Crank No Start 04 LS Automatic

[Aveo_Feo]

Started for about 1-2 seconds then turned off. Next try started for about 1 second then turned off. 3rd attempt no start just crank. started fine this morning.

- crank sounds normal
- all fuses under hood ok
- all fuses in cabin ok
- swapped fuel pump relay with same type

Has had what seem to be electrical issues for a while:
- clock dims and doesnt hold time
- odometer LCD is missing a couple digit segments at times
- windows stop working or be very slow
- intermittent no crank aleviated by moving cable harness connected to negative battery post
- gear shifter stuck in park, need to stick something in the shifter hole for it to move from park
- constant fuse blowouts
- randomly turned off on wife and kiddo on freeway

Current codes:
P0342- camshaft position sensor circuit low voltage
P0341- camshaft position sensor performance
P035- heater performance sensor 1
P0128- coolant temperature (ect) below thermostat regulating temp


S.O.S.
Newb. Big thanks in advance gents.

[Eg.h2o]

Oh Boy, she needs some love.
if the crank speed sounds normal ish, and it starts and runs I’d first look into a low voltage problem. Most of your issues are common and unrelated. Give her some love…….

[Aveo_Feo]

Thanks for the reply, definitely needs some lovin just dont know where to apply it. Ill do a battery voltage test tomorrow with and without load.

Guess i could've been a little more clear- the car started earlier that day, a couple hours later is when it did the whole crank no start deal. So it doesn't turn on...or wasn't turning on because...

this morning it started up just fine on first try?...wife says she notices that sometimes it wont start when its cold out then starts up after the day warms up. Not sure what components would be affected that much by the ambient temperature?...It was raining the morning of this current no start issue, cleared up and was sunny the next day when it started just fine. Pretty random.

[Eg.h2o]

P0128 shows low temp. It’s possible the engine coolant temp sensor may be reading a high temp, which would cause a no start when it is colder outside. Just a possibility. Also, plugs, wires may be due. Check for vacuum leaks, etc. a good once over at a reputable repair shop could be money well spent.

[crtrett]

Is your oil pressure warning light functioning? I had your issue, had a guy come out with all his laptops and found nothing, suggested replacing coils and wires which did nothing. Towed it to two shops, the first refused to honor they're estimate for diagnosis the next couldn't figure it out. I noticed the oil pressure warning light wasn't working so I eventually found that I had not oil pressure. Why the warning light didn't work? Put an oil pump in (pain in the neck) and she fired right up! The ECM has a fail safe the shuts down everything including the warning light which started working immediately.

[Aveo_Feo]

Thanks EG.h2o. Plugs/ wires are good. Vacuum check is next.

[Aveo_Feo]

Yes, oil pressure light is on when key is turned as usual. Thought I found the issue when I noticed the throttle body air intake hose had 2 huge rips. Replaced it but engine still wont turn on. I am having trouble hearing the fuel pump when I turn the key to ON. Had my ear to the gas cap area while wife turned the key but cant hear it, maybe that's the problem? I know it's not fuel pump relay as i swapped them out already...Would the car start once a day like it does if the pump is out...is the there another way of checking if the fuel pump is out?

[Aveo_Feo]

==>UPDATE
About an hour after changing out the throttle body air intake hose I went out and swapped the 15A fuel fuse and the freakin car started up. The fuse wasn't blown though??? (confirmed it was good with a fuse tester)... Was able to turn it off and on multiple times. I can now hear the fuel pump prime when turning key to on confirming I was definitely not hearing it before meaning pump was not turning on before. Maybe pump is starting to go out...Now has the following codes:
P0107- MAP sensor circuit low voltage
P0135- Heater performance sensor 1
P0128- Engine coolant temp below thermostat regulating temp
P0700- Transmission control module requested MIL illumination
P1781- Engine torque signal circuit
P0342- Camshaft position sensor circuit low voltage
P0341- Camshaft position sensor performance

Sheesh...erased codes took it for a spin, will update.

[Adicah07]

My first time on this site and am completely new. Will try to keep everything short and to the point.

My 2007 Chevrolet Aveo overheated on the highway about a month ago resulting in a crank but no start. Had been having issues prior with the car outlined below. Had it towed to my house and have been replacing parts according to YouTube research ever since.

PREVIOUS CODE READINGS INCLUDE:
P0016 - Crankshaft Position - Intake Camshaft Position Not Plausible
P0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Performance
P0117 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor - 1 Circuit Low
P0131 - HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Sensor 1
P0133 - HO2S Slow Response Sensor 1
P0138 - HO2S Circuit High Voltage Sensor 2
P0300 - Random Misfire Detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0340 - Intake Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit
P0420 - Catalyst Converter Low Efficiency
P0563 - System Voltage High
P0700 - Transmission Control System (MIL Request)


PARTS REPLACED INCLUDE:
- All Circuits & Relays
- Alternator
- Battery (2 - One battery drained after the first week of purchase ...)
- ECM (Engine Control Module) (aka PCM (Powertrain Control Module))
- Camshaft Sensor
- Coolant Hose
- Coolant Temperature Sensor
- Crankshaft Sensor
- Fuel Injectors (4)
- Fuel Pump
- MAP Sensor
- Oil & Filter Change
- Oxygen Sensor
- Serpentine Belt
- Spark Plugs (4)
- Spark Plug Ignition Coil
- Spark Plug Wire Set (4)
- Thermostat (w/ Housing Kit)


I have tried everything and do not want to give up on the car since it could most probably be an easy fix, I do not want to buy a new car, and, I got such a good deal on this one as well as have already made the above investments.

I understand that I may have a head gasket leak, but the car should at least start with this, or am I mistaken? I have purchased a liquid head gasket sealant to pour into the radiator, but the car needs to be actively running first in order for me to use it. Also, after installing the brand new ECM (or PCM) I see on YouTube that it will need to be "reset", which, I have already followed the steps to do so (according to some videos).

At this point, it cranks a little better than before, but still no start. Also, something is still draining the battery. Have had this new battery fully recharged and have been leaving one of the terminals disconnected to prevent any drain. Thought it might be the ECM according to YouTube.

Any help would be most appreciated! And, the sooner the better, respectfully. Thanks in advance.



S.O.S.