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OK so get this... I don't have that hose..... there is a solid plug where that hose would go. So there was never a hose there...
Your pic:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_s5dIzKL6pT8/TN.../aveo20001.jpg
My pic:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_s5dIzKL6pT8/TN...0/IMAG0008.jpg
did you buy your car used?
maybe that was capped as a vacuum leak issue, and the lack of the hose off the valve cover is why you've always had the noisy lifters..?
any car would have noisy lifter if you take the oil cap off, that open hose connection would do the same thing..
nope bought it new
it's a 2005, not sure if that makes a difference. I found a video of a guy doing a valve cover gasket change and after he pulls the top cover (not the valve cover, but the thing that says "16V blah blah" on it) you can see the nipple sticking out with nothing attached to it.
Look 1:04 in.
YouTube - Subachad's Aveo Valve Cover Gasket Install
maybe its cast into the plastic, but not drilled out unless it is used..? the engine covers global needs, might be an emissions requirement elsewhere and not for your year?
I also thought it was odd to have an open hose into the valve cover right next to the pcv valve. It effectively negates the check valve ability of the pcv valve.
BTW, my hose isn't oem. When I got my car the head was off of it.
Have you checked the vacuum diagram on the underside of the hood?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimstolz76
This is exactly what my problem is. Mine looks like yours too. Mine also makes a whining sound and goes away when I pull the dipstick out. If I got a hose to connect those 2 (like his), would that fix my problem?
if so, why are ours like that?
Also, where can I get that exact hose? Ive searched and cant find it. maybe I just dont know what to call it...
5 year resurrection! I need help lmao
I replaced mine at 98k when I had the intake manifold off--also replaced the two cooling pipes on the side of the block. What a PITA--almost had broken pieces of pipe within the two engine cooling ports but luckily the bits and pieces were right there for me to use plyers to grab. There was also dried up oil (probably from PO's valve cover gasket leak) I could not get out, which ate through and disintegrated the ends of the pipe. I ended up honing the two ports carefully and that created a nice smooth and clean surface for the double O-rings to work their magic.
I just did the job of replacing a heater hose this weekend. I only replaced the one heater hose as the other looked good. The other is not in the hostile zone near the block (in my option). I had to cut the old out. The clamps were tough to get to as earlier posters mention too. As for the old hose, the side of the hose near the engine looked brittle. The side near the firewall looked okay.
I replaced the hose from underneath. After moving the fuel injection support bracket out of the way and then removing the starter, it was very straightforward. Not a whole lot of room, but do'able. No leak now.
No direct fill for antifreeze as there is no radiator cap. I seemed to have to fill it up, drive it and fill it again. The radiator drain too was weird; a 1/2" 6-point was needed; a 13mm slipped on that plastic plug. It was NOT 12mm; that was too small. .
Chuck
I just ran into this same problem today. I came to the forum for answers but I couldn't find a great one. Nobody really had any "tips." I figured I'd share how I removed and replaced this hose.
My 2004 five speed started leaking from a pinhole in the heater hose (the one stemming from the center of the block). I pressure tested the system to locate the leak, and then began biting my nails, worrying that I'd have to remove the intake manifold and a whole bunch of other things just to replace a stinking hose. But with a little redneck ingenuity I was able to pull it off with only removing one part. Here goes:
Get underneath the car, put it up high on jack stands.
Remove the starter assembly (two long bolts on the starter itself (10mm), and three nuts to the wires (2x12mm, 1x13mm). The starter should basically fall out.
Once you have the starter removed, you should be able to see straight up to where the hose connects to the outlet on the block. In my case, the prongs for the squeeze clamp were facing the wrong direction (upward toward the hood). This was problematic because the intake manifold braces are tunnel-like and C-shaped, and the hose goes right into one of these "tunnels." There is no room to get pliers or a tool on that clamp. This is when I got creative.. I took a length of wire, and doubled it over, and looped it up over BOTH prongs of the squeeze clamp. The wire was long enough to where I could wrap my hands in it (wear gloves) and heave-ho until the clamp rotated enough to where I could fish a pair of water pump pliers up there and back the clamp off of the outlet. The clamp on the firewall is easy to get to and remove.
When putting the new hose back on, I lubed it up and put a screw clamp on it, facing DOWN. I put a socket on the screw and used every extension I had, which made it easy to tighten the clamp using a ratchet from below the car. Note that the new hose was a length of standard heater hose from autozone and it was STRAIGHT, without the unnecessary bends that the stock ones have for some reason. I put a squeeze clamp on the firewall end of the new hose, pressure tested the system, and reinstalled the starter.
Filled it up with coolant, ran the engine and cycled the heater until it reached operating temperature. No runs, no drips, no errors.
Hope this helps you guys in the future!!!