Did you ever figure out that issue you had with not getting the correct tach signal?
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Did you ever figure out that issue you had with not getting the correct tach signal?
Not yet, but thats not really a problem for now, just have to tune accordingly in megatune.Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox
What is the actual issue? Do you have two signal wires, one to each coil pack? If so, I think I have an idea to fix that.
Theres 3 wires coming out the coilpack, 2 of those can be used to read rpm but each wire only picks up 1/2 of the actual engine rev.
I have the tach wire from megasquirt connected to 1 of those, so the unit only picks up 1/2 the rev, you simply have to set the parameters in megatune to compensate for that.
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Another update, the shop called today and they told me i have 8 leaking valves, so i am having them do a rebuild of the head. They said it shouldnt cost more then around 300 bux, thats not too bad, at least im gonna have a freshly rebuilt and resurfaced head ;)
When you get finished, how much more HP do you think you will have over the 1.6 with the 2.0?
You mean how much power over a stock 1.6 or a boosted one? We have never seen a boosted 1.6 on here so theres no way to tell really...
I remember when I was having the GTO built up, and the small delays come.. good luck man!!
Just a guess, I would say a 25-40hp difference with the same turbo setup/boost levels?
Alright, if you're willing to give this a shot I think it has a good chance of working. What you have in those two wires is the rpm from each individual coil pack, thus its only picking up half the ignition signals and thus reporting only half the engine's actual rpm. What you need to do is pickup signal from both coils. But, to prevent the coil signals from backfeeding into each other, you'll need to use a couple diodes. The setup is actually very simple. Here is a quick diagram. Note the line on the end of the diodes as they need to be oriented correctly or they won't work as intended.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemasys
http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1303830936
Pretty much any diode will work. I'd try to find one that handles 12 volts or more though. No need to worry about how much amperage it can handle since you're only dealing with an electrical signal, not power transmission. You can get these at your local radioshack or I can find one from an online vendor if you'd like help seleting one. They'll cost next to nothing though and shipping will be the main cost.
I tried that already, didn't work.
Since both coils fire at the same time the rpm stays the same. It actually interferes with the signal even tho you have diodes because it receives 2 signals at once.
you should be able to adjust the rpm input frequency to run the system correctly for your needs, it been a while since i worked with megasquirt, but for the sake of fuel injection, v8s are 1/2 speed of 4 cylinders, so you could "mod" the megasquirt for a v8 input tach signal speed to run the 4 injectors.. but just program accordingly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemasys
i think that could work with a lot of systems, just a matter of finding the right two wires.
The oil scavenge pump has just been ordered!
I'm also going to receive my EGR Valve gasket this week from rockauto.com
:D
Woohoo finally moving forward once again.
I just picked up the cylinder head from the shop this morning, they did an awesome job on it!
The problem was 8 leaking valves!!! So they did a complete recondition... new valve seals a good wash and a full resurface for only $374 CAD. Can't ask for better.
Got lots of pics, enjoy :)
The last pic is the best one imo hahah :toothy10:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...builtHead1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...builtHead2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...builtHead3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...builtHead4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...builtHead5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...builtHead6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...builtHead7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...builtHead8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...builtHead9.jpg
that looks nice, any idea what caused the bent valves?
Yep, putting in the 1.6L ecu into the 2.0 and driving it under boost.
I thought the 1.6 ecu only had different fuel maps, running megasquirt to control the fuel would not cause a problem, turns out the ignition timing is also different, detonation happened or something heated up alot inside the combustion chamber.
The valves were not bent, those are actually the same valves i had prior to rebuilding the head. No visible valve damage to the naked eye, it probly fried the valve seals, which is why it was leaking and losing compression.
Worked on the car today, snapped a few pics so here goes!
My uber outdoor garage... Soak up the sun as they say :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ead/Setup1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ead/Setup2.jpg
New rear brakes:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ead/Brakes.jpg
Cams and lifters, are those called lifters or pushers... The damm things that push on the valves ;)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...hread/Cams.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ad/Lifters.jpg
Engine bay with rebuilt head installed:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...d/Rebuild1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...d/Rebuild2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...d/Rebuild3.jpg
God must hate me or something...
I did a compression test after putting the major components required to perform the test back together, heres what it gave me:
Cylinder 1: 180 psi
Cylinder 2: 90 psi
Cylinder 3: 70 psi
Cylinder 4: 180 psi
It's starting to drive me crazy! After all that cash spent into the head its still having compression issues. The compression in cylinder 2 and 3 is higher then before i had the head rebuild (it used to be 60 psi and 45 psi)
The only thing it could be now is blown or damaged piston rings... I'll have to rip it appart again and im going to change the piston rings.
Bastard will not win on me... this thing will run soon enough!
I like that piece of ply-wood if that helps....
How else do you want me to jack the car in the grass? Jackstands would just sink in as soon as you put weight on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by thehunterooo
did you check the surface of the block with a metal straight edge? check the head again?
i am assuming you are going from the middle out on tightening the head bolts with the correct pattern? did you use a new head gasket? multi layer or composite?
most of the time low between 2 cylinders is a head gasket 1st.
or cracked head, or block.. (forgive me ive been drinking at my sisters wedding.)
The head is perfectly flat, so is the block, torquing sequence was peformed as it should be.
I'm pretty sure its the piston rings, i had quite alot of pressure build up in the head which would only mean alot of blow-by was happening, combustion pressure was going into the crankcase and up to into the head, when the car was running i took the oil cap off and there was a significant amount of air coming out, way more then normal.
sounds like you know the issue, maybe too much heat in the center of the block then? a good honing and total seal rings should fix it.
you could even use this as a chance to install low compression pistons, and turn up the boost.
I wish i could, but cash is getting pretty low atm, and i don't plan on running more then 8-10 psi of boost which the stock pistons/rings can handle.
I can only blame myself for putting in the 1.6L ecu, thats what blew everything up. Lesson learned!
Too bad it had to be expensive for you. Honestly man If I could spare a few bucks i'd probably send them your way right now. I want to do the same swap less the turbo, and I might have considered the same thing with the ecu. I'm going to look into using gauges out of the motor donor car, hopefully that will work better. Best of luck on getting your aveo back up to 100% again and soon.
Nah I meant that the piece of wood you use is better than mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemasys
Ohh, well it's only a 5x9 sheet of 5/8 aspenite, the kind they use for flooring houses. It's the quickest and cheapest thing i could think of lolQuote:
Originally Posted by thehunterooo
Thanks daug, im sure it will run soon enough, just need a bit more patience!Quote:
Originally Posted by daug1502
Oil scavenge pump has been shipped today, anxious to see that little thing in person!
I'll snap some pics when it gets here.
Can we turbo the standard 1.6L aveo engine? Or we have to use a different engine like you did?
Yes, you can turbo the 1.6 i don't see why it wouldn't be possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazed Aveo
I have a chance then. How much did it cost you to do the turbo work?
Nothing. I installed everything myself, only thing i had to pay for was the parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazed Aveo
no one likes the 1.6....Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazed Aveo
I really want to see someone turbo the 1.6 though, just a lot of custom work and things that go wrong, and when you have to be a pioneer like nemasys, it is not easy at all, or cheap
Its probably better to just buy a faster or more easily mod car.
i just want a faster one, I lost interest in mods and suchQuote:
Originally Posted by Crazed Aveo
nothing wrong with doing something like a 2.0 and a turbo, he does something he enjoys :D
I'm sure we could get something out of the 1.6, But no one has put in a lot of R&D on what's strong/weak and just plain good or bad about the motors. With a little R&D, (and in some cases a really big turbo) even an engine that was thought unmoddable can push out massive HP at the wheels. Look up the Tony Baker Prelude sometime. over 400WHP out of a B20A5. I have seen some one call that motor worthless to mod.
I doubt anyone will ever do it, I have been doing the aveo thing for 3-4 years, it just will not happen. Way too much work, and if it is your only car, it is impossible for someone like me to do it. I can afford it, but it is too much time, and it feels like a never ending project. No one will touch my car down here anyways.
The tranny is biggest problem, our super good ones from Japan, didn't you blow your first one up on the track nemasys?
The transmission did not blow, the dogbone transmission mount broke because of wheel hop coming off the line, that in turn broke the casing of the transmission, the internals were fine.