2011 Aveo P0014, P0017, P0106 rough idle, dies

[waltersgirl]

New owner of 2011 Aveo with just over 49k miles on it. Three codes P0014, P0017 and P0106. Idles really rough then dies. Drove fine the day before it started-over 300 miles of driving. Check engine came on during trip. Says dirty or low oil may cause P0014. Changed oil and it was VERY dirty. New filter and oil but now it won't stay running. Idle is really rough 900-2000 rpms then drops 400-1000 rpms then dies. All that is about 30 seconds. Any ideas where to go with this...and don't tell me the dealership. FYI- checked crankshaft sensor everything tested within spec. Haven't done that with camshaft sensor as that requires removing timing belt cover and I only want to go there as last resort. All three codes make me think might be something else going on. Thanks in advance for your help.

[petrified.rabbit]

I would lean toward the cam sensor, but you need to check your map sensor too..

Has it run since the oil change? the codes might not have to do with the 30 second run issue. Typically bad bad dirty oil when changed will cause issues with the oil pressure switch and kill the car intermittently. You might have that as the run issue now. And the codes are reflective of the break down before.

[2010AveoLT]

P0106 is MAP Sensor Circuit Performance; P0014 means the Exhaust Cam VVT Actuator has been Over advanced, and P0017 is that the two camshaft signals aren't synching up (the P0017 probably being Directly related to the P0014) see if you can have a reputable mechanic or someone you know with a scan tool that supports Live Data give you a readout on what the MAP Sensor, the Exhaust VVT Actuator and the Cam Position sensor are doing.

Nobody here is going to point you to the Stealership (I know from PAINFUL Experience), because a Dealership's main goal is New Car Sales; if they had their way, you would be driving off the lot in a brand new Car (or Truck) with every option box ticked, and your Aveo would be sold to some poor sap who can't afford a new car. the Service and Parts Department are only there for people who are still under the 3/36 Bumper to Bumper Warranty.

[xintersecty]

removing the cover on the cam-shaft sensor is not bad. There are three bolts holding on the top cover. I would remove the airbox to get a good side access to it. Did you check the connectors, they have come loose or corroded.

[waltersgirl]

I have a scan tool that does live data...a wonderful expensive but worth it...snap-on. Car feels like it is missing now but codes are gone and car is running. I changed one of the cam shaft position solenoid valves...hope I got all the words for the name of this part in there. Anyways it was missing the screen from the tip. Replaced it and now it at least runs and you can drive it. I just don't like how it idles. Not rough just a little vibration in the steering wheel. Is that normal? I can always take a car to a mechanic, I know several but I do more work on cars than most men I know. I prefer to learn and do it myself, sometimes I change a part unnecessarily, but at least I know more when I am finished than I did at the start and I can fix the next one that comes along. Thanks for the suggestions.

[petrified.rabbit]

if your issue was reversed, i could tell you a lot of possible things. But rough idle good runner is different. With the poor oil, I can only optimistically say your throttle body needs cleaned, if the PCV system was spewing crud from that dirty oil, the "idle circuit" could be dirty in the i throttle and choking out the smooth idle.