Aveo 2.0L Turbocharged

[Nemasys]

Ahh crap no wonder oil was gushing out, one of the hoses is connected to an oil catch can but the other one is still connected to the throttle body lol (thats actually funny lol)

It doesnt matter because it was leaking pretty bad before i even installed the turbo.

Also what thickness is your cometic gasket?

[exist3nce]

I would also suggest ARP head studs while the head is off.

ARP part no: 209-4301

those are the ones I used.

Can be found on ebay.

[Petrified.Rabbit]

do what exist3nce said, cometic gaskets are good and arp is a good decision. especially since they are not torque to yield. like many head bolts now. in case you even need to take the head of again (like piston swap or headgasket spacer) etc..

sounds like you did boost the crank case from what he said too, get that fixed before the new engine!!

maybe even replace those two main seals this time because they seem to be trouble spots from reading your experiences..


exist3nce: what is the stock head gasket thickness?

[exist3nce]

As mentioned earlier, the stock thickness is 0.051" and it is a composite material with metal rings around the bores.

Mine is 0.074".

The smaller hose that connects the TB to valve cover needs to be internally blocked or removed.

[Petrified.Rabbit]

i thought you were recommending the opel one because its stock thickness was more than the daewoo.. not that it was the same.

[exist3nce]

Any updates on this? Any further work has been done..... new motor, new headgasket?

Still wanted to know if it was tuned or attempted to be tuned....

[Nemasys]

New motor coming in next week with MLS head gasket, ARP head studs and a 4 puck kevlar clutch.

It was running on the stock ECU and tune. I thought you said the map sensor couldn't take boost and made the engine freak out, it was running extremely well for me, a little lean under boost (15.5 to 16.5 afr). I won't even need to make a check valve to prevent it from seeing boost (anyways im taking it out cause megasquirt has a built in map)

Hell I could have gotten away with my fuel tuning with a simple SAFC2 at the 6 psi it was running at but im planning for 10 psi and stock injectors wont cut it.

More importantly my faulty crank seal got destroyed by having the crankcase pressurised, I forgot to take out the little hose from the throttle body to the valve cover.

The damage with the seal was done way before the headgasket blew and even so maybe the headgasket wasnt in a good shape to begin with. You never know with those scrapyard engines, the gasket might have skrunk a bit due to the engine sitting for a long time with no fluids in it. I wouldn't be surprised that's the case, because when I put the engine in, both crank seals had shrunk and had to be replaced. I also noticed from the moment the engine went in, a very small leak of oil and coolant exactly where the gasket blew.

While I wait for everything I have started to wire the megasquirt into my car, so far so good.

[exist3nce]

Where are you getting the clutch from and how much $?


As for blowing the HG on the first night, you should have followed what you yourself said earlier in your thread...

I know its really not ideal to run a few pounds of boost with an untuned car, but i wanna see if it can take it, of course i dont wanna blow the engine so im not going to floor the thing 1st time out for a drive, ill take it slowly. If its running too lean then i will take the bov off to bleed any boost out of the hole until i get the megasquirt, it shouldnt be too far down the road, maybe a month at most.

Considering that you have a wideband, and you saw that AFRs were going into the 15-16s under boost, I can't understand why you would continue to beat on it (unless you enjoy changing headgaskets and rebuilding your motor for fun). 15-16 AFR is not just "a little lean" for boost, it is very lean...to the point of blowing stuff up (stock headgasket is easily the first to go). Its true, the stock headgasket isn't very good for boost, but they will still last much longer than 1 night if the motor is tuned... both of my stock ones lasted for 1.5 years of daily driving! Even if you had the MLS gasket, something else probably would have given out (melted piston, cracked rings, burnt valve, etc). Hopefully you learned from this, and will tune it properly next time before beating on it. /rant

Also I never said that that stock MAP sensor made the engine freak out if it sees boost, but that it is a 1bar MAP sensor not designed to take any boost at all. Over time and continuous exposure to boost, the sensor itself will be damaged and not read properly. At least that's what happened to my first 2 sensors..... and at over $130 to replace its not cheap to kill them.

Interested to know how the MS works for you...

[Nemasys]

I dont really care what happens to this engine because it was done and i had to change it anyways. I should have taken it easy like i said, but after seeing the power it made, i couldnt resist. I was well aware something would get damaged, thats why it didnt even bother me when it happened.

I will not do the same thing to the new engine.

The clutch is from Garret, dont have a price yet.

[Nemasys]

The megasquirt is wired in and everything checks out except the tach signal input it needs to work.

I want to run the megasquirt in fuel only mode, everything i have read says i can simply connect the ignition input to the negative terminal of the ignition coil.

Everything i have tried doesnt work, i don't know where i can get a signal, maybe the unit isnt jumpered for it so i sent an email to some1 who knows about it.