lower control arm

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joe
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lower control arm

Postby joe » Sat Sep 04, 2010 12:13 am

if I change the lower control arm will it need a alignment?


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Petrified.Rabbit
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Location: Pittsburgh

Re: lower control arm

Postby Petrified.Rabbit » Sat Sep 04, 2010 9:42 am

Most likely, if you move the ball joint yes.

joe
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Re: lower control arm

Postby joe » Sun Sep 05, 2010 2:31 am

yes i did move the ball joint.

joe
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Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 12:07 am

Re: lower control arm

Postby joe » Sun Sep 05, 2010 2:44 am

Check the tires' toe, the angles the tires are facing. Park the vehicle on level ground, such as a garage or street. With the steering wheel centered and tires facing straight ahead, jack up one of the front tires with a tire jack. Use jack stands to secure the vehicle. Spray paint a stripe on the tread as you spin the tire a full revolution.

2
Using a small nail, inscribe a straight line into the paint, lightly pressed against the tire. Place this line throughout the whole tire as it's spinning. Position the line on the tread blocks to make it easier and continuous around the whole tire. Repeat the steps for the other front-end tire.

3
Measure from line to line on both tires on the front of the tire. Ensure that the tape is level across your measurement. Repeat the step on the back of the tire. Compare the two measurements. The difference is your toe, the amount of angle that the tire is misaligned.

4
Loosen the tie-rod adjuster sleeves. Use a penetrating lubricant to help break the nuts loose. This lubricant can be found at most auto parts stores.

5
With the steering wheel centered, adjust the tie-rods, the bar that controls steering in your vehicle. With the adjuster sleeves loosened, adjust the rods equally. Remove the jack stands and jack. Place the car in neutral and manually roll the car back and forth several feet, a couple of times. This transfers your alignment to the tires. Repeat this step until your measurements of the toe are in check.

6
Complete the alignment by torquing and tightening the adjuster sleeves. Hope this works.
.

Read more: How to Do Front End Alignment | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5929494_do-fron ... z0ydQ65Byh

joe
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Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 12:07 am

Re: lower control arm

Postby joe » Sun Sep 05, 2010 2:52 am

(or)
•1
Lie on the ground and have your assistant help you measure the distance between the vehicle's two front wheels, measuring from the leading edges of the tires. The leading edge is the tread side that points toward the front of the vehicle. The easiest way to do this is to have the same reference point on each tire, so pick a vertical groove and both of you use that for reference.

•2
Measure the distance between the wheels from the trailing edges of the tires. The trailing edge is the tread side that points toward the rear of the car. The difference between these two measurements is the amount your toe is off. It is possible that one side is off more than the other, but adjusting them both at the same time should fix the problem.

•3
Locate the tie rod ends under the vehicle. They're mounted to the steering knuckle, and are generally 6 inches long with a ball joint at one end. An adjustment sleeve joins the tie rod to the steering linkage.

•4
On one side of the vehicle, loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Then turn the adjusting sleeve with your hands or a pair of channel-lock pliers. By turning the adjusting sleeves toward the back of the vehicle, it pulls the leading edge of the tire toward the engine. By turning it toward the front bumper, it pushes the leading edge away from the vehicle. Repeat this step on the other side of the vehicle.

•5
Re-measure the distance between both the leading and trailing edges of the tires with the help of your assistant and the tape measure. If the measurement is within 1/8 inch, then you're within the acceptable range. If not, repeat the process.

•6
Tighten down the nuts on the adjustment sleeves using the 3/8-inch ratchet.



Read more: How to Adjust Tie Rods | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5569249_adjust- ... z0ydSUcr8Q

wylee
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Re: lower control arm

Postby wylee » Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:05 am

Neither of those address caster or camber. That method of adjusting toe would get the toe pretty close but it's difficult to measure the track width 90 degrees from the caster angle in the front, and nearly impossible in the rear.

Tires are expensive compared to an alignment. I'd pay to put it on an alignment rack.

joe
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Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 12:07 am

Re: lower control arm

Postby joe » Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:52 am

it worked for me but my swift is not lowered.

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Petrified.Rabbit
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Re: lower control arm

Postby Petrified.Rabbit » Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:19 pm

The fact that I know how to do an alignment and do my own adjustment in my driveway. I can tell you that I have paid for worse alignments than I can do myself. I use a right angle (like a t square)that is like 20"x25". And an angle finder. I'm usually with in the place I set it when I check it on the rack. Within a 1/10th degree.

Toe is probably the most wear fastest.

joe
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Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 12:07 am

Re: lower control arm

Postby joe » Mon Sep 06, 2010 1:05 am

well when we put a lower control arm on the car we test drove it and it shot to the left after 2 tries we got them dead center drove it to work and it did not pull either way if it saved my tires for now until I can get to the shop it was worth it. :)

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NYChevoo
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Re: lower control arm

Postby NYChevoo » Tue Sep 07, 2010 1:27 am

Forgive me for being ignorant but I thought when you changed a lower control arm it didnt affect alignment.

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