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AveoI don't know if anyone had mentioned it already, but I'd recommend sticking to a quality fully synthetic oil(not synthetic blend) if you dont want to do this again in the next 5-8 years.
I don't know if anyone had mentioned it already, but I'd recommend sticking to a quality fully synthetic oil(not synthetic blend) if you dont want to do this again in the next 5-8 years.
Just ordered the oil pump and got the gasket for it as well. Now looking to get the bearings since those can be changed while the pan is off. Anyone happen to change their own main and rod bearings or have access to one of the repair manuals ?
If your main and rod bearings are worn then more than likely, your cam is egg shaped and is wearing em down. I would have them installed professionally unless you know the info on how to accurately measure all around the cam and tell if it's egg shaped or not. you might have to get your cam resurfaced/refurbished before you put the main and rod bearings back on because if not then it will just eat them up again in a short amount of time, like a few months.
I was told by an oil change place and a mechanic that you are supposed to stick with the same oil that it came with from factory (conventional) and not switch to synthetic because it can ruin your engine. i am skeptical about this and i switched back and forth a few times before i was told this so i'm not sure how it can but that's what they said. They said it was because when the engine first runs and everything, the engine adapts to the type of oil originally ran in it and you should never change the type of oil you put in it. But i am not sure still, like i said because i don't see how it could damage it.Originally Posted by fbc
I believe it may be the oil pump. My 2004 oil light does the same thing, and I have at times very loud knocking at valves close to the timing belt. When the engine runs hot for long period of time on the highway the knocking of the valves get very loud. I though I was low on oil but not. Seems the problem may directly stem from the oil pump creating low oil pressure and not enough oil getting up to the cam.
I can not figure out what you are referring to . I do not think there is a direct relationship between the cams and main & rod bearings ?
God bless
Wyr
What type of oil does your service manual require ?
There are hundreds of wives tales about oil . I am kind of on the fence . I use full synthetic in our 1.8l 2015 Sonic ( Dexos required ) . But I have yet to buy into the extended drain perion . I am changing it myself 3000 - 3500 miles .
Check the sales at Advance Auto & Walmart for oil . Just bought a bunch of closeout oil filters from RockAuto.com .
God bless
Wyr
I actually sold my aveo around 9 months ago and got an RX-8. I dont really remember much from all of it lol sorry man, hopefully someone else on here can help ya out. I personally would just stick to conventional as it is a lot cheaper and everything and it still lasts a pretty good while. One thing I do definitely suggest is putting a tank or two in a row of Shell V-Powered Nitro in the car. I know its 93 octane and the aveo will sometimes ping with the higher octane but the v-Powered Nitro stuff consistently cleans up to 60% of deposits in just your first tank. I have to run 93 in the RX-8 and always used BP but decided to try the Nitro stuff from Shell and holy crap, that stuff changed everything haha I literally refuse to use anything else now. It made it a lot more peppy and the throttle response is better and she just seems to run so much smoother throughout the rpm range. My buddy bought a brand new 2015 ford focus and used to just fill up 87 from wherever he could get gas and he said the more he drove it, over a few months of having it he could tell his car seemed a bit different and a bit more sluggish on acceleration. He tried one tank of the Shell V-Powered Nitro and said his car felt just like new again after two tanks and feels like a totally different car. He also refuses to put anything else in his car now. It really is worth it lol Here's a few videos showing the difference and explaining it.
https://youtu.be/4WPfLnVuQyM
https://youtu.be/gqvhaPLuTPI
When referring to the main and rod bearings though, on the crankshaft there are holes that oil is pumped through to lubricate the main and rod bearings that each piston is attached to. I might have said camshaft instead of crankshaft on accident lol A few months after replacing my main and rod bearings as well as my oil and water pump, the flickering oil pressure light came back when at a stop. The mechanics told me that the rod and main journals were slightly egg shaped but replacing the bearings could do one of two things. It could work just fine for the rest of the life of the car, or it could just go back to doing the same thing after a few months. They told me that they were ever so slightly egg shaped and that was the cause of my lack of oil pressure because the oil was escaping from the bearings. They said it would continue to run just fine unless the egg shape worsened but they said it would take a while for that to happen lol Hope this helps!
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Joe's Aveo
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