timing belt, water pump, tensioner and idler pulleys

[Reddemonx92]

for 1900$ you can buy a new engine delivered to your door

[Denis]

the dealer said the compression test results are 210,190,170,60

i will check those numbers my self, and we shall go from there, the car is worth 3000, my goal now is to get it runin right, turn it back to stock and trade it in at a dealership for another vehicle as of now thinking to get a 2009 or 2010 mitsubishi Galant to compliment my 2008 Galant LOL

[Denis]

the dealer said the compression test results are 210,190,170,60

i will check those numbers my self, and we shall go from there, the car is worth 3000, my goal now is to get it runin right, turn it back to stock and trade it in at a dealership for another vehicle as of now thinking to get a 2009 or 2010 mitsubishi Galant to compliment my 2008 Galant LOL

[Petrified.Rabbit]

i hate to see you lose the aveo, but its your decision. could be fixed yourself for about $300-400.

[Denis]

i hate to see you lose the aveo, but its your decision. could be fixed yourself for about $300-400.

if i can do that for 300$ then im in

[Petrified.Rabbit]

Head gasket kit and head bolts or studs (if torque to yield) and then a replacement valve would be all the parts.

I'll look for prices later. But you basically redo the timing belt but while it is off you pull the head replace the valve and put it back together and finish the timing job (marking the belt this time).

The valve could be replaced yourself but you need to check the head for damage to see if machine work is needed. But with 60 # I doubt it's that bad. And just dropping a new valve would be the quick and dirty (cheap) way.

[Reddemonx92]

Best bet would look at a local junk yard for a low mileage aveo or look on your friendly flebay. lol

[Petrified.Rabbit]

looks like @ $80 (on ebay,average "store" price is $140) for the complete head gasket set, $10 for an intake vale, $13 for an exhaust valve, and then $60 for the head bolt set, so..

@ $160 with shipping, and then some time.. will need a valve spring compressor, should be able to get one free from napa or advance with a deposit, or buy one for $25..

keep in mind thats the cheapest, if the valve seat is ok option.

[Denis]

Head gasket kit and head bolts or studs (if torque to yield) and then a replacement valve would be all the parts.

I'll look for prices later. But you basically redo the timing belt but while it is off you pull the head replace the valve and put it back together and finish the timing job (marking the belt this time).

The valve could be replaced yourself but you need to check the head for damage to see if machine work is needed. But with 60 # I doubt it's that bad. And just dropping a new valve would be the quick and dirty (cheap) way.

wat do you mean marking the belt? how we did it was ziptieing the cams so they dont move and having the markings line up on the gears

[Petrified.Rabbit]

Yes you do what you did, exactly the same way, but in addition to what you did mark the belt and pulley with a china marker, or white out. You will paint a tooth on the pulley along with a matching tooth on the belt. (i do a set of three, two belt teeth with one pulley tooth in the middle, or two teeth on the pulley and one tooth on the belt creating a "valley" the painted tooth needs to sit in..)

Do this BEFORE you take it apart. Then if replacing the belt transfer the marks to the new belt, by putting them side by side AND counting the teeth, (you don't need to worry about that though since you are reusing your new belt)?

The when you put it back together, you match the markings you made, and it guarantees that the teeth on the belt match up to the pulley just as before. Along with matching up the timing marks on the engine as you did when you did your timing belt.