CODE P0014 camshaft over advanced or system performance

Have been reading this forum for a long long time decided to join today. Purchased a 2009 Aveo5 brand new off the lot and it has been a complete piece of junk since day one...fuel mileage is very poor, transmission shifting problems I think we are on our third set of new tires now and at least 5 alignments, car can stall unexpectedly, does not handle well on the road all and all just a really bad car and really poor service from GM and it's network of dealers.

Today's issue it seems is a code P0014 has anyone had any experience with this code ? I also took the car in for the recent sparkplug/boot recall and just wanted to let everyone know it did not change anything in regards to fuel mileage or performance...no changes noted with the new parts at all.

Any ideas on where to look to resolve this code, I had seen somewhere a post about a plugged oil screen on the cam actuator ?

Thanks in advance...

Ok since I was unable to get my hands on any new parts today I took a chance an removed the camshaft actuator solenoid and sure enough I found the small orange oil filters...I removed them reinstalled the actuator and the engine runs like a top and the code has not returned.

I saw no indication the filters were plugged...have always done oil changes on time and have used synthetic 5w30 in it since it had 5000KM on it....AMSOIL 5w30 signature series. I don't want to over look the obvious here, could simply removing and replacing the actuator repair the problem or are the filters which were not plugged to blame. Since removing the filters on the exhaust actuator helped I also took them off the intake one as well...magnetic oil plug a great idea at this point.
http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/attac...formance-1-jpghttp://www.aveoforum.com/forum/attac...formance-2-jpghttp://www.aveoforum.com/forum/attac...formance-3-jpghttp://www.aveoforum.com/forum/attac...formance-4-jpghttp://www.aveoforum.com/forum/attac...formance-5-jpghttp://www.aveoforum.com/forum/attac...formance-6-jpg

If anyone else has removed one of these actuators I would appreciate a screen count, both these actuators had only two orange screens on them and I can't find a photo of a new one but there is some indication there should be three orange screens on each actuator. I ordered a new one will be here in a few days.....have to wait and see it. The chev trailblazers as I understand it had issues with some of the screens being sucked into the oil galley's....based on the color of the center slot on this actuator the screen if it was suppose to be there has been missing for sometime, not clean underneath like the other two channels that had screens.

interesting, but have not done this. If that does not fix it, next step would be to check cam timing.

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Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit

interesting, but have not done this. If that does not fix it, next step would be to check cam timing.

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it did fix it for now, need to see if it remains fixed. It was dieseling before that all went away very odd I must say but I did notice in a post of yours you said runs better after an oil change (your car) well this gives that statement alot of meaning but I still don't understand the why....AMSOIL synthetic is like water if it will not go through those screens no oil will. This car has not run right since day one, I am going to recheck fuel mileage and see if this corrects the consumption.

Had to order this new actuator and wait for it to arrive. Anyone happen to know what the big letter D stands for that follows the GM part number, is it a revision the original actuator had a letter A following the part number. New one came with only two screens so I assume none are missing from the old one. I did notice the new one has different screens diff color at least no noticeable diff by eye though.

Attachment 5598

Ok I did a milage check after changing this actuator, and there is a significant increase in fuel mileage ..plus 10% and the engine doesn't seem to diesel any more like it use to. I had enough of an increase I ordered the second actuator for the intake side. This changed the entire running of the engine....I only know it did, I don't have a clue why....

Ok second actuator came I ordered a 55567050 and paid for it, waited for it to arrive, picked it up today got home opened it up and inside the box is a 12992408...hmmmm looks very different so I take a close look at the box and see the 55567050 sticker has been placed over top of the 12992408 sticker. This is the old part if I am not mistaken the one that leaked oil into the electrical connection ? Nothin gonna surprise me now ! GM Canada told me they ARE covered under powertrain warranty..they gave me a free oil change since I repaired it myself and paid for the sensor out of pocket....I am down with that, 1 for GM.

http://diagnosticnews.com/wp-content...valve-fig2.jpg

got it figured out now I do believe.....Amsoil and Aveo maybe don't belong together

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• resists degradation between oil changes, extending the time and mileage interval between oil changes DEXOS1....oddly enough mentions VVT in thier blurp

HeavyD lol how did you come up with the idea of changing this part? and do you have pics of where the other actuator is 1 more if you were to run the car without the screens what would happen and for long did you drive the Aveo without.

the engine code P0014 my exhaust camshaft was overadvanced and I could tell by ear because it was dieseling..I looked online and found the GM 2.4L had this issue as did some Saturns and I found Aveo and most of them had the same actuator....so I took it out and removed the screens as i read online to do, put it back in and it ran great (engine light went out)....one tank of fuel to confirm there was a substantial increase in MPG it was so dramatic I didn't even have to pencil it out I reset the trip each time I fuel. I could tell just by driving it huge change, it actually had some pep which it has never ever had.

It has to be somehow in part at least connected to Amsoil because the screens are clear why will it not run right with them on. Dexros1 states good for VVT, Amosil not Dexos1 approved but they say they meet the specs...IDK what I can tell you for sure is oil and oil changes can and very likely will change how the engine runs and mpg.

My wife took the Aveo on a distance trip (and shes still gone hurray), with both new actuators installed shes getting 33 MPG 90% HWY and 10%City and she is doing 110-120 KM/HR on the HWY and she has both kids and car packed full....we couldn't get 27 MPG out of it before with one passenger at 90 KM/HR all HWY cruise set, in the winter it was 20-21 MPG and it's been that way since the day we brought it home....I called our dealer after we had it for 2 months and said I would have bought a dodge 4x4 if I had of known I was going to get this kind of milage....

The other actuator is same position on the head towards the firewall...they come in and out in under 30 seconds.

I do not know what will happen if you run without the screens, what I do know is it runs way better without them. I would need to remove valve cover and run engine to see whats going on in there with and without the screens....what I can also tell you is mine diesels with the screens in and doesn't when they are out. I am going to change the oil again when she gets back see if that makes a diff....this Amsoil is not cheap be the third oil change in 4 months man oh man. If it doesn't smarten up with new oil I will try Mobile 1 again...I will keep ya posted not to worry.

This forum is great way for "people power" to effect change...I just want a car that works which is what I paid for and I didn't get it. I am just posting what I am doing/trying and the end results.......I am making a front control arm brace here will post all that when it's done.

And I have ran Mobile 1 synthetic in this car since it 5000 KM on it, and when I switched from the factory fill at 5000 KM to Mobile 1 synthetic, I did a back to back oil change just like I did with the Amsoil ...and it's been changed ever 5000KM since which is about twice as often as is required...so Amsoil not going to tell me it's from lack of previous maintenance...and I have a magnetic drain plug in it also..which catches alot of stuff, has had 4 aircleaner changes and they all looked like new and I think 3 sets of plugs 4th set in there now. Two brake system flushes, three power steering system flushes, three transmission flushes...lack of maintenance..no.no.no. I did all those myself so I know they actually did get done..trans and ps switched to Amsoil at very low KM's and been in there ever since.

Ok had a very long conversation with GM service department, there is a TSB on this subject and GM has stated in the TSB to "REMOVE" the oil screens and reinstall the actuator.

I have done this, I removed the screens from both "new actuators" I just installed and went back to a genuine GM oil filter combined with magnetic drain plug.( cant find high quality oilf filters anywhere, GM's are the best ava)

What I have learned in the process..Amsoil may or may not have had anything to do with this, BUT Amsoil is a true synthetic oil and they "CAN" create sludge when mixed with regular oils...if the Aveo engine has significant old oil left in the engine after it has been changed "pockets that don't come out with a change" this might have added to an already existing problem. When I switched to Amsoil I did back to back oil changes to reduce the chance of exactly this...what you will find however if you ever remove the exhaust camactuator...is oil comes out when you do...oil that I will bet the farm does not come out when the oil is changed "a hidden pocket".

Also a good idea to remove cam position sensors and look for a build up of metal fragments, they appear to be magnetic and collect particles. Mine both had build up stuck to them.

case closed for me anyways. +++1400 KM road test produced 6 MPG increase+++

Well had to reopen this case on account of code P0011 which is intake camshaft over advanced system performance something or other....it appears there's a problem and the knock sensor is involved. The 2009,2010,2011 Aveo LVX engine used a different knock sensor than the LXT engine and it's a new in use for the 2009 model year and appears GM went back to the 2008 sensor in the 2012 engines. I sure would like to hear from anyone else who's having this problem. Removing the oilscreens from the camshaft actuators only patched the problem for a short period of time. Symptoms are poor idle, no power, excessive fuel consumption,dieseling engine noise (sounds like a VW Rabbit) when you start it or accelerate.

I have a new knock sensor in hand will change it by chance it's defective. Looks like something's are causing the knocksensor to make timing adjsutments "that's how it appears".

Ok well this is how this has all played out in the end. The serpentine belt and tension-er began making noise which the knock sensor picked up on...this caused the PCM to make timing adjustments and created all the symptoms. I changed the serp belt and tensioner ($300.00 bucks for parts alone) and things got much better. I then replaced the knock sensor today with a new ACDelco 25182900 which is the replacement for the OEM GM96476988. The only change I see in the ACDelco knocksensor is the bolt which secures it to the engine block, it's the same size and length (I did not check the grade) but the OEM sensor bolt was not threaded the entire length of the bolt, the part of the bolt that goes through the sensor was unthreaded....the new sensor the bolt is threaded the entire length....this doesn't seem like a really big deal until you put a caliper on the two bolts and there you will see the new bolt has a smaller diameter because it's threaded the whole way, which in my opinion would make the sensor less sensitive. The head on the new bolt is also much smaller being it's an etorx and the OEM a standard 13mm...well again in my opinion reducing the mass of the bolt head, again reduces the vibration transfer. There also maybe a machining difference between the two sensors, the new one if I am not mistaken is machined flush were it bolts to the block the OEM one only part of that surface was machined creating the effect of a washer in between the block and the sensor. I wish I would have snapped a picture of the new one to be 100% certain on that detail.

Small details indeed....but this is the road I was required to take to make this car run properly. I also noted my car runs with the sensor connected to the wires but not bolted to the block..without a CEL which I really don't think it should beable to do.

All I can say is it runs better than it ever has now and I am still getting 60 more miles out of the same tank of gas than I was before.

I am going to replace the oilfilter screens on the camshaftactuators and see if it still runs like a top. GM TSB 2553245 which states remove the screens to fix the problem does not seem to be the right fix for this problem, correcting the phantom knock is the answer.

if its not bolted to the block, the sensor just doesnt feel the engine knocking..

it seems like you figured out the repair, the threads, and bolt dont matter as much as the sensor internals though. but the added material might be what makes it better.

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Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit

if its not bolted to the block, the sensor just doesnt feel the engine knocking..

it seems like you figured out the repair, the threads, and bolt dont matter as much as the sensor internals though. but the added material might be what makes it better.

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LOL well it wasn't cheap, 5 Amsoil oil changes and 4 camshaft actuators later....the car ran fine with knocksensor unbolted from the block....but had idle surge, and all kinds of issues with it bolted to the block, the trick was finding the noise it was hearing and I shot a video of that as well, I will get the kid to put it on here. Ran better when I replaced serpentine belt, ran great with power steering belt off...was a long road to the problem but it runs like a top now.

Engine light back on today...P0016 this time....so something else must be coming unglued in there now. This started with a P0014 then it set a P0011 and this is the second P0016.

How did you remove the sensor? I removed the one screw that secures it, but it won't pull out. Does anything else need to be removed internally?

Camshaft Actuator Solenoid are good, but I got zero voltage on the connectors, on either intake/exhaust, what could be the problem?
code P0014 and P0011

STEP 7 Repair the ignition 1 voltage circuit for an open/high resistance, BUT HOW?

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Originally Posted by Thymeclock

How did you remove the sensor? I removed the one screw that secures it, but it won't pull out. Does anything else need to be removed internally?

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Grab a pair of pliers or adjustable wrench and grab the metal part and wiggle it around and it'll.come.out . How did u get the screw out of the top I cannot figure it out

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