Front Strut Mounts Loose - WTF???

I'm really PO'd. Today I took my car in for the yearly mandatory state inspection and it didn't pass. It's an '09 with only 19K miles on it. The mechanic told me the whole front suspension was loose. I couldn't believe it!

I took it home and checked it myself. He's right: when either front side is jacked up the whole top of the strut mount is loose with at least 1/2" play vertically between the flanged top metal cap bushing and the body mounting hole. I tried adjusting the lower nut (the one under the cap nut) but nothing would take out that gap. The whole strut assembly will move up and down if there is no weight on it. Both struts have the same looseness. The struts themselves are good; the car is always garaged, very clean, low mileage - it's much too young to have this sort of absurd problem.

The inspection sticker is expired so I'm desperate to have it pass inspection so I don't get a ticket. I found a way to rectify the situation, though. I scrounged through my materials and found two heavy rubber shock mounts that are about 1/2" thick and about 2" in diameter, with a hole in the center that is about the same size as the threaded strut rod. I put each rubber block on each strut rod, so it is covering the body panel hole, then put on the metal cap bushing and tightened down the top nut. It worked and it took out all the excess play. I'm taking it back tomorrow and hoping it will pass inspection.

What's with this bull****? Is this cheap suspension supposed to 'float', or not???

Chevrolet is going to hear from me on this one until this nonsense is rectified. :angryfire:

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Originally Posted by Thymeclock

I'm really PO'd. Today I took my car in for the yearly mandatory state inspection and it didn't pass. It's an '09 with only 19K miles on it. The mechanic told me the whole front suspension was loose. I couldn't believe it!

I took it home and checked it myself. He's right: when either front side is jacked up the whole top of the strut mount is loose with at least 1/2" play vertically between the flanged top metal cap bushing and the body mounting hole. I tried adjusting the lower nut (the one under the cap nut) but nothing would take out that gap. The whole strut assembly will move up and down if there is no weight on it. Both struts have the same looseness. The struts themselves are good; the car is always garaged, very clean, low mileage - it's much too young to have this sort of absurd problem.

The inspection sticker is expired so I'm desperate to have it pass inspection so I don't get a ticket. I found a way to rectify the situation, though. I scrounged through my materials and found two heavy rubber shock mounts that are about 1/2" thick and about 2" in diameter, with a hole in the center that is about the same size as the threaded strut rod. I put each rubber block on each strut rod, so it is covering the body panel hole, then put on the metal cap bushing and tightened down the top nut. It worked and it took out all the excess play. I'm taking it back tomorrow and hoping it will pass inspection.

What's with this bull****? Is this cheap suspension supposed to 'float', or not???

Chevrolet is going to hear from me on this one until this nonsense is rectified. :angryfire:

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Thymeclock, I apologize for your frustrations with this issue. Hopefully you're able to get to the bottom of this. Have you scheduled an appointment with your Chevy dealership for a diagnosis for this issue? Please keep us posted on the outcome or private message me with any additional concerns or questions.


Vanessa
GM Customer Service

If i remember correctly the suspension is supposed to float like that. I read about it in quite a few other threads on here

EDIT: clicking on the suspension forum on the first page yielded this result http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f85/t...pension-14247/

i'm not sure about what you mean by "either front side is jacked up the whole top of the strut mount is loose with at least 1/2" play vertically." BUT if you are putting more weight on the a arm to lift the whole front end, then the gap will enlarge because the added weight per side will force flex to the strut mount.

The question really is if the weight of the car is proper distributed, what is the gap set at then?
Where did you take it for inspection?

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Originally Posted by Pickles

If i remember correctly the suspension is supposed to float like that. I read about it in quite a few other threads on here

EDIT: clicking on the suspension forum on the first page yielded this result http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f85/t...pension-14247/

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Thank you for posting this reference. I had read other references to it here, but not this particular one. However, the idea that this condition is 'normal' is merely an opinion, and anecdotal. I haven't been able to locate a more official source, just the opinion in this forum that it is normal. I'd appreciate seeing other references to this 'floating' suspension in print, from a more official source to verify the claim.

Today my car passed state inspection only because I had added the rubber block material to both strut mounts to remove that 1/2" vertical play completely. Bear in mind that in my state, inspection carries the weight of law with a violation attached - and the inspection agent would not accept the idea that a suspension was supposed to 'float'. I showed him a similar reference to it in a printout from this forum citing it, but he remained unconvinced.

No compliance = no inspection sticker = violation. [-X

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Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit

i'm not sure about what you mean by "either front side is jacked up the whole top of the strut mount is loose with at least 1/2" play vertically." BUT if you are putting more weight on the a arm to lift the whole front end, then the gap will enlarge because the added weight per side will force flex to the strut mount.

The question really is if the weight of the car is proper distributed, what is the gap set at then?
Where did you take it for inspection?

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If the car is sitting on the ground, a gap of 1/2" is evident at the top of the strut mount between the metal cap and the body. Both sides are the same. My struts are not worn or defective.

If you jack one side up so the front wheel is off the ground the gap will close, but you can lift the entire wheel and strut assembly up and down (vertically) to witness that 1/2" of play. That's considered a no-no in this state.

In New York our yearly inspection is mandatory and conducted by licensed inspection stations. If the inspector deems it to be not in compliance he won't issue a sticker. No sticker = violation = ticket bait.

Here's how it ended up. I removed one of the rubber bushings I made from the strut on one side and took the car to a Chevy dealer (one that had a much better service dept. than the one I had previously dealt with.) In effect they told me that the 1/2 inch gap at the top of the strut column is normal and there was no problem present. They gave it to me in writing on the work order release. Apparently this is the way the strut mount is designed.

I removed the rubber bushings that I had made to eliminate the gap on both struts. I'll wait until next year when the car is due for state inspection again. At least now I have some documentation with which to refute the decision of the state inspection agent, if anyone should make an issue of it in the future.

You have to go through all this BS because of some inspection agent who has no clue of the cars design? Absolutely crazy!

Maybe your inspector wasn't aware that the car is what it is. Tell him you can't change that. He should understand.;)

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Originally Posted by odypilots

Maybe your inspector wasn't aware that the car is what it is. Tell him you can't change that. He should understand.:wink:

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Actually I'm on good terms with this shop. They are honest, experienced guys. The owner is probably well over age 60 and the mechanic doing the inspection is at least 50. The owner told me that he's never seen a strut suspension like that. Since it isn't bolted down at the top of the strut tower, everything can float up and down on both sides when the car is on a lift. Frankly, I'm close to 60 myself, and I had never seen strut mounts like this either. Aveos are very uncommon in my area. When they pulled the car into the shop it goes over something like a speed bump, which will cause this floating suspension to clunk. That's what prompted the mechanic to go looking for what caused the noise, so he told me.

It wasn't as if they were trying to sell me struts. They agreed that the struts work fine. It was the way they are mounted as a floating concept that was unfamiliar to them. By my adding the rubber bushings to eliminate the slack it put them in the position of having nothing left to complain about - so they had to issue the inspection sticker. But the shop owner wouldn't accept my explanation that it appears to be designed that way. He searched the web while I was in his office and found nothing on the subject. I also did a search at home, and can find nothing official that verifies that the 1/2" gap and the floating is normal.

At least now I have documentation from Chevy that they inspected it and found no problem. Frankly, I still think this is a cheaply designed suspension and not a good idea - but it's one we have to live with.

I have the SAME problem you have with your 2009 Aveo.

I bought mine NEW from Southtowne in Newnan, GA (though it did have 42 miles on it). The problem we share HAS CAUSED ME TO NEED TO HAVE 14 NEW TIRES ON MY CAR IN ONLY 29,927 miles! The 11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th new 70,000-mile tires were put-on at 29,927 miles and NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AT 45,163 miles! I just installed tires 15, 16, 17, and 18 because the rotate-and-balance technicians REFUSED TO ROTATE AND BALANCE THE TIRES due to their condition! So, THAT MEANS I ONLY GOT TO USE THOSE 11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th NEW 70,000-mile tires for 15,236 miles!!! - I should still be on my ORIGINAL tires! But, not only have I had to have 18 NEW tires on my Aveo in 45,163 miles, but I also had to have 5 wheel alignments!

THIS WILL EXPLAIN WHAT IS CAUSING THE TROUBLE AND WHAT WE NEED TO DO ABOUT IT:

IF you put your Aveo up on a shop-lift, EVEN RIGHT AFTER IT’S HAD AN ALIGNMENT(!), YOU WILL SEE THAT YOU CAN FREELY AND EASILY WOBBLE-AROUND THE FRONT END WHEEL-ASSEMBLIES! (It’s shocking to see!) And THAT IS BECAUSE THE WHOLE SHOCK-AND-STRUT WHEEL-ASSEMBLIES AREN’T ACTUALLY HELD “IN-PLACE” ON THE AVEOS! - LIKE THEY ARE ON EVERY OTHER NORMAL CAR WHICH MY EXPERT MECHANICS AT AAMCO TRANSMISSIONS (in Newnan, GA) HAVE EVER SEEN! - ie: WITH BIG, THICK COVER-PLATES THAT’RE EACH SECURED WITH 3 BIG BOLTS! THE AVEOS, however, ONLY HAVE SINGLE NUTS ON THE CENTERS OF SMALL CUP-LIKE METAL PCS, WITH CORRESPONDING NUTS ON THE UNDERSIDES, AND, PRESUMABLY, THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO HOLD THE FRONT-END SUSPENSION-ASSEMBLIES IN-PLACE, WHICH THEY CANNOT POSSIBLY DO!!! See for yourself! And, of course, THE LOOSENESS AND WOBBLING WILL CAUSE EXCESSIVE WEAR ON THE TIRES, AS WELL AS ON OTHER THINGS. I’ve already had to have the steering rack and pinion replaced and tie-rod ends made tight, and Sears, at 45,205 miles, told me they think I should have the struts and shocks replaced, then realign the wheels! AAMCO SAYS THAT THE WAY THAT, BY DESIGN, THE STRUTS FLOAT IN THE STRUT-TOWERS, ALLOWS THE GEOMETRY TO CHANGE, AND THAT IS WHAT CAUSES THE EXCESSIVE TIRE-WEAR (like what I’ve experienced from the very start!)

THIS IS A GROSS DESIGN-DEFECT -- BUT HERE IS WHAT WE, AVEO-OWNERS NEED TO DO ABOUT IT:

- We need to BAND-TOGETHER AND SHAME GM FOR PUTTING OUT SUCH A MIGRAINE-HEADACHE-OF-A-CAR (even though they’ve quit making it, Thank God!) AND FORCE THEM TO COME UP WITH A FIX FOR US, IF THEY EVER EXPECT TO WIN BACK OUR RESPECT TO THE POINT WHERE WE’LL BUY GM CARS AGAIN - You can’t just sell the American people severely-flawed cars (which were supposedly designed to be inexpensive and low-maintenance) WHICH CAN’T EVEN BE KEPT ALIGNED AND CARS WITH WHICH IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO GET ANYWHERE-NEAR THE WARRANTED MILEAGE OF TIRES THAT ARE PUT ON THEM, AND EXPECT TO GET-AWAY WITH IT WITHOUT PAYING A HEAVY PRICE!

No professional I’ve ever spoken-to about this believes it’s even-remotely possible that the GM dealership (Southtowne of Newnan), which was doing all of our PRE-PAID MAINTENANCE (though it appears that they weren't ACTUALLY doing all of it) would not know that something was wrong with the car, which was CAUSING all these problems! When my guys at Aamco Transmissions looked to see what was causing all the tire-wear, they found the cause almost immediately!

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Originally Posted by truthlover

All of it

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:cyclopsani::cyclopsani::cyclopsani::cyclopsani::c yclopsani:

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Originally Posted by truthlover

I have the SAME problem you have with your 2009 Aveo.

I bought mine NEW from Southtowne in Newnan, GA (though it did have 42 miles on it). The problem we share HAS CAUSED ME TO NEED TO HAVE 14 NEW TIRES ON MY CAR IN ONLY 29,927 miles! The 11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th new 70,000-mile tires were put-on at 29,927 miles and NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AT 45,163 miles! I just installed tires 15, 16, 17, and 18 because the rotate-and-balance technicians REFUSED TO ROTATE AND BALANCE THE TIRES due to their condition! So, THAT MEANS I ONLY GOT TO USE THOSE 11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th NEW 70,000-mile tires for 15,236 miles!!! - I should still be on my ORIGINAL tires! But, not only have I had to have 18 NEW tires on my Aveo in 45,163 miles, but I also had to have 5 wheel alignments!

THIS WILL EXPLAIN WHAT IS CAUSING THE TROUBLE AND WHAT WE NEED TO DO ABOUT IT:

IF you put your Aveo up on a shop-lift, EVEN RIGHT AFTER IT’S HAD AN ALIGNMENT(!), YOU WILL SEE THAT YOU CAN FREELY AND EASILY WOBBLE-AROUND THE FRONT END WHEEL-ASSEMBLIES! (It’s shocking to see!) And THAT IS BECAUSE THE WHOLE SHOCK-AND-STRUT WHEEL-ASSEMBLIES AREN’T ACTUALLY HELD “IN-PLACE” ON THE AVEOS! - LIKE THEY ARE ON EVERY OTHER NORMAL CAR WHICH MY EXPERT MECHANICS AT AAMCO TRANSMISSIONS (in Newnan, GA) HAVE EVER SEEN! - ie: WITH BIG, THICK COVER-PLATES THAT’RE EACH SECURED WITH 3 BIG BOLTS! THE AVEOS, however, ONLY HAVE SINGLE NUTS ON THE CENTERS OF SMALL CUP-LIKE METAL PCS, WITH CORRESPONDING NUTS ON THE UNDERSIDES, AND, PRESUMABLY, THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO HOLD THE FRONT-END SUSPENSION-ASSEMBLIES IN-PLACE, WHICH THEY CANNOT POSSIBLY DO!!! See for yourself! And, of course, THE LOOSENESS AND WOBBLING WILL CAUSE EXCESSIVE WEAR ON THE TIRES, AS WELL AS ON OTHER THINGS. I’ve already had to have the steering rack and pinion replaced and tie-rod ends made tight, and Sears, at 45,205 miles, told me they think I should have the struts and shocks replaced, then realign the wheels! AAMCO SAYS THAT THE WAY THAT, BY DESIGN, THE STRUTS FLOAT IN THE STRUT-TOWERS, ALLOWS THE GEOMETRY TO CHANGE, AND THAT IS WHAT CAUSES THE EXCESSIVE TIRE-WEAR (like what I’ve experienced from the very start!)

THIS IS A GROSS DESIGN-DEFECT -- BUT HERE IS WHAT WE, AVEO-OWNERS NEED TO DO ABOUT IT:

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I am having the wheel wobble, all too frequent alignment crapping out and chewing through tires like gum. I don't have the money to keep fixing this money pit and it's past warranty (70k miles, 2006). If you read my previous posts, I mentioned just how terrifying it is to drive this car. Unsafe is an understatement and that is even immediately following alignment and new tires. I want to mention the lack of safety here in case something happens, because it genuinely is just that terrifying. Not everyone can afford a new or even used car to replace what should have been structurally safe from the beginning.

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Originally Posted by truthlover

I have the SAME problem you have with your 2009 Aveo.

I bought mine NEW from Southtowne in Newnan, GA (though it did have 42 miles on it). The problem we share HAS CAUSED ME TO NEED TO HAVE 14 NEW TIRES ON MY CAR IN ONLY 29,927 miles! The 11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th new 70,000-mile tires were put-on at 29,927 miles and NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AT 45,163 miles! I just installed tires 15, 16, 17, and 18 because the rotate-and-balance technicians REFUSED TO ROTATE AND BALANCE THE TIRES due to their condition! So, THAT MEANS I ONLY GOT TO USE THOSE 11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th NEW 70,000-mile tires for 15,236 miles!!! - I should still be on my ORIGINAL tires! But, not only have I had to have 18 NEW tires on my Aveo in 45,163 miles, but I also had to have 5 wheel alignments!

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I'm the last person who would want to defend GM - but in all honesty, I have no abnormal tire wear. My car has about 24K miles and will need new tires soon, but they are evenly worn. I typically only get about 25K miles out of a set of tires, so in my case there's nothing unusual about that.

After all the work that was done on your car I suspect some of it might have been done wrong, and/or some front end components may be worn by now. It sounds like you alignment was set wrong. In past decades I experienced more than one shop that did the same thing - actually made the alignment worse than it was in the original complaint.

And now the ticking time bomb strikes again, with the passenger air bag off/air bag problem dummy lights randomly going on and off this morning, despite the fact that a passenger was in the seat. This car is a fine example of poor workmanship, to the point where it will end up in history, like the Pinto.

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Originally Posted by Thymeclock

I typically only get about 25K miles out of a set of tires, so in my case there's nothing unusual about that.

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i love this statement right here, if a 70,000 mile tire was going to last 70,000 miles. it can only run on perfectly paved roads in one direction with no stops, no starts, no turns, and only going one predetermined speed based on the rating of the tire. (typically i have heard it is 35mph). Change any of those factors and a 70k mile tire will not last that long.

I typically get 10k miles out of a set of tires, regardless of if the tires are on my aveo, my audi, my vw, cavalier, r32, toyota truck, heck I've owned over 150 cars, and probably put at least one set of tires on all of them. The oem tire that came on my aveo lasted 3000 miles because of my driving style, my current set of sunny tires ($45 each) went 15k mostly highway.

The floating suspension is a copy of vw's design used for almost 40 years. To the point that I just stuck vw vr6 strut mounts in my car to test them out. I run vw coil overs, and you can replace your rear axle bushings with vw bushings when they wear out. The design between the bolt in plate top mount and the floating top are only slightly different, being the strut tower becomes part of the suspension, where in design, the bolt in struts you are essentially unbolting the top of the strut tower with the strut. In fact quite a few bolt mounts have the same mount design inside that plate. It is also different depending on how the rest of the suspension is designed.

IF you want to have a real debate about tires and how long they should last, post up the specs, brand and price you paid for the tires. The post your typical driving style, what the wear is on the tires, pictures, alignment print outs, and the road conditions and type.

But that is only If you want to have a REAL tire debate, if you want to have a suspension debate, then we can research the suspension designs of all the "better" cars and compare just the upper strut mount that you blame in comparison.

In all honesty, 18 tires is also kind of a number game, that is only 4 and 1/2 sets, since tire companies never replace one tire for this reason or that. You have gone 45K miles on 4 1/2 sets of tires, your right in like with my 10k mile per set of tires mark. Which leave me to believe you drive a little fast, in stop go traffic, and make a lot of turns, as well as accelerate with the wheel turned which chews off the edge of the tire, which we could prove if we could see your tire wear.

I have 04 and 07 aveos both with the dreaded strut gaps. With much searching I think I have solved the problem or at least have a workaround without new bushings.

It looks like the top bushing has been universally installed upside down. I have attached an exploded parts diagram of strut which clearly shows the bushing oriented with the bevel down.

It is quite natural to want to place the bevel up so that it fits neatly into the frame metal of the same shape. But oriented as such there is a large gap with play of 1/2" no matter whether or not the bushing is new.

Flipped beveled side down as shown in the second attachment, you can now torque to spec (44 ft-lbs) and drives greata ENDS THE KNOCKING AND OTHER RATTLES. Both my Aveos are smooth and cushioned. Attachment 12083

Seem to be missing photo in previous postAttachment 12084

https://youtu.be/8bOfDpea1EY

A video on how to correctly install the strut mount components

There has been a revision of the mounting bushings made now by OEM and also same revised design and shape available through Autozone. The revised bushings correctly fit the shock tower and strut eliminating the all of the play and gap. There should be pictures here on another thread. OEM part number is 95015324. The old design was more generic styled. The revised design self centers in the shock tower.

My 09 has this issue. I probably didn't need them but I bought two Monroe upper strut mounts, and will install them the correct way so the strut can't flop around.