XiaoGary's 2005 Hatchback Aveo

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My engine bay with newly added engine damper modified from EG6 brackets.



AEM Cold Air Intake installed.



The main component laid out. I chose Chrome silver. There is another color which is dark silver or grey. I prefer chrome. More sporty.



It came with the mounting to insert the vacuum tube. Custom made for Aveo.



It also came with the mounting metal extension to secure it properly so that it does not vibrate when car moves. And it does not scratch at the hole it passes through the top of bonnet to wheel arch area.




This is the hole I just talked about. There is already a screw hole down there unused that fits the AEM exactly.



Seen together in picture is SUMMIT strut tower bar, AEM chevy aveo cold air intake system with original HKS fully reloaded mush room sponge filter inside wheel arch, and 4 to 1 exos header I just got a set of HKS Reloaded Hi Flow Foam Mushroom Filter to replace the AEM Dry Flow Filter while I wash the AEM filter with the cleaning solution. The AEM filter is part of the AEM Cold Air Intake System for Aveo. The location of the filter is in the right wheel arch.

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AEM CAI pipe is 63mm, HKS reloaded is 70mm. Bought a joint extension to adapt the HKS to my AEM CAI pipe.

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The original crank shaft for 1.4DOHC has a stroke of 73.4mm. The sensor for crankshaft looks is the teeth like feature on the crankshaft as shown in the picture.



The 81.5mm stroke crankshaft I bought off ebay is without the crankshaft's teeth-liked feature. Had to modify the crankshaft in order to fit in the teeth-like features in for the sensor to sense the rotation position.



Lightweight billet stainless steel flywheel (4kg) and ceramic sports performance clutch.

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These are my pistons. Custom made 11.1:1 compression ratio.

Old Dyno charts some time in 2008.

My aveo now was dyno-ed 133.9hp on the wheels. It is a 1.4 DOHC aveo for those who remembers.

I have since stroked it with Lanos crankshaft, modified the crankshaft sensor to fit, big-bored with 81.0mm wiseco pistons 11.1:1 compression with pocketed valve cuts. Also changed to forged H Beam rods with ARP bolts. And ARP head bolts. Using Cometic 1.3mm gasket. Resultant cc is about 1680cc.

The head were ported and polished. The trottle body was bored. The fuel pump was changed to Walbro 255 liters/hr and installed a return line with SARD fuel regulator. Injectors remained stock and unchanged.

The dual cams were from a 1.6 lanos brand new and regrinded in UK to 275 durations. The cams were about 1.1mm lift higher than the stock 1.4 cams.

The exhaust is a set of long 4-1 extractor, removed cat, 1.8 inch mid pipe and 1.8 inch HotBits rear semi flow muffler.

UNICHIP piggyback which is unable to remove the power cut at 6.6K rpm.

The dyno chart are as follow.




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Another old dyno result in End 2008.

Had went for a few tuning session and some other modification after the last dyno chart posted on top. Such as new 2 inch mid pipe, new mid silencer, new rear free flow exos. New 40% lighter camshaft pulleys.

For conversion,

1 Kgm = 9.807 Nm.
So originally 18.2 Kgm (178.5Nm), after tuning is 20.6Nm (202Nm).



Managed to find one chart printed before the finalised tuning to see the torque in Nm.

This run is only slightly lower than final result. But the torque is selected as Nm. Easier to read compared to Kgm.

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Some brake conversion done 1 year plus ago.

Using 286mm rear brake disc and a single pot rear brake disc.

Basically, the ABS will not be affected, as I will be using back the drum brake cover (which is the outer piece which the brake shoe rub on). It consists of the center hub, 4 X 100 studs for the rims, bearing, and a ring gear which works with the magnetic ABS sensor. I will cut away the whole outer drum part, only leaving the center hub part to reduce weight and also I need the center part consisting of the ring gear for the ABS to work as per normal. I only need the center hub, the bearing, the ring gear and the 4 studs. I will also be changing the 4 studs to longer one to accomodate a 10mm spacer so that my wheels come flush with the wheel arch instead of hiding inside the arch.

The cutted hub (drum brake cover) looked like this. The ring gear is supposed to be inside the drum brake facing the center of the car. The 4 studs is facing outwards towards the rims. The studs are under the hub in the picture. So it cannot be seen. The wheel hub is actually standing on the 4 stud in the picture.



The left is the 286mm rear brake disc I am using now. The right is the 245mm original aveo front brake disc.



This is our original rear brake bracket (thickness 8mm) which is welded onto the rear arms. Have to dig out this piece to replace with another piece which is longer to mount the brake caliper. The 4 holes are for the hub. The one extra big hole is for the ABS sensor which will go through this metal brake, go through the drum brake and sense the ring gear on the hub. If this piece is not removed or digged out, the ABS sensor is not long enough to reach the ring gear with an added bracket (thickness 8mm).



After its digged out.





Customised bracket. This is before trimming. After the mounting of caliper is confirm, this will be trimmed to be smaller piece.



When its put on. I do not intend to weld it like the original bracket. Most vehicle's bracket are not welded. The cutted hub is supposed to be slotted into this center stem, with the ring gear nearer to the bracket. The ABS sensor will sense the ring gear through the hole you see. The big hole is for sensor to pass through. The smaller hole is the ABS mounting or securing screw.



Original drum brake assembly which is supposed to sit on the original bracket. Look at the drum shoes after 90,000km and 4 years usage. Still have 1mm left thickness for the thinner side (right side). Quite lasting I would say.

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Some pictures of my front brake. Its pretty straight forward. Just have a extension bracket to extend the caliper mounting out for bigger disc clearence to fit the 303 mm disc.







The rear offset disc made of lightweight aluminium alloy. 10mm thick. Original silver in color. This is after sprayed black together with rear brake hub and disc center.



Rear brake without the wheel blocking the view.



With the spacer on

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More images.

6 pot caliper made up of light weight titanium alloy. Even the brake pistons are lightweight.



550 degrees celcius brake pads.





2 piece brake rotor. There are 4 X 100 pcd model available, but I didnt bother to wait for the stocks to arrive, so I just drilled 4 X 100 holes and its ready to be used immediately.

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I installed rear strut bar using the 2 nuts at the wheel arch wall today. Its a rear strut bar by SUMMIT RACING originally for honda fit.



Zoomed in at the center of the bar. The bar is following the sloping of the seats. Meaning its parrellel to the seat gradient for minimal obstruction while loading shopping bags behind. Its abt 1.5 inch away from the seat. Making it as close to seat also to cause less obstruction and prevent wastage of useful baggage space. Its also near to the tissue paper board (i call it as I always put a box of tissue on it, the board with speakers on it) so that the bar do not stick in the middle of the boot wasting space.











Under Aveo Tie Bars. Direct bolt on. No modification needed. Direct bolt on.

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I installed a set of coilovers into my ride. Its 32 steps adjustable for shock hardness or softness. Its ride height adjustable and spring preload adjustable. Both front and back can be adjusted. Comes with anti roll bar linkage for the front as well.

I would say they are the best suspension setup ever for aveo. If you only install those lowering spring from Apex, H&R, Vogland,the original shock is too soft. If you installed koni shocks, they are hardness adjustable but not height and preload adjustable.

Each set should cost abt $1.2k US plus shipping.

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30cm steering wheel with customised boss kit. Mix and match 2 car's boss kit to form Aveo's boss kit.







The new leather looks better. Genuine leather compared to Aveo's fake PVC leather which cracks due to prolong exposure to sunlight and lack of constant leather creme care.



The new Momo Gear Knob. Its much bigger in diameter and feels great during shifting especially with the short shifter installed. Maybe its personal preference that I prefer thick steering wheel and thick gear knob.