Engine enigma/problem (stalled on highway, won't start, codes p0300 & p0327)

HI folks first post.
My wife was driving at highway speed and the engine in my 2005 aveo with e-tec II lost power and died. She claimed a slapping sound and a rough idle prior to the engine dying.

Here is the skinny, my number 3 cylinder spark plug wire and plug is covered in oil sludge yet the oil I drained out of the oil pan was pretty clear causing a WTF reaction.
It made a sluggish sound while cranking at first but now it cranks fine and the timing chain appears to be intact and in reasonable shape. The plug shows no signs of being impacted by debris and it cranks well.

Opinions, laughs, fingerpointing, whatever help appreciated.

there is no timing chain, unless you meant the timing belt, idk though

Yes, belt. thanks

this could be a lot of things, the oily plug and wire suggested valve cover seal is leaking not a cylinder condition.. But that could still foul out he cylinder. Does it run now? i would run on 3 cylinders, poorly, but run.
/
What about the other plugs? positive the timing belt is ok? What kind of slap sound? like a bitch slap or pimp slap or even a playful slap on the ass as foreplay?

things that would make it stall on the highway could be o2, fuel pump, loss of spark, etc..

Not sure I can help, but ... was the sludge outside the cylinder, or inside on the plug electrode? If inside, did you compare it to the other plugs?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit

this could be a lot of things, the oily plug and wire suggested valve cover seal is leaking not a cylinder condition.. But that could still foul out he cylinder. Does it run now? i would run on 3 cylinders, poorly, but run.
/
What about the other plugs? positive the timing belt is ok? What kind of slap sound? like a bitch slap or pimp slap or even a playful slap on the ass as foreplay?

things that would make it stall on the highway could be o2, fuel pump, loss of spark, etc..

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The plug was completely covered top to bottom is sludge and the car will not start for me.
The slap sound was described more like a solid tap on Salma Hayek in tight denim. lol

MEtroMPG, Both the top and bottom of the plugs are covered in oil along with the plug wire connector. The number 2,3 and 4 cylinder spark plugs are also covered with oil.
I am receiving codes p0300 and p0327
I hope this does not indicate cylinder or valve damage.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by deligo

I am receiving codes p0300 and p0327

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Service Manual2006 Kalos Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0300

p0327 is on that page as well

Quote:

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Originally Posted by deligo

The slap sound was described more like a solid tap on Salma Hayek in tight denim. lol

I am receiving codes p0300 and p0327

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Is that description coming straight from your wife? it would have helped if you posted a picture.

I think your engine was knocking (pinging, detonating, etc) or thought it was until it adjusted itself out of time.
So I would check your knock sensor, (you the link if you are able to follow the steps), otherwise try unplugging it? (crude but might work).

I honestly think the spark plugs may not be related, whats your mileage and when were they changes last?

Thank you for the link MEtroMPG, awesome.
I will dig through the manual link posted and try to come up with the correct juju.

The description from "she who must not be named" was a "flat tire sound" The spark plugs and wires were switched about 5000 miles ago and were in pretty good shape prior to the car taking a dump on the wifey.

Well, I got the upper timing belt cover removed and the timing belt looks to be in surprisingly good condition but the bad news is there are chunks of plastic timing gear idler pulley sprinkled in the compartment. bummer.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...4Award0184.jpg
looking down in to the timing belt compartment from the top

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...4Award0185.jpg
A view of the broken pulley, there should be a plastic part between the belt and the pulley

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...4Award0186.jpg
This is the bottom of the engine between the crank shaft pulley and the oil pan. What is up with the large crack?

The timing belt does not show any chew marks or scraping so I might be really stinking lucky, I will post more as I delve deeper in to the dark recesses of my aveo. wish me luck.

crack is probably stress from some of the idler pulley going under the crank pulley.. no room.

how many miles did you have? this sounds like a typical timing belt failure now.. youll probably need to check valves since that was most likely the slap.

crap, I was worried about that.
The car has about 75,000 miles but I bought it at around 60,000.
The timing belt has no cracks that are obvious and the only wear on it looks like where it rubbed up against the broken parts of the idler pulley. I have a suspicion whoever changed the timing belt did not replace the other high wear parts at that time.
I will proceed to pull the engine upper off and then go from there.

thanks for the help so far. appreciated.

are you sure it was changed?

timing belt failures are tensioners as much as belts..

As sure as I can be without paperwork proving it. The bolt heads were marred a bit from wrenching prior to me touching them and the timing belt looks nearly new.

Any suggestions for breaking the cylinder head loose from the block?
I got all the bolts off the head and the bolt out of the alternator support along with the exhaust manifold removed and all the hoses and sensors, is there a good spot to carefully pry them apart?

Finally broke it loose, my engine block has two little metal studs sticking up from the lower bloc half to help align the cylinder head and those were locking it in place, I gently tapped back and forth for a while with a large rubber mallet on the side of the head and it worked it's way loose.
Here is some photos of the pistons and valves, it's hard to tell if it is damaged.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...ec20100040.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...ec20100039.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...ec20100035.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...ec20100034.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...ec20100031.jpg

that head still has the cams in it huh?

i cant say 100% because im only looking at a picture but it looks like 3 cylinders have an exhaust valve open, and only one has 2.. = bent valves.. (only on cylinder should be open, one closing and both valves should be = )

if your trying to do it yourself, turn the cams and try slipping a piece of paper under them when they are closed.. tdc for each cylinder will "snap" into place sort of.. or try air around the valve and feel for it on the manifold side.. but i would have the head checked.

I took the head down to the chevy dealer and sure enough the valves are as crooked as a barrel of snakes. lol
I am sure that means cylinders are damaged as well.
Looks like I will be doing an engine swap.

I am glad this post exists.
http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f103/...epaired-10191/

those cylinders are fine.. with bent valves, if the valve isnt missing pieces, and the top of the piston isnt chewed up. the bottom end is fine.. Daox you can see had more damage. I personally would either rebuild that head (not at the dealer too much $$) or buy a used or reman off ebay at napa or something.

they have some nice heads on ebay shipped to your door for $450

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Originally Posted by thehunterooo

they have some nice heads on ebay shipped to your door for $450

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Hell of a lot easier to change a head than a whole engine I'd say! and cheaper too.