In Dash EMS 1/2 Fuses

Hello all,

For the past few days I've been experiencing an issue with all four EMS fuses (2 in dash/2 in engine bay). They've all been constantly blowing but the in dash EMS 2 has blown more often. Both in dash fuses have blown more than the engine bay ones. The car is now blowing the 10A in dash EMS 2 fuse as soon as I try to start the car. What do you folks think the problem could be? Although from what I can tell, this is a fuse for the stop lamp switch, the transmission seems to lock in third gear when this fuse trips. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Is your battery in good shape? Did you examine the wiring and look for shorts? Or maybe a connector with water in it? I suggest get a multi-meter and start checking wiring for shorts to ground.

Battery is fine. There is nothing frayed immediately noticeable. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear to be something too obvious.

Found this helpful video on how to use a muti-meter. Go to your local radio shack and buy one. Heck considering they just got busted it might be on sale.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5FJDgcdii8

I need to ask do you have brake lights. Are they out when the fuse blows. Ive had this issue before and it took me fifty fuses to figure out the problem. Mine kept blowing the fuse keep it stuck in park and would have to use the shift lock release button to get it out of park into gear and able to drive. This only applies if you have no brake lights and its getting stuck in park and you have to use the shiftlock release to be able to drive and then you have no brake lights. If this is similiar let me know i found one of the craziest things ive ever experienced and found the problem and fixed it.

At least one of the break lights was not working (driver's side).

I took it into a shop and they are telling me it appears to be a rather large short somewhere along the firewall. :mad: Have any of you folks experienced this? Sounds like they are having a lot of trouble finding the problem.

You can take the driver side fender off the car and trace the wiring back into the firewall. It could have rubbed and caused a short there.

I finally got a diagnosis from the dealer yesterday. They ended up removing the dash (or at least part of it). Turns out some wires began to rub against the firewall. This caused some melting and eventually several shorts. On top of that, they found one of the cylinders was misfiring due to a wire grounding out before the cylinder as well. All said and done, the repair will be a little over $500 >:(

Has anyone else here gone through something like this? Just doesn't make sense to me being that the car is not that old. 2010 with ~65K mi.