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and standalone messes wit the oem harness?
tryin to learn little more bout turbos so i can add one to mine

there are probably easier ways to go turbo, if you have someone who know the numbers/math theory, then you could switch the map/maf whatever sensor to go back into specified range while changing out the injectors to match what the engines new needs are. this would need done with a dyno and o2 sensor readings.. probably also use an Adjustable fuel pressure regulator to fine tune it too.. with a boost controller.

basically you would spend your money on dynotuning to trick the stock computer to run the engine correctly. instead of on standalone.



standalone replaces your factory computer all together. it can be spliced into the regular harness if it is set up to use all the factory sensors. often you would be better off using the purchased harness and their sensors. they also do no come preload (especially in our case) but often if you tell the seller what your basic configuration is, they can supply you with a few base lines to tune from, but this shoudl still be done on a dyno and 02 readings.. etc.

piggy back splices between your factory computer and sensors or what ever you are controlling. (timing/fuel) you can do one thing or most depending n what you look into getting, like the first option it "tricks" the factory computer into thinking it is stock, while having computer controlled and monitored alterations done. this can be used easliy to turn up fuel for a turbo.

it all depends on how far you go in my opinion.

I found this guy on cardomain that hasnt logged in for a while, but states that the aveo auto can handle up to 235HP, the manual a little more. Seemed as he was trying to fit together a supercharger for the aveo too

Its not the HP you gotta worry about, its the Torque you put thru the gearbox.

HP is just something calculated from torque, when you dyno a car, the dyno measures torque at the wheels, hp is calculated from a formulae based on the torque you put out.

Hell you could make 350 hp without a problem, as long as you dont do over the torque limit of your tranny.

Nemasys wrote:Its not the HP you gotta worry about, its the Torque you put thru the gearbox.

HP is just something calculated from torque, when you dyno a car, the dyno measures torque at the wheels, hp is calculated from a formulae based on the torque you put out.

Hell you could make 350 hp without a problem, as long as you dont do over the torque limit of your tranny.

yeah, the formula works backwards too still, 350HP should still command some TQ

it doesn't always, there are cars out there with hp but no torque... (well relatively)

and even so load and i will call it transition matter too.. you might be able to put more hp through it with technique, and it wont break immediately. but it will wear faster still.

but what would allow it to break is gear changes, hard acceleration etc.

i think i might as well stay NA on the aveo, 160 from the engine should be simple, something close to xaiogory, and if me and my car lose some weight, 2600 pounds should have me at about 15.5 without any nitrous im guessing?

15.5 with an auto and 160hp?? lol no way man, a friend of mine has an mx-3 with a 200+hp 2.5L KLZE v6 engine with a lightened flywheel, 2.5 inch exhaust and he makes around 15.2 to 15.5 on the 1/4.

My 2.0 does 16.9 with the D16 tranny, i havent tried with the D20 yet, i would expect low 16's with the D20

the mx-3 withthe v-6 is really heavy

Nemasys wrote:15.5 with an auto and 160hp?? lol no way man, a friend of mine has an mx-3 with a 200+hp 2.5L KLZE v6 engine with a lightened flywheel, 2.5 inch exhaust and he makes around 15.2 to 15.5 on the 1/4.

My 2.0 does 16.9 with the D16 tranny, i havent tried with the D20 yet, i would expect low 16's with the D20

i think the v6 mx3 would only run a mid 16, he must have some more mods done to it, and it is a bit older im guessing?