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    Thread: 2005 Aveo - Crank, no start

    1. #31
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      I snapped a few pics from some work I did on it today. I removed the cam shafts with the cam gears still attached. I might have handcuffed myself when it comes to replacing the cam seals when I go to replace them. But ill figure it out. Im sure ill be able to get the cam gears off the cam shaft without the cam shaft being in the engine. I needed to remove the cam gears in order to remove the inner timing cover. Removing the inner timing cover gives you access to the water pump which I will be replacing. Looks like now I just need to remove the alternator and the exhaust heat shield/manifold and then I can look at removing the head bolts and the head (with the air intake manifold attached). Not to mention, I still need to drain the coolant and remove the thermostat housing/pipe.

      Any thoughts and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! Sorry about the giant pictures. I dont know how to use this fourm.


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      Last edited by gearhead1; 05-25-2020 at 07:05 AM.

    2. #32
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      Did a bit more work on this over the weekend. Drained the coolant and removed the water pump, removed the exhaust manifold and removed the ignition coil pack from the head on the right side of the engine. Also removed something on the right side of the engine, not to sure what it was. Maybe some type of vacuum pump or solenoid valve. Next step will be removing the intake manifold along with the throttle cable and such. Not to sure the best way about doing this. If anyone has any tips or suggestion, Id be over the moon to hear them.

    3. #33
      2004 1.6 Auto Rust Free
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      The intake stays on when you remove the head, but there is a bracket that must be removed from underneath. It has 2 bolts that connect to the intake, and two more that connect to the block. It’s the bracket that has a sensor with tubing on it.
      Last edited by Eg.h2o; 06-16-2020 at 12:53 AM.

    4. #34
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      Quote Originally Posted by Eg.h2o View Post
      The intake stays on when you remove the head, but there is a bracket that must be removed from underneath. It has 2 bolts that connect to the intake, and two more that connect to the block. It’s the bracket that has a sensor with tubing on it.

      I left the bracket on and just removed the single 10mm bolt from the bracket to the intake. Use a long extension from underneath. This was on 2004-2007 model.

    5. #35
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      Ill take a look for the bracket. Basically it just helps hold the head to the block or does it connect the intake to the block?

      Also, for removing the throttle cable, is there anything I should know about that? Like do I need to do any calibrating for re attaching or removing it?

      And once the head is removed then I can remove the intake so I can have better access to all the components on the head?
      Last edited by gearhead1; 06-17-2020 at 04:56 AM.

    6. #36
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      Quote Originally Posted by gearhead1 View Post
      Ill take a look for the bracket. Basically it just helps hold the head to the block or does it connect the intake to the block?

      The bracket supports the intake to the block. If you don't remove that single bolt, the head won't come off with the intake attached.

      Also, for removing the throttle cable, is there anything I should know about that? Like do I need to do any calibrating for re attaching or removing it?

      No calibration needed. Just hold the throttle at wide open with your hand and there should be enough slack in the cable to remove it from the throttle body.

      And once the head is removed then I can remove the intake so I can have better access to all the components on the head?
      Yes, much easier this way. You might need a few wobble extensions to get at one or two of the lower bolts, e-torx heads.

    7. #37
      2004 1.6 Auto Rust Free
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      Quote Originally Posted by gearhead1 View Post
      Ill take a look for the bracket. Basically it just helps hold the head to the block or does it connect the intake to the block?


      And once the head is removed then I can remove the intake so I can have better access to all the components on the head?
      1)Bracket holds the intake to the block.

      2) no real need to remove the intake to work on the head unless you’re shipping it to a machine shop, or you just want it off....

      3) no recalibration needed when the throttle cable is reinstalled.

    8. #38
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      Quote Originally Posted by Eg.h2o View Post
      1)Bracket holds the intake to the block.

      2) no real need to remove the intake to work on the head unless you’re shipping it to a machine shop, or you just want it off....

      3) no recalibration needed when the throttle cable is reinstalled.


      So I removed the 2 bolts underneath that hold the air intake to block.

      Whats the sequence for reinstalling the head bolts? This way I can do it in reverse when removing the head bolts.

    9. #39
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      So the head bolts are out and ive noticed it looks like the alternator that is attached to the head. Whats the best way of going about this, will I need to remove the alternator too?

      Also, whats the best way of actually separating the head from the block. It seems to be quite stuck. Every time I move the head, the whole engine just moves. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    10. #40
      2004 1.6 Auto Rust Free
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      Quote Originally Posted by gearhead1 View Post
      So the head bolts are out and ive noticed it looks like the alternator that is attached to the head. Whats the best way of going about this, will I need to remove the alternator too?

      Also, whats the best way of actually separating the head from the block. It seems to be quite stuck. Every time I move the head, the whole engine just moves. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
      The alternator stays on, but a bracket/bolt must be removed.

      There are are pins that hold the head from shifting. Use a rubber mallet under the exhaust manifold, or under the cam pulleys. It’ll pop apart.





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