pump and install the new one (at first I thought maybe not possible when I saw it but I was able to get it done with not too much fuss).
- definitely want to unbolt the power steering line that passes over the outter timing belt cover and cam cover to allow it to move enough to remove/install the outer timing cover.
- if changing the serpentine belt tensioner, removal is easier then the instal. You may need to find someone with small hands to put the bolts in for you as that part is VERY tight to access. After I got the old one out and had the new one in place ready to be bolted on i got my 4' 11" wife with her tiny hands to thread in the bolts for me and then I was able to continue on and torque them with my wrench.

Thanks again for all the great input, not sure if I would have got through the job without this write-up.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention the particulars:
2005 Aveo LT Hatchback Automatic Transmission
105,990 Kilometers