- has improved viscometric properties, creating less friction in the engine which contributes to improved fuel economy.
- resists aeration, which enables fuel-saving devices, such as Variable Valve Timing, to work optimally
- offers improved oxidation and deposit-forming tendencies allowing emission systems to operate longer and optimally
- resists degradation between oil changes, extending the time and mileage interval between oil changes DEXOS1....oddly enough mentions VVT in thier blurp
Last edited by HeavyDuty; 08-11-2012 at 09:52 AM.
HeavyD lol how did you come up with the idea of changing this part? and do you have pics of where the other actuator is 1 more if you were to run the car without the screens what would happen and for long did you drive the Aveo without.
the engine code P0014 my exhaust camshaft was overadvanced and I could tell by ear because it was dieseling..I looked online and found the GM 2.4L had this issue as did some Saturns and I found Aveo and most of them had the same actuator....so I took it out and removed the screens as i read online to do, put it back in and it ran great (engine light went out)....one tank of fuel to confirm there was a substantial increase in MPG it was so dramatic I didn't even have to pencil it out I reset the trip each time I fuel. I could tell just by driving it huge change, it actually had some pep which it has never ever had.
It has to be somehow in part at least connected to Amsoil because the screens are clear why will it not run right with them on. Dexros1 states good for VVT, Amosil not Dexos1 approved but they say they meet the specs...IDK what I can tell you for sure is oil and oil changes can and very likely will change how the engine runs and mpg.
My wife took the Aveo on a distance trip (and shes still gone hurray), with both new actuators installed shes getting 33 MPG 90% HWY and 10%City and she is doing 110-120 KM/HR on the HWY and she has both kids and car packed full....we couldn't get 27 MPG out of it before with one passenger at 90 KM/HR all HWY cruise set, in the winter it was 20-21 MPG and it's been that way since the day we brought it home....I called our dealer after we had it for 2 months and said I would have bought a dodge 4x4 if I had of known I was going to get this kind of milage....
The other actuator is same position on the head towards the firewall...they come in and out in under 30 seconds.
I do not know what will happen if you run without the screens, what I do know is it runs way better without them. I would need to remove valve cover and run engine to see whats going on in there with and without the screens....what I can also tell you is mine diesels with the screens in and doesn't when they are out. I am going to change the oil again when she gets back see if that makes a diff....this Amsoil is not cheap be the third oil change in 4 months man oh man. If it doesn't smarten up with new oil I will try Mobile 1 again...I will keep ya posted not to worry.
This forum is great way for "people power" to effect change...I just want a car that works which is what I paid for and I didn't get it. I am just posting what I am doing/trying and the end results.......I am making a front control arm brace here will post all that when it's done.
And I have ran Mobile 1 synthetic in this car since it 5000 KM on it, and when I switched from the factory fill at 5000 KM to Mobile 1 synthetic, I did a back to back oil change just like I did with the Amsoil ...and it's been changed ever 5000KM since which is about twice as often as is required...so Amsoil not going to tell me it's from lack of previous maintenance...and I have a magnetic drain plug in it also..which catches alot of stuff, has had 4 aircleaner changes and they all looked like new and I think 3 sets of plugs 4th set in there now. Two brake system flushes, three power steering system flushes, three transmission flushes...lack of maintenance..no.no.no. I did all those myself so I know they actually did get done..trans and ps switched to Amsoil at very low KM's and been in there ever since.
Last edited by HeavyDuty; 08-12-2012 at 02:44 AM.
Ok had a very long conversation with GM service department, there is a TSB on this subject and GM has stated in the TSB to "REMOVE" the oil screens and reinstall the actuator.
I have done this, I removed the screens from both "new actuators" I just installed and went back to a genuine GM oil filter combined with magnetic drain plug.( cant find high quality oilf filters anywhere, GM's are the best ava)
What I have learned in the process..Amsoil may or may not have had anything to do with this, BUT Amsoil is a true synthetic oil and they "CAN" create sludge when mixed with regular oils...if the Aveo engine has significant old oil left in the engine after it has been changed "pockets that don't come out with a change" this might have added to an already existing problem. When I switched to Amsoil I did back to back oil changes to reduce the chance of exactly this...what you will find however if you ever remove the exhaust camactuator...is oil comes out when you do...oil that I will bet the farm does not come out when the oil is changed "a hidden pocket".
Also a good idea to remove cam position sensors and look for a build up of metal fragments, they appear to be magnetic and collect particles. Mine both had build up stuck to them.
case closed for me anyways. +++1400 KM road test produced 6 MPG increase+++
Last edited by HeavyDuty; 08-24-2012 at 04:57 AM.
Well had to reopen this case on account of code P0011 which is intake camshaft over advanced system performance something or other....it appears there's a problem and the knock sensor is involved. The 2009,2010,2011 Aveo LVX engine used a different knock sensor than the LXT engine and it's a new in use for the 2009 model year and appears GM went back to the 2008 sensor in the 2012 engines. I sure would like to hear from anyone else who's having this problem. Removing the oilscreens from the camshaft actuators only patched the problem for a short period of time. Symptoms are poor idle, no power, excessive fuel consumption,dieseling engine noise (sounds like a VW Rabbit) when you start it or accelerate.
I have a new knock sensor in hand will change it by chance it's defective. Looks like something's are causing the knocksensor to make timing adjsutments "that's how it appears".
Ok well this is how this has all played out in the end. The serpentine belt and tension-er began making noise which the knock sensor picked up on...this caused the PCM to make timing adjustments and created all the symptoms. I changed the serp belt and tensioner ($300.00 bucks for parts alone) and things got much better. I then replaced the knock sensor today with a new ACDelco 25182900 which is the replacement for the OEM GM96476988. The only change I see in the ACDelco knocksensor is the bolt which secures it to the engine block, it's the same size and length (I did not check the grade) but the OEM sensor bolt was not threaded the entire length of the bolt, the part of the bolt that goes through the sensor was unthreaded....the new sensor the bolt is threaded the entire length....this doesn't seem like a really big deal until you put a caliper on the two bolts and there you will see the new bolt has a smaller diameter because it's threaded the whole way, which in my opinion would make the sensor less sensitive. The head on the new bolt is also much smaller being it's an etorx and the OEM a standard 13mm...well again in my opinion reducing the mass of the bolt head, again reduces the vibration transfer. There also maybe a machining difference between the two sensors, the new one if I am not mistaken is machined flush were it bolts to the block the OEM one only part of that surface was machined creating the effect of a washer in between the block and the sensor. I wish I would have snapped a picture of the new one to be 100% certain on that detail.
Small details indeed....but this is the road I was required to take to make this car run properly. I also noted my car runs with the sensor connected to the wires but not bolted to the block..without a CEL which I really don't think it should beable to do.
All I can say is it runs better than it ever has now and I am still getting 60 more miles out of the same tank of gas than I was before.
I am going to replace the oilfilter screens on the camshaftactuators and see if it still runs like a top. GM TSB 2553245 which states remove the screens to fix the problem does not seem to be the right fix for this problem, correcting the phantom knock is the answer.
if its not bolted to the block, the sensor just doesnt feel the engine knocking..
it seems like you figured out the repair, the threads, and bolt dont matter as much as the sensor internals though. but the added material might be what makes it better.
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
LOL well it wasn't cheap, 5 Amsoil oil changes and 4 camshaft actuators later....the car ran fine with knocksensor unbolted from the block....but had idle surge, and all kinds of issues with it bolted to the block, the trick was finding the noise it was hearing and I shot a video of that as well, I will get the kid to put it on here. Ran better when I replaced serpentine belt, ran great with power steering belt off...was a long road to the problem but it runs like a top now.
Engine light back on today...P0016 this time....so something else must be coming unglued in there now. This started with a P0014 then it set a P0011 and this is the second P0016.
Last edited by HeavyDuty; 03-14-2013 at 08:57 AM.
How did you remove the sensor? I removed the one screw that secures it, but it won't pull out. Does anything else need to be removed internally?
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