It could be this causing your refrigerant to not compress right in order to cool down. I have no idea though so take it with a grain of salt lol
AIR CONDITIONING (A/C) REFRIGERANT PRESSURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the air cleaner housing bolts and the air filter housing assembly.
Release the connector lock and pull the air conditioning (A/C) pressure transducer wire connector out.
Hold the line fitting boss with one wrench and remove the A/C pressure transducer with another wrench.
Discard the O-ring seal.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
- Install the new seal on the A/C pressure transducer.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
- Install the A/C pressure transducer.
Tighten
Tighten the pressure transducer, using 2 wrenches, to 8 N.m (71 lb in) .
- Install the electrical connector.
- Install the air cleaner housing bolts and the air filter housing assembly.
Tighten
Tighten the air cleaner housing assembly retaining bolts to 12 N.m (106 lb in) .
Here is another thing you could try.
HVAC PRELIMINARY CHECKS
If you suspect a problem in the refrigerant system, inspect for the following conditions:
- Inspect the outer surfaces of the radiator and the condenser cores to be sure that the airflow is not blocked by dirt, leaves, or other foreign material. Inspect between the condenser and the radiator, as well as all outer surfaces.
- Inspect for restrictions or kinks in the condenser core, the hoses, and the tubes.
- Inspect the operation of the blower fan.
- Inspect all the air ducts for leaks or restrictions. A low airflow rate may indicate a restricted evaporator core.
- Inspect for slippage of the compressor clutch.
- Inspect the tension on the serpentine accessory drive belt.
Insufficient Cooling - Quick Check Procedure
Perform the following hand-feel procedure to get a quick idea of whether the air conditioning (A/C) system has the proper charge of Refrigerant-134a. The air temperature must be above 21°C (70°F) for most models.
- Warm up engine. Run the engine at idle.
- Open the hood and all the doors.
- Turn the A/C switch ON.
- Set the temperature control to the full cold position.
- Set the blower speed switch on 4.
- Hand-feel the temperature of the evaporator outlet pipe. The pipe should be cold.
- Inspect for other problems. Refer to HVAC Preliminary Checks.
- Leak check the system. Refer to Leak Testing. If you find a leak, discharge the system and repair the leak as required. After completing the repair, evacuate and charge the system. See: Component Tests and General Diagnostics\Leak Testing
- If there is no leak, refer to Too Hot in Vehicle. See: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures\Too Hot In Vehicle
(scroll down for too hot in vehicle)
And some more info...
LEAK TESTING
Test for leaks whenever you suspect a refrigerant leak in the system. You should also test for leaks whenever you perform a service operation which results in disturbing the lines or the connections. Leaks are commonly found at the refrigerant fittings or at the connections. Leaks are commonly caused by the following problems:
- Improper torque
- Damaged O-ring seals
- Dirt or lint on the O-ring seals
Liquid Leak Detectors
Use a liquid leak detector solution on locations such as fittings. Apply the solution to the area in question with the swab that is supplied with the solution. Look for bubbles to appear. This will indicate the existence and location of any leak.
For areas where this is not practical, such as sections of the evaporator and the condenser, an electronic leak detector is more useful.
Electronic Leak Detectors
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for calibration, operation, and maintenance of an electronic leak detector. Battery condition is especially important to the accuracy of a portable model. Set the detector to R-134a before beginning the test.
IMPORTANT: Electronic leak detectors are sensitive to windshield washing solutions, solvents and cleaners, and certain vehicle adhesives.
Surfaces must be clean to prevent false readings. Make sure that all surfaces are dry to prevent damage to the detector.
General Testing Instructions
- Follow the entire path of the refrigerant system.
- Completely circle each joint at 25-50 mm (1-2 in) per second .
- Hold the probe tip within 6 mm (0.25 in) of the surface.
- Do not block the air intake.
The audible tone changes from 1-2 clicks per second into a solid alarm if there is a leak. Adjust the balance control to maintain 1-2 clicks per second.
Test all of the following areas, even after 1 leak has been confirmed:
- Evaporator inlet and outlet
- Receiver-drier inlet and outlet
- Condenser inlet and outlet
- Brazed and welded areas
- Damaged areas
- Hose couplings
- Compressor rear head
- All fittings and joints
Testing Service Ports/Access Valves
The sealing cap is the primary seal for the service ports. This cap contains a special leak-free O-ring. Make sure that this cap is not missing or loose. Always use the correct cap.
Testing the Evaporator Core
Leaks in the evaporator core are difficult to find. Test the evaporator core using the following procedure:
- Run the blower fan at speed setting 4 for at least 15 minutes .
- Turn the blower to the OFF position.
- Wait for 10 minutes .
- Remove the blower motor resistor.
- Insert the leak detector probe as close as possible to the evaporator core. The detector will indicate a leak with a solid alarm.
- Use a flashlight to search for refrigerant oil in the core surface.
Testing the Compressor Shaft Seal
- Blow shop air behind and in front of the compressor clutch/pulley for at least 15 seconds .
- Wait 1-2 minutes .
- Probe the area in front of the pulley. If the detector emits a solid alarm, there is a leak.
Here is the Too Hot In Vehicle
There you go! I don't know if it will help you or not but i hope it will. Good luck with everything!