Crank but no start - tried everything!

[Adicah07]

My first time on this site and am completely new. Will try to keep everything short and to the point.

My 2007 Chevrolet Aveo overheated on the highway about a month ago resulting in a crank but no start. Had been having issues prior with the car outlined below. Had it towed to my house and have been replacing parts according to YouTube research ever since.

PREVIOUS CODE READINGS INCLUDE:
P0016 - Crankshaft Position - Intake Camshaft Position Not Plausible
P0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Performance
P0117 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor - 1 Circuit Low
P0131 - HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Sensor 1
P0133 - HO2S Slow Response Sensor 1
P0138 - HO2S Circuit High Voltage Sensor 2
P0300 - Random Misfire Detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0340 - Intake Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit
P0420 - Catalyst Converter Low Efficiency
P0563 - System Voltage High
P0700 - Transmission Control System (MIL Request)


PARTS REPLACED INCLUDE:
- All Circuits & Relays
- Alternator
- Battery (2 - One battery drained after the first week of purchase ...)
- ECM (Engine Control Module) (aka PCM (Powertrain Control Module))
- Camshaft Sensor
- Coolant Hose
- Coolant Temperature Sensor
- Crankshaft Sensor
- Fuel Injectors (4)
- Fuel Pump
- MAP Sensor
- Oil & Filter Change
- Oxygen Sensor
- Serpentine Belt
- Spark Plugs (4)
- Spark Plug Ignition Coil
- Spark Plug Wire Set (4)
- Thermostat (w/ Housing Kit)


I have tried everything and do not want to give up on the car since it could most probably be an easy fix, I do not want to buy a new car, and, I got such a good deal on this one as well as have already made the above investments.

I understand that I may have a head gasket leak, but the car should at least start with this, or am I mistaken? I have purchased a liquid head gasket sealant to pour into the radiator, but the car needs to be actively running first in order for me to use it. Also, after installing the brand new ECM (or PCM) I see on YouTube that it will need to be "reset", which, I have already followed the steps to do so (according to some videos).

At this point, it cranks a little better than before, but still no start. Also, something is still draining the battery. Have had this new battery fully recharged and have been leaving one of the terminals disconnected to prevent any drain. Thought it might be the ECM according to YouTube.

Any help would be most appreciated! And, the sooner the better, respectfully. Thanks in advance.



S.O.S.

[EAD15]

Wow, talk about loading up the parts cannon. Beyond just scanning the car and firing parts at it per youtube, what other DIAGNOSTIC steps have you taken?

Tracing the power drain can be done with patience and a multimeter. Have you done a compression check or leakdown test and, if so, were they normal? Etc

[Adicah07]

Thank you for your response. No, I have not done a compression check or leakdown test. My next step was to take the vehicle to a mechanic I know. Sent him a video of the crank no start, and he noted that it may be the timing belt, which, could also cause a crank no start.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I understand that a timing belt replacement is to be done every 50K miles or so (per YT) and I have put just over about 45K on the car since I bought it and have never done any timing belt repair. This, and perhaps the 100a Relay on the positive battery terminal which I have not yet replaced, would be the final two attempts I would have taken to fix the car before buying a new vehicle. I will ask the mechanic to perform those tests.

[EAD15]

Should have thought of the timing belt first...

If you are cranking, I doubt the relay is the problem. How many miles were on the car when you bought it and were there any records of a timing belt being changed in it's history (if it was over ~50k when you bought it).

The pre 09 model years were prone to timing system breakage as you have correctly found from your research. Although I seem to recall most timing belt related failures resulting in a partial/complete power loss instead of an overheat condition (water pump is in the timing loop).

Operating under the assumption that the water pump pulley failed and the timing belt is out of time from lack of tension I could see it causing your issues and causing several of the codes. Did you look at the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets or the condition/tension of the timing belt when you replaced the camshaft sensor?

Ultimately, if the car jumped time it will be a miracle if you don't have bent valves. A borescoping, compression, or leakdown check will likely reveal if the valves are bent