Coilovers

[Petrified.Rabbit]

the fronts need @ 4 mm shaved off, the thickness of the metal ear on each side to stay centered, or @ 4mm on the rear to add caster..

Caster? would it affect a camber bolt?

camber and caster are different. you could still adjust camber in the same way, but the angle of the axis the spindles turn on will be slightly changed if you shave the 4mm off the same side of the spindle. I suggest the rear as if you did the front it would have a negative effect on handling. if you do the rear it will negligibly add to high speed stability. Keep in mind you would do both sides toward the back of the car.



the lift isnt a big deal, my lowering springs fall out when the car was put on a lift.. confused the dealership mechanics a great deal. You just have to make sure the reseat properly on the perches. this is typically what the helper springs do, but as i said, i am riding around on bump stops.. it helps to check the cars structural stability.

[AveoSwagg09]

I know what a bump stop is but is there anything better than the yellow foam ones we get on oem equip.?

[Reddemonx92]

im confused sorry so what do we do? and there is no coilover kit then?

[Petrified.Rabbit]

there is no need for a kit, at least not like my initial plans. the rears will go right in using all the stock mounts. just leave the helper spring out for clearance to the fuel filler pipe. the fronts need 4mm shaved from the spindle (still need to make the how to to explain it but got too involved in making the end link kit instead).

basically a $15 grinder from harbor freight and an afternoon and you can put vw coil overs on your car. But in order to maintain the front sway bar connection your going to need to buy a end link kit.. which i am making for it to be as affordable as possible.

this mean my $600 "complete kit" example is now more like $425. Or just the install kit is going to be $125, not $300..

i figure saving you guys money (so an average aveo can afford it) is just as important to "success" as offering it in the first place.
plus i don't want to be making "redundant" parts when what you have works.

understand?

[WOLFMAN AK907]

Ok, well that sounds simple. Yeah, you'll have to explain to us a little more in depth where we need to grind and how much. Sounds cool though. So basically we won't need our springs in? or do we need to run H&R's? I'm a little confused on that part. Thanks bud.

[Petrified.Rabbit]

as it is pictured is how i've been running it, the factory spring perches are not used. the springs for the car are moved to the shock body.


i still need to cut the rear bump stops and do some pseudo auto X to see how the body flex is, but running on the bumps to increase flex transfer from the suspension to the body in daily driving it still rides great. its an improvement.

[Reddemonx92]

I think once you post more pics ill understand alot better. but still cant wait to see more progress with ur coilovers and the how to guide will help alot

[Petrified.Rabbit]

i i am still in need to write the whole how to... but i took it all apart and reassembled it today with pictures and started uploading them..

these are with the coil overs on! LOW..

[AveoSwagg09]

loving the low pics do you have a side car shot of it all the way low like it was in the Marlboro shot?

[Petrified.Rabbit]

thats not all the way low, you can see in the pictures there are over 2" of threads left..

i just put 40 miles on the car at that height..