2007 Chevy Aveo STILL dies while driving....

[Rednaxela]

I have a 2007 Chevy aveo manual transmission which I inherited from my wife who is the original owner. The car randomly dies while driving, no warning, no noise, could be during idle or in 5th gear on the highway... I know that many of you feel my pain, because I've been ransacking this forum for information for months-- so I figured I'd join.
The stalling was intermittent, and for awhile I thought it was temp related, but now it dies within a minute of starting, but still starts strong without hesitation every time, after turning the key off for a minute.
I started working on it in March, back when the problem was just a nuisance, and did general maintenance: oil change, spark plugs (there was oil in there so I did the valve cover gasket too), air filter. Engine sounded great after that, but still clicked off once per 40 minutes of drive time. Next I blew a tire off the rim on a pothole in the rain taking it for a test drive and forced it home
Then I opted for the $30 fixes based on some auto zone code readings and advice from the forum: crankshaft sensor (easy), then camshaft position sensor (straightforward, but time-consuming). I detected no discernible difference, and in fact, the camshaft sensor still threw a code when I took it back to Advance Auto. The other codes were: P0601 internal module memory check sum error, P0340 (camshaft), P2105 throttle actuator control system-- forced limited power (x 2!), P 2106 throttle actuator control system-- forced engine shutdown (also x 2!), P0131 02 circuit low voltage bank 1 sensor 1, P0403 exhaust gas recirculation control circuit.
So obviously, the "not serviceable" throttle body + TPS became the $200 elephant in the room.
I didn't want to go down that road unless I had to, but then I learned that wifey had it swapped out days outside of warranty (of course) for a similar problem years ago, which gave me more than a clue.
So I took it to a farm mechanic friend from work who put his diagnostic code reader on it and gave me a big lecture about why Chevy sucks and hates the customer and the independent mechanics, etc. He agreed that the throttle body is the next logical repair, but also noticed a broken mystery resistor bolted to the frame with disconnected purple and red wire. Had to order it from Chevy ($1, think it was for daytime running lights or possibly engine cooling fan, either way it didn't solve the engine shutdown problem. At this point, the car couldn't get 1000 ft without stalling.
My $200 electronic throttle body arrived in the mail today, I swapped it out, gave wifey the honor of starting it up, and... it died within the first 30 seconds! In fact, now it's harder to get it started at all. Revving it up can't hold on to it for more than a minute either. The engine does sound GREAT for the thirty seconds it runs for though
So demoralizing-- please help!

[avguy]

The only thing that someone who's not hands-on can do is make suggestions from the list of numerous possibilities, and that's nothing more than the same guesswork you've been doing. You need to diagnose, instead of hanging on parts. Fuel pressure test, inline spark testing, and reading the OBD data stream are among the things you should be doing, instead of just guessing. If you don't want to get into that stuff, you'll need to take it to a shop which is capable of diagnosing what the actual issue is.

[xintersecty]

I would have to agree with avguy. I am sorry that you had to put with your farm mech rant. Sometimes it's not worth going to friends with strong opinions on car brands .

I would not swap parts, there has to be a change in something to cause the shutoff. It could be the parts are good but the stuff in between is the problem (hoses, lines, vacuum)

So you can check fuel (trash) lines for intermediate blockages.
Check vacuum leaks which could variable air flow flap inside the intake manifold
Check electrical for spark. I would go over the ground circuits carefully before swapping parts.

[Rednaxela]

Thanks for the quick responses Avguy and Xintersecty. As you can tell, my skills are limited, but I'm in no hurry, and I like the idea of solving my own problems. I thought i had this one based on the past episode, the codes, and process of elimination. Naturally, I flew into a rage when it failed again
I started it again today and wiggled some wires, found the port for fuel pressure test-- I think I'll follow that suggestion-- but beyond that I'm in over my head and am gonna find a shop to take it to. Also gonna get a wiring diagram from the garage at work and go from there. Thank you!
P.S. hey, ever seen the crash test video for this car? One bump in a parking lot and you'd have to learn to walk again! Haha wear your seatbelt!

[petrified.rabbit]

Those codes all do kind of suggest either o2 or throttle body, being an 07 it could be the gas pedal, but that is so unlikely forget i mentioned it.

My questions to you, how does it restart? does it restart quickly? after sitting _____ amount of time? When it starts does it need to crank for a while?

Based off the codes, I am guessing and when i say guessing i mean it as stated above. That it is either your fuel pump relay or fuel pump itself. Only because once fuel is cut to a running engine, ALL those codes could show up, if those sensor's readings don't change when you are holding the throttle, pumping the pedal, etc.

The "easy" thing to try here. swap out the fuel pump relay. I think the AC and fan are the same as the fuel pump (verify part # though ts right on top of the relay) see if anything changes.

[mitchdowning]

did this ever get fixed? i have the exact same issue, codes and all. PLEASE HELP!!!!

[Rednaxela]

did this ever get fixed? i have the exact same issue, codes and all. PLEASE HELP!!!!

The last thing I did was swap the electronic throttle body (easy, but pricey), because based on the codes, the failure (engine shutoff), and having spark and air, it must be fuel-related. Also, this part failed and was replaced once already under warranty. Swapping the part gained me nothing.

At the last stage the car just kept firing but would never start. I prevailed upon my uncle (a legitimate mechanic) to fix it, but he was stumped, so he phoned a friend with electrical expertise, and together they determined that the PCM had been on the fritz for quite some time and has now died, hence the confusing codes, and the same codes returning after fixing sensors, etc. and then, in time, no action whatsoever.

I hope that is not the case with your car, as that is a prohibitive repair. My uncle said he had heard tales of used ones being installed for high price with little success. The other option is to call Chevy and feed the greed. How does that song go? "Mama should I trust the government..."

I chose not to resuscitate. RIP otherwise mechanically reliable car. I still have it though. Good luck. Call me if you need parts lol

[MetroMPG]

Thanks for the update, Rednaxela. Sorry the fix was deemed not worth it, after all.

"The diagnosis was a success, but the patient died!"

[deadbah]

So I have an '06 Aveo with this problem. Also Manual transmission. Runs great then all of a sudden will shut of. Usually while driving but sometime while warming at cold start. Always starts right back up. I simply turn ignition all the way off for a few seconds and turn it back on and it starts right up. If i am driving i do not even pull over, just coast turn the key off and back on and boom back in business. Engine light always comes on but eventually goes off again. So if i am reading this thread correctly it was determined to be a bad PCM (or ECM whatever its called in these cars). If this is the case sounds like an easy fix. I can get a used one for fairly cheap and it just bolts on. What do you all think? Any new developments.....

[deadbah]

Just an update. Based on the other thread about this issue I bought a used ECM for $65. Switched it out and problem solved. No more complete shutdowns while driving. She is throwing a code now for a general misfire (blinking Engine Light), but seems to be running fine. I'll give her a general tune up at some point and see if that takes care of the misfire code, but otherwise I'll live with it.