So, I take it there is virtually no interest in buying an inexpensive bar that improves handling... I somehow find that hard to believe. What is the hang up here, or are you guys really not interested? Seriously, I'm looking for feedback.
I already have the 4-point bar, and i am only going down 1.5 inches, sorry.
http://www.aveoforum.com/phpBB3/view...p?f=41&t=28184
2008 Aveo5 SV
I will think of a better signature later.
I do not see the advantage in this bar to be truthful. VW has used this style of subframe since late '99 and there are very few people that run a bar because the subframe is already suitably stiff. Maybe these are thinner metal but they look to be very structural and solid.
Not saying that it isn't possible to stiffen the area. The MK3 VW's (93-99) used a similar subframe, but many people have used a bar with noticable results there. But my reason in using the post '99 VW's as an example is that the design is more similar.
the mk4 subframe design puts the cross section as part of what holds the front control arm bolt, where as the mk2-3 subframe (talking VW here) that piece is an add on. That makes it much stiffer by design.
there s also the distance from the mount to the cross section as a factor, ad rigidity by design.
this bar has been tested in a diy form and shown good results.
THats what I was saying. And the subframe on these cars seems to remind me more of the MK4 style subframe than the MK2/3.
So tell us what this is and what it is supposed to do. Is this meant to be installed on the front or rear suspension? A few decades ago (when I was younger) I installed an add-on sway bar on the rear suspension of the car I then owned. It improved the steering and handling and stiffened the suspension somewhat. However, the Aveo is the cheapest car imaginable with a very unsophisticated suspension. It rides like a truck. A Porsche it ain't, and adding a bar isn't going to make it so. I have read that the control arm bushings tend to make annoying noises and fail prematurely. Perhaps solving that deficiency would be of greater interest?
I would be interested if it was just as good as the UR 4 point bar. of course that is hard to determine, but if you could show that buying a 4 point bar for twice as much as a 2 point bar with just as much effect in the car's handling, I think you would sell alot. People would buy your bar, sell the UR bar if they had it for half the price they bought it for, all the while keeping their handling and making their money back. Just a few suggestions, and i am know sales or business man, but if you added poly bushings to replace the old ones (since the buyer would be under the car working on the control arms anyways) and created a little package deal, that may help. Kind of a "i need to replace my bushing and why not buy a 90 dollar bar with my bushings" mentality. I think its a great idea, but unfortunately as seen above, lots of people already have the UR 4 point bar, you seem to be just a bit too late; I know you need to make money, but I think the only thing you may have on your side is if you can make it dirt cheap. I would buy one (i do not have any UR products) if w/ shiping i could get it for under 100 dollars, and so would many others who may be reluctant to spend 200 on UR products.
JR
in my opinion, this bar should be better than the ur bar, as it adds a new tie in point to stiffen the chassis, than just stiffening what is already there (all that is allowed by the sanctioning ur seems to follow).