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My daily driverIt became a lot easier to diagnose this one because you said the coolant was clean and full, which eliminates a lot of possibilities. So kudos to you for supplying the necessary detail - most others don't. Glad it was a quick and inexpensive fix
It became a lot easier to diagnose this one because you said the coolant was clean and full, which eliminates a lot of possibilities. So kudos to you for supplying the necessary detail - most others don't. Glad it was a quick and inexpensive fix
I'm having the exact same problem. Running 3/4 hot while driving, AND my air-con blows warm after a few about 5 minutes. Did a coolant flush to no avail. I was ruling out the thermostat because it stuck closed and blew off last summer, so it's pretty new. I'll change it and report back.
not to get off subject, but we test this at our school.. only dino oil and old "aluminum" green coolant make gray matter or "milkshakes" as we like to call the frothing when drained. And that only happens if the heat of the blown gasket cooks them together. In fact as a class instruction, we mixed the newer "universal" coolant (green too) with both synthetic, synthetic blend oils, as well as new dino oil. Once stirred, you could not tell which was which aside from a slight browning in the dino oil from color. They all mixed scarily well, and throughout the course of the day did not separate. Which is long enough in an engine to spin a bearing. We cooked them the next day to see if they would foam or separate and the still maintained mostly undiagnosable characteristics of being mixed.Originally Posted by Scanman
Also not all oil/water failures allowing them to mix are not limited to the head gasket alone anymore. So it is even more important to check losses and additions in capacity of each system.
it helps to verify the other parts of the system are working like the OP did too.
I checked then fan of course, which is working, but I don't know of an easy way to inspect the water pump. It was replaced a few years ago.
The T-stat became the prime suspect for the OP because the coolant level in his Aveo remained the same, and also clean. If that's the case with yours as well, then definitely try a new stat. Inexpensive and easy to do for a DIYer. Only if that didn't work would you consider pulling the WP and radiator.
Right on. Our problems were very similar, it was uncanny.
My t-stat lasted almost exactly 1 year, exited warranty and failed. Nice work "Dura-Last"
Switched it out and all is right in the world.
One going bad is a fluke. Is the second one the start of a trend? Time will tell on that.
It's typical on these forums to never see a follow-up of a problem posted - happens that way most of the time.
So when a thread gets a result from the OP, plus another person posts an outcome as well, that has to deserve a
My stock t-stat lasted close to 120k miles. The replacement lasted 1 year and maybe 4k. hmm
The stat I replaced a year ago was the original, only reason I replaced it was because the plastic housing was cracked (plastic housings are junk IMO) and the new housing came with the stat. It was a house brand at O'Reilly, piece of junk. I recommend Stant if you're going to replace a Thermostat or Radiator Cap.
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