Ever had to change the heater hose?!?

Wow. I've got a leak in my heater hose (hose going from the block into the heater core). I've spent the better part of 5 hours trying to get the friggin hose clamp off the block end! WTF is up with the way this thing is laid out? It's almost dead center on the rear of the engine, under the entire manifold, above the transmission, and has some metal (or maybe hardened plastic) pipe running right across behind it where you need to get a tool in there.

Can't work above it, can't work below it, can't get a tool all the way in to get the clamp off. The best I've done is to get a stubby set of needlenose pliers on there and was able to squeeze the clamp, but because they were stubby I couldn't get enough leverage to get the clamp off!

Looks like my wife is going to miss school and work tomorrow because of this... and I may have to pay a shop to fix it. Unbelievable! This should have been a 10 minute fix.

edit - sorry should have posted that it's a 2005 LT automatic

probably need an actual hose clamp tool? if its spring loaded like i imagine, and your not reusing the hose obviously just pull the hose hard (unless its on a plastic pipe) it will pop, or even cut the clamp. a very small hand holdable hack saw blade comes in handy, i have a sawzall blade with duct tape making a handle..

go luck.

Actually I did get a clamp tool. It does have a racheting piece that locks it closed, but I can't get the tool onto the clamp. Can't open it far enough because of the pipe and manifold, can't see where I'm putting the tool either. Can only get one hand on he hose so I haven't been able to yank it off by brute force. It's pretty ridiculous... I'm stumped and screwed if I can't get this fixed in the next 2 hours or so........

where is it leaking? cut it somewhere you can see and put an extension piece in it?

Leaking right against the block......I could only feel it, can't see it........

OK, need some more help. Got the hose replaced. PCV valve broke in half, so I had to pick up a new one at the dealer. Took the valve cover off, fought with the broken threads that were stuck in it, and got them out. (spun it forward a tiny bit with a 1/2" drill bit, then jammed a knife in there and backed it out). Replaced everything.

Took the car for a drive. No more leak! But now my oil light came on. That has never come on before. Also the valves are tapping pretty bad. This car does that all the time, but it seems consitently loud right now, and I'm a bit scared. The light flickered at first, then stayed on. Then after I stopped and started it it seems like it would come on at idle and when the RPMs evened out, but would go out under acceleration. There is definitely oil in there, but I need to let it sit for a few minutes to try and take an accurate reading.

Two questions:

1 - what is the tiny little "nipple" that is sticking out of the valve cover right next to the PCV valve? I swear I don't remember taking anything off of there (and I've had the valve cover off 3 times now and never remember a hose being there) but it looks a little too "clean" to have not been covered up with something. It doesn't feel like there is air coming out of it or a vacuum, but it may be too little for me to feel at idle for all I know.

2 - what would cause the oil light to come on after doing the work I did? is it possible the sensor got damaged by the water/coolant dumping onto it?

Your help is GREATLY appreciated. :)

I don't remember where it goes, but I know the nipple you're talking about. On the bottom valve cover (from my 05 engine), its just to the left of the PCV valve. Perhaps someone can go look at their engine for jimstolz76. I would but I'm at work and my car isn't.

http://aveoclub.net/pictures/aveo057.JPG

the oil sensor is on the back of the block need the pulleys, just under the water pump. check to make sure you didnt damage it or the wiring.. if you have worse valve tapping now, is it possible you overheated? or is it just more pronounced beacuse the noise comes out that nipple now?

i wish i could help you with the nipple, but i have an ecotec. looks like a vacuum line to intake though..

I got a pic for ya. It just goes to a port on the intake manifold.

http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/attac...1&d=1289432558

How the hell would I have missed that???

I'm worried that I screwed the engine last night. The sound got better and I ended up driving around to test it out. The light came on, went out, stayed out, so after a while I decided to test it on the highway. Not long after that I started getting some VERY bad sounds...very bad... so I nursed it at the lowest RPMs I could maintain and dropped it off at a friend's house.

Any idea what that hose might do? Any chance it is to create pressure inside the valve cover? There didn't seem to be any air coming out of the nipple, so maybe that's it?? I hope???? :)

On a serious note, how much does a rebuild or engine swap usually run? I need to be prepared for the worst...

Thanks a TON for the pics!

OK so get this... I don't have that hose..... there is a solid plug where that hose would go. So there was never a hose there...

Your pic:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_s5dIzKL6pT8/TN.../aveo20001.jpg



My pic:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_s5dIzKL6pT8/TN...0/IMAG0008.jpg

did you buy your car used?

maybe that was capped as a vacuum leak issue, and the lack of the hose off the valve cover is why you've always had the noisy lifters..?

any car would have noisy lifter if you take the oil cap off, that open hose connection would do the same thing..

nope bought it new

it's a 2005, not sure if that makes a difference. I found a video of a guy doing a valve cover gasket change and after he pulls the top cover (not the valve cover, but the thing that says "16V blah blah" on it) you can see the nipple sticking out with nothing attached to it.

Look 1:04 in.
YouTube - Subachad's Aveo Valve Cover Gasket Install

maybe its cast into the plastic, but not drilled out unless it is used..? the engine covers global needs, might be an emissions requirement elsewhere and not for your year?

I also thought it was odd to have an open hose into the valve cover right next to the pcv valve. It effectively negates the check valve ability of the pcv valve.

BTW, my hose isn't oem. When I got my car the head was off of it.

Have you checked the vacuum diagram on the underside of the hood?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jimstolz76

OK so get this... I don't have that hose..... there is a solid plug where that hose would go. So there was never a hose there...

My pic:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_s5dIzKL6pT8/TN...0/IMAG0008.jpg

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This is exactly what my problem is. Mine looks like yours too. Mine also makes a whining sound and goes away when I pull the dipstick out. If I got a hose to connect those 2 (like his), would that fix my problem?
if so, why are ours like that?
Also, where can I get that exact hose? Ive searched and cant find it. maybe I just dont know what to call it...

5 year resurrection! I need help lmao

I replaced mine at 98k when I had the intake manifold off--also replaced the two cooling pipes on the side of the block. What a PITA--almost had broken pieces of pipe within the two engine cooling ports but luckily the bits and pieces were right there for me to use plyers to grab. There was also dried up oil (probably from PO's valve cover gasket leak) I could not get out, which ate through and disintegrated the ends of the pipe. I ended up honing the two ports carefully and that created a nice smooth and clean surface for the double O-rings to work their magic.

I just did the job of replacing a heater hose this weekend. I only replaced the one heater hose as the other looked good. The other is not in the hostile zone near the block (in my option). I had to cut the old out. The clamps were tough to get to as earlier posters mention too. As for the old hose, the side of the hose near the engine looked brittle. The side near the firewall looked okay.

I replaced the hose from underneath. After moving the fuel injection support bracket out of the way and then removing the starter, it was very straightforward. Not a whole lot of room, but do'able. No leak now.

No direct fill for antifreeze as there is no radiator cap. I seemed to have to fill it up, drive it and fill it again. The radiator drain too was weird; a 1/2" 6-point was needed; a 13mm slipped on that plastic plug. It was NOT 12mm; that was too small. .

Chuck

I just ran into this same problem today. I came to the forum for answers but I couldn't find a great one. Nobody really had any "tips." I figured I'd share how I removed and replaced this hose.

My 2004 five speed started leaking from a pinhole in the heater hose (the one stemming from the center of the block). I pressure tested the system to locate the leak, and then began biting my nails, worrying that I'd have to remove the intake manifold and a whole bunch of other things just to replace a stinking hose. But with a little redneck ingenuity I was able to pull it off with only removing one part. Here goes:

Get underneath the car, put it up high on jack stands.
Remove the starter assembly (two long bolts on the starter itself (10mm), and three nuts to the wires (2x12mm, 1x13mm). The starter should basically fall out.
Once you have the starter removed, you should be able to see straight up to where the hose connects to the outlet on the block. In my case, the prongs for the squeeze clamp were facing the wrong direction (upward toward the hood). This was problematic because the intake manifold braces are tunnel-like and C-shaped, and the hose goes right into one of these "tunnels." There is no room to get pliers or a tool on that clamp. This is when I got creative.. I took a length of wire, and doubled it over, and looped it up over BOTH prongs of the squeeze clamp. The wire was long enough to where I could wrap my hands in it (wear gloves) and heave-ho until the clamp rotated enough to where I could fish a pair of water pump pliers up there and back the clamp off of the outlet. The clamp on the firewall is easy to get to and remove.

When putting the new hose back on, I lubed it up and put a screw clamp on it, facing DOWN. I put a socket on the screw and used every extension I had, which made it easy to tighten the clamp using a ratchet from below the car. Note that the new hose was a length of standard heater hose from autozone and it was STRAIGHT, without the unnecessary bends that the stock ones have for some reason. I put a squeeze clamp on the firewall end of the new hose, pressure tested the system, and reinstalled the starter.

Filled it up with coolant, ran the engine and cycled the heater until it reached operating temperature. No runs, no drips, no errors.

Hope this helps you guys in the future!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlueBird94

I just ran into this same problem today. I came to the forum for answers but I couldn't find a great one. Nobody really had any "tips." I figured I'd share how I removed and replaced this hose.

My 2004 five speed started leaking from a pinhole in the heater hose (the one stemming from the center of the block). I pressure tested the system to locate the leak, and then began biting my nails, worrying that I'd have to remove the intake manifold and a whole bunch of other things just to replace a stinking hose. But with a little redneck ingenuity I was able to pull it off with only removing one part. Here goes:

Get underneath the car, put it up high on jack stands.
Remove the starter assembly (two long bolts on the starter itself (10mm), and three nuts to the wires (2x12mm, 1x13mm). The starter should basically fall out.
Once you have the starter removed, you should be able to see straight up to where the hose connects to the outlet on the block. In my case, the prongs for the squeeze clamp were facing the wrong direction (upward toward the hood). This was problematic because the intake manifold braces are tunnel-like and C-shaped, and the hose goes right into one of these "tunnels." There is no room to get pliers or a tool on that clamp. This is when I got creative.. I took a length of wire, and doubled it over, and looped it up over BOTH prongs of the squeeze clamp. The wire was long enough to where I could wrap my hands in it (wear gloves) and heave-ho until the clamp rotated enough to where I could fish a pair of water pump pliers up there and back the clamp off of the outlet. The clamp on the firewall is easy to get to and remove.

When putting the new hose back on, I lubed it up and put a screw clamp on it, facing DOWN. I put a socket on the screw and used every extension I had, which made it easy to tighten the clamp using a ratchet from below the car. Note that the new hose was a length of standard heater hose from autozone and it was STRAIGHT, without the unnecessary bends that the stock ones have for some reason. I put a squeeze clamp on the firewall end of the new hose, pressure tested the system, and reinstalled the starter.

Filled it up with coolant, ran the engine and cycled the heater until it reached operating temperature. No runs, no drips, no errors.

Hope this helps you guys in the future!!!

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Thanks for this!
I had recently replaced the radiator/tank and a couple of front hoses. I believe the increased pressure is now showing up the older weaker hoses. Seeing a very small leakage now from the clamp on the heater core pipe!!
As I saw it last night and thought how on earth do I get to that!! OMG..

I'll have a look from underneath as suggested

It's been 5 years since I have done my aveo's heater hose replace, but from what I recall.. do what BlueBird94 says, including pulling the starter.

chuck

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steelerdude99

It's been 5 years since I have done my aveo's heater hose replace, but from what I recall.. do what BlueBird94 says, including pulling the starter.

chuck

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Is it worth getting one of these special pliers?
Took me forever to remove the small hose from underneath the throttle body to the thermostat the other day.
I can foresee myself having issues with the other hoses underneath.
Do they work well?
https://http2.mlstatic.com/D_NQ_NP_2..._022020-F.webp

Dealing with a heater hose leak on your 2005 LT automatic can be frustrating due to its challenging location. Try using flexible hose clamp pliers, which have a cable and remote handle for better access. If space is still limited, consider partially removing nearby components or using a mirror for better visibility. Lubricating the clamp with penetrating oil may ease removal. Patience and ingenuity are key in tight spaces. If all else fails, seeking professional help is reasonable, ensuring a proper fix without further complications. Vehicle repairs can be tricky; sometimes, expert assistance is the most efficient solution.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlueBird94

I just ran into this same problem today. I came to the forum for answers but I couldn't find a great one. Nobody really had any "tips." I figured I'd share how I removed and replaced this hose.

My 2004 five speed started leaking from a pinhole in the heater hose (the one stemming from the center of the block). I pressure tested the system to locate the leak, and then began biting my nails, worrying that I'd have to remove the intake manifold and a whole bunch of other things just to replace a stinking hose. But with a little redneck ingenuity I was able to pull it off with only removing one part. Here goes:

Get underneath the car, put it up high on jack stands.
Remove the starter assembly (two long bolts on the starter itself (10mm), and three nuts to the wires (2x12mm, 1x13mm). The starter should basically fall out.
Once you have the starter removed, you should be able to see straight up to where the hose connects to the outlet on the block. In my case, the prongs for the squeeze clamp were facing the wrong direction (upward toward the hood). This was problematic because the intake manifold braces are tunnel-like and C-shaped, and the hose goes right into one of these "tunnels." There is no room to get pliers or a tool on that clamp. This is when I got creative.. I took a length of wire, and doubled it over, and looped it up over BOTH prongs of the squeeze clamp. The wire was long enough to where I could wrap my hands in it (wear gloves) and heave-ho until the clamp rotated enough to where I could fish a pair of water pump pliers up there and back the clamp off of the outlet. The clamp on the firewall is easy to get to and remove.

When putting the new hose back on, I lubed it up and put a screw clamp on it, facing DOWN. I put a socket on the screw and used every extension I had, which made it easy to tighten the clamp using a ratchet from below the car. Note that the new hose was a length of standard heater hose from autozone and it was STRAIGHT, without the unnecessary bends that the stock ones have for some reason. I put a squeeze clamp on the firewall end of the new hose, pressure tested the system, and reinstalled the starter.

Filled it up with coolant, ran the engine and cycled the heater until it reached operating temperature. No runs, no drips, no errors.

Hope this helps you guys in the future!!!

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I attempted to do this today, but I ran into problems and aborted till I can get a mechanic buddy of mine to help. I'm getting too old for this....

plug it until you have more time, hoseclamp tool a must, I plan on getting one soon for my toolbox....I hope..