being i know how to do alignments, and know what degrees of this or that mean, and how they affect driving, I have never had one alignment done that i was completely happy with. I tend to alight the car myself anymore with tapemeasures and bobs, and use the $100 i save on the next set of tires (my tires are $200 a set about, so if i "dont" do 2 alignments a year, i can pay for new tires instead).

From reading your description i see a few red flags.


If you align the car to "compensate" for worn parts, then it will be off when you replace the parts. the alignment is worthless if those parts hold the spindle, or steering, which from the explanation i think you know already.

the rear should normally be in spec unless you lower the car, might be a sign of premature wear on the bushings?

wheel weight wobble is worse at excessive speed, but is wobbling all the time, if the wheel is "worn" to the point it is not balance-able, it was not balanced in the first place. But if a wheel does not balance, the shop should mark and rotate the tire on the rim, this is a lost art it seems. A weight missing or missed balanced wheel is usually a fast shake, like a vibration in the wheel.

the bad tires is very likely in the bad feel of an alignment. And the ball joint being loose is an indicator of a alignment point, aveo should not need it moved as it has two bolts on the strut but it could need moved. This could have been done at the alignment.

a leaking strut, will not affect alignment like you seem to be led to believe, it controls bounce and rebound, but it will hold alignment even if it is leaking.


but an explanation of why your alignment doesn't work? you will get a different answer every time, from every alignment tech.