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    Thread: Low oil pressure problems, Please Help!

    1. #11
      Senior Member josefb134's Avatar
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      The new sensor that turns on the low oil pressure light was supposed to turn on at a lower psi such as 5.5psi instead of 6.5psi, the oil pressure was at 6psi at 2000 rpms is what the dealer said. Im thinking of just replacing the oil pump because it could just be worn out after its 135600 miles put on the vehicle but do you think if i was to replace the oil pump that the oil pressure would be higher? When i checked the oil pickup tube, it had no blockage in it when i took it off and blew through it. Thanks!



    2. #12
      Almost time to do my timing belt
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      A new pump MAY fix this low pressure problem, and it's likely the last relatively inexpensive thing left for you to try, and probably worth a shot. But unfortunately based on what you wrote, the underlying cause may be a significant internal engine problem. As mentioned earlier, there was a reason for the new head. The 2 likely causes would be timing belt breaking or overheating (the plastic thermostats crack like clockwork). When a timing belt breaks, that typically results in valves smashing into pistons, until everything stops turning. And while it's much more common to just get bent valves, there's also a possibility one or more lower engine parts were damaged as well. You said the guy that sold it to you said: "it is practically like putting a new engine in or at least it will run like new". Caveat emptor. There is no way he could possibly know that for certain unless he completely disassembled/reassembled the entire engine, checked every part, and also knew what he was looking at. I'm assuming you have no warranty or recourse on the sale, so you're probably stuck with it. IMO, if the pump doesn't work, you probably need to find out how much a new engine (with a warranty) would cost, and if that's something you would do, versus considering another vehicle. But I hope that's not the case, and that the new pump works for you. Good luck with it!

    3. #13
      Senior Member josefb134's Avatar
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      Thank you for the input! Im not sure if it will fix my problem or not but im hoping it will. I was just watching this video ( How Oil Pressure Works - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube ) and i was wondering if maybe while im at replacing the oil pump if i should have the rod bearings checked because they are the reason for your oil pressure, i wish i would've known that because i would have took a look at them when i dropped the oil pan..

    4. #14
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      Josefb134, you ever figure it out? Driving from Orange County to Phoenix this past September I noticed my oil pressure light was on at idle when getting off the freeway at an idle. Other than that long distance trip, it's been fine.

    5. #15
      Senior Member josefb134's Avatar
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      Hey, just an update, i took my car in to the shop and had them put a new oil pump and new main rod bearings and connecting rod bearings for $608 in total! It fixed my problem of having 6 psi for oil pressure at a hot idle, Now im holding 15-20 psi which is factory(brand new engine) standards from what i hear! My car used to have a ticking noise and a very fain tapping or knocking noise but now it sounds so great. It runs very smooth and i am just happy overall with everything! If i were you and you were having these problems then i would have what i did done! Make sure that they check to see if your crankshaft rods aren't egg-shaped though, if they are then they will just eat up the new bearings you put in there. If you ask around and see what shop has the best reputation for rebuilding the bottom end of engines then they will know what you are talking about. the picture has the parts and part numbers if anyone wants them! I got them off of ebay though lol

    6. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by josefb134 View Post
      Hey, just an update, i took my car in to the shop and had them put a new oil pump and new main rod bearings and connecting rod bearings for $608 in total! It fixed my problem of having 6 psi for oil pressure at a hot idle, Now im holding 15-20 psi which is factory(brand new engine) standards from what i hear! My car used to have a ticking noise and a very fain tapping or knocking noise but now it sounds so great. It runs very smooth and i am just happy overall with everything! If i were you and you were having these problems then i would have what i did done! Make sure that they check to see if your crankshaft rods aren't egg-shaped though, if they are then they will just eat up the new bearings you put in there. If you ask around and see what shop has the best reputation for rebuilding the bottom end of engines then they will know what you are talking about. the picture has the parts and part numbers if anyone wants them! I got them off of ebay though lol
      Glad to hear your Aveo is back on the road again and that the problem was diagnosed.

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      For information on the GM Privacy Statement, please visit http://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.html

    7. #17
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      about to do this to my aveo pretty soon. the parts list that was up seems to be gone and just making sure i get everything before i do this. i have a 2008 5 speed hatchback so its the first engine. im not seeing a gasket for the oil pan to purchase, i only found one for the automatic 4 speed. will i need a gasket or just the RTV sealant?

      Also what would be the preferred sealant? amazon link would be awesome
      Parts: Auto 7 oil pump Link, oil filter+oil.

      Thanks!

    8. #18
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      oh as for the main rod and connecting rod bearings does anyone have the service guide for that and what can i use to clean the oil pan before i reinstall it?
      Last edited by aveopart; 09-28-2013 at 04:01 AM.

    9. #19
      Senior Member josefb134's Avatar
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      I don't believe there is a gasket for the oil pan. You have to use sealant that is designed for use on an engine because of the temp ratings of the sealant. I would check with your local shops just to see what sealant they most recommend for an oil pan. make sure to clean around where the sealant will go on both the engine and the pan. I used Brake Cleaner to do this on both but i wouldn't spray break cleaner directly on the engine block, id just spray it on a rag and clean it off. Try to get all of the old gasket/sealant off off the oil pan and engine block where it came together. I also used brake cleaner to clean off the inside of the oil pan to remove any gunk. Once clean let it sit for about half an hour or longer to ensure all of the brake cleaner has evaporated and then take a air compressor to the oil pan to make sure all debris and dust and everything else is out of it. here is the picture of the parts i needed but i wont know if you will. Name:  000carinvoice[1].jpg
Views: 3279
Size:  293.8 KB If you have any more questions, feel free to ask!

    10. #20
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      Thanks for the info! Now to gather a few more things and take this out someday pretty soon.





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