crack is probably stress from some of the idler pulley going under the crank pulley.. no room.
how many miles did you have? this sounds like a typical timing belt failure now.. youll probably need to check valves since that was most likely the slap.
crack is probably stress from some of the idler pulley going under the crank pulley.. no room.
how many miles did you have? this sounds like a typical timing belt failure now.. youll probably need to check valves since that was most likely the slap.
crap, I was worried about that.
The car has about 75,000 miles but I bought it at around 60,000.
The timing belt has no cracks that are obvious and the only wear on it looks like where it rubbed up against the broken parts of the idler pulley. I have a suspicion whoever changed the timing belt did not replace the other high wear parts at that time.
I will proceed to pull the engine upper off and then go from there.
thanks for the help so far. appreciated.
are you sure it was changed?
timing belt failures are tensioners as much as belts..
As sure as I can be without paperwork proving it. The bolt heads were marred a bit from wrenching prior to me touching them and the timing belt looks nearly new.
Any suggestions for breaking the cylinder head loose from the block?
I got all the bolts off the head and the bolt out of the alternator support along with the exhaust manifold removed and all the hoses and sensors, is there a good spot to carefully pry them apart?
Finally broke it loose, my engine block has two little metal studs sticking up from the lower bloc half to help align the cylinder head and those were locking it in place, I gently tapped back and forth for a while with a large rubber mallet on the side of the head and it worked it's way loose.
Here is some photos of the pistons and valves, it's hard to tell if it is damaged.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...ec20100040.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...ec20100039.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...ec20100035.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...ec20100034.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...ec20100031.jpg
that head still has the cams in it huh?
i cant say 100% because im only looking at a picture but it looks like 3 cylinders have an exhaust valve open, and only one has 2.. = bent valves.. (only on cylinder should be open, one closing and both valves should be = )
if your trying to do it yourself, turn the cams and try slipping a piece of paper under them when they are closed.. tdc for each cylinder will "snap" into place sort of.. or try air around the valve and feel for it on the manifold side.. but i would have the head checked.
I took the head down to the chevy dealer and sure enough the valves are as crooked as a barrel of snakes. lol
I am sure that means cylinders are damaged as well.
Looks like I will be doing an engine swap.
I am glad this post exists.
http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f103/...epaired-10191/
those cylinders are fine.. with bent valves, if the valve isnt missing pieces, and the top of the piston isnt chewed up. the bottom end is fine.. Daox you can see had more damage. I personally would either rebuild that head (not at the dealer too much $$) or buy a used or reman off ebay at napa or something.
they have some nice heads on ebay shipped to your door for $450
Hell of a lot easier to change a head than a whole engine I'd say! and cheaper too.Quote:
Originally Posted by thehunterooo