Did you ever figure out that issue you had with not getting the correct tach signal?
Did you ever figure out that issue you had with not getting the correct tach signal?
> 2010 Mazdaspeed 3
- Fully built, GT35R, 500+ whp
> 2004 Hatchback 2.0L Turbocharged [RETIRED]
- T3/T4 T04E .60 A/R Compressor
- HKS SSQV, OBX Wastegate
- FMIC with 2.5" piping
- Tuned with Megasquirt II v3.57
What is the actual issue? Do you have two signal wires, one to each coil pack? If so, I think I have an idea to fix that.
Theres 3 wires coming out the coilpack, 2 of those can be used to read rpm but each wire only picks up 1/2 of the actual engine rev.
I have the tach wire from megasquirt connected to 1 of those, so the unit only picks up 1/2 the rev, you simply have to set the parameters in megatune to compensate for that.
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Another update, the shop called today and they told me i have 8 leaking valves, so i am having them do a rebuild of the head. They said it shouldnt cost more then around 300 bux, thats not too bad, at least im gonna have a freshly rebuilt and resurfaced head
Last edited by Nemasys; 04-25-2011 at 10:30 PM.
> 2010 Mazdaspeed 3
- Fully built, GT35R, 500+ whp
> 2004 Hatchback 2.0L Turbocharged [RETIRED]
- T3/T4 T04E .60 A/R Compressor
- HKS SSQV, OBX Wastegate
- FMIC with 2.5" piping
- Tuned with Megasquirt II v3.57
When you get finished, how much more HP do you think you will have over the 1.6 with the 2.0?
You mean how much power over a stock 1.6 or a boosted one? We have never seen a boosted 1.6 on here so theres no way to tell really...
> 2010 Mazdaspeed 3
- Fully built, GT35R, 500+ whp
> 2004 Hatchback 2.0L Turbocharged [RETIRED]
- T3/T4 T04E .60 A/R Compressor
- HKS SSQV, OBX Wastegate
- FMIC with 2.5" piping
- Tuned with Megasquirt II v3.57
I remember when I was having the GTO built up, and the small delays come.. good luck man!!
The DD: 2011 Aveo5 LT
The Race Car: 2004 Pontiac GTO 383 Stroker
Just a guess, I would say a 25-40hp difference with the same turbo setup/boost levels?
Alright, if you're willing to give this a shot I think it has a good chance of working. What you have in those two wires is the rpm from each individual coil pack, thus its only picking up half the ignition signals and thus reporting only half the engine's actual rpm. What you need to do is pickup signal from both coils. But, to prevent the coil signals from backfeeding into each other, you'll need to use a couple diodes. The setup is actually very simple. Here is a quick diagram. Note the line on the end of the diodes as they need to be oriented correctly or they won't work as intended.
Pretty much any diode will work. I'd try to find one that handles 12 volts or more though. No need to worry about how much amperage it can handle since you're only dealing with an electrical signal, not power transmission. You can get these at your local radioshack or I can find one from an online vendor if you'd like help seleting one. They'll cost next to nothing though and shipping will be the main cost.
I tried that already, didn't work.
Since both coils fire at the same time the rpm stays the same. It actually interferes with the signal even tho you have diodes because it receives 2 signals at once.
> 2010 Mazdaspeed 3
- Fully built, GT35R, 500+ whp
> 2004 Hatchback 2.0L Turbocharged [RETIRED]
- T3/T4 T04E .60 A/R Compressor
- HKS SSQV, OBX Wastegate
- FMIC with 2.5" piping
- Tuned with Megasquirt II v3.57