How to change timing belt.

[Rayzor]

Hi there. I just bought a 2004 Aveo LS with 52,000 miles on it. I just found out that I have to replace the timing belt.(I did`nt get a manual with it.). Is this a job I can do at home? Any help would be appreciated.........Thanks.

[aveodude]

you will need some special tools. If you are not very mechanically inclined, dont attempt it. Messing up the timing can cost a motor.

[acdc1287]

it can be done at home but i had a mechanic do it

[saffs_wheee]

Hi all, Happy New Year! haven't been about in awhile, i hope you're all well and the forum is thriving!!!

Wheee now has 54K miles on it and now i'm thinking hard about having the timing belt changed. I was wondering if any of you have any input with regards to any issues or possible issues with this proceedure, as well as the inclusion of any additional work such as changing of the timing belt idler, tensioner water pump and thermostat housing. I've been reading alot of stuff online, querying google and have found tons of stuff... mostly bad stories from alot of disgrutled people with there aveo's. Please, share any experiences you have or of anyone who has been through this. It may help all of us out in the future

One of the more important things I've found is that when I asked around about changing the timing belt from a GM to an aftermarket, surprisingly everyone says use the GM one, because it has been made stronger than the original in light of all the premature failures it's had, costing them tons of money. I called my local chevy dealer and they said the belt was 90$! I've found it online for 32$!!! Who's ripping who off??? Trying to recoup all their market losses from the aveo owners!!! Also, it appears that the thermostat housing is plastic and has been cracking so I read that the new replacements are metal...aluminum I presume, but don't know for sure.

The only problem I am currently experiencing is that the rear shocks are now worn out, and have now partially ruined my back tires. I took it in to get the tires "flipped" (meaning: I have directional V-rated tires, so in order to rotate fully, the tires must be demounted and remounted, spun 180 degrees, so the inside is now the outside of the tire.) but, in the process, I did not know the tired have started "cupping" or "feathering". So after I had them flipped, balanced and rotated, the fronts which were the rears now shake terribly. So I had to put them on the back. Also, due to the cupping the tires have that whinning sound like a bad bearing would sound. It stopped at about 70mph. So, anyone have a recommendation for a good rear shock? Not expensive, just better than stock.

Also, another tip... make sure you change your cabin filter's regularly. I think I posted a tip here. And that is to cut the bottom part of the plastic that is in front of the filter slot making it way easier to replace. I used a pair of tin snips. Not to worry, it does not degrade the sturdiness, the metal plate screws on either side keep it stiff.

Ok, if anyone has any info to help out or, if you have questions about the aveo that I may be able to help out with, please email me at: sicbox (at) hotmail (dot) com

Thank You all for being here! :P :P :P

[07_aveo]

I took it in to get the tires "flipped" (meaning: I have directional V-rated tires, so in order to rotate fully, the tires must be demounted and remounted, spun 180 degrees, so the inside is now the outside of the tire.) but, in the process, I did not know the tired have started "cupping" or "feathering". So after I had them flipped, balanced and rotated, the fronts which were the rears now shake terribly.

You don't actually have to do that. Most tire manufacturers recommend that radial tires not be swapped side to side as they wear to what side of the car they're on and when you swap them to the other side, it can result in radial pull.

One of the more important things I've found is that when I asked around about changing the timing belt from a GM to an aftermarket, surprisingly everyone says use the GM one, because it has been made stronger than the original in light of all the premature failures it's had, costing them tons of money.

If that after-market belt happens to fail pre-maturely, it'll void your warranty. I'd recommend going with factory even though it is more expensive, but everything from the dealer is over priced.

[hyperacme]

Dealer told me $325 to change it.

[Monzaveo]

Dealer told me $325 to change it.

Sounds about right.

Thats why I'm considering changing it myself.

I figure I can get all the parts, of good quality, the tools (pulley remover and idler wrench), and all the service manuals necessary to do the job right, and have a mint set of service manuals to keep, when Im done with the whole thing for around $300.

Then, if I find it easy enough, I can offer to change it for $200

I'm sure I'll get 1 or 2 customers from around town...that way my belt will be free, plus, a few nice steak dinners to boot.

[NYChevoo]

Dealer told me $325 to change it.

$325.00??? my dealership said $698.00 with the kit and new waterpump! i want to go to your dealership!

[hyperacme]

I asked the service guy when I got the car because I had just spent $900 to do my Accord.
Next time I go I'll ask more questions. Though he said the water pump wasn't in the way.
He did look it up in the time & parts book so it should be right...I HOPE...

[petrified.rabbit]

how much is a oem waterpump though?
if your already in there labor wise, you might as well replace it too. for the Extra $300 it seems it would be another hour or two and $100 parts...