My first problem! (Engine won't crank - lights dim)

[Avezoh]

=D> Car will bump start ( Aveo 5 with 5 speed - 2008 model 26,666 miles- yeah- I know- at least that's better than 66,666 miles...) but with three known good batteries that make all the lights bright, etc. as soon as I shove in the clutch to bypass the neutral safety switch ( or whatever they are called on new cars these days ) and switch the key to the start position I hear the juice buzz down, hear a click, the buzzer sounds anemic and the interior lights go dim. Also, the icon for electrical ( same as the icon inside the fuse box ( looks like a section view of a tire with tread and exclamation mark in the center ) stays continuously illuminated in the speedo cluster. It started with trying to start it yesterday and the light was intermittent. Managed to bump start the car and get it home. Tested the battery in it as well as two batts I have on hand for my hobby cars. The problem seems to be on the positive side of the battery circuit. Perhaps the 100 amp fuse that is part of the positive cable? I also switched out relays and fuses in the fuse block that looked like they might be part of the starting/running circuit ( like the ignition 1 and 2 fuses and the "main" relay. No change. So what are the possibilities? Thanks ahead of time.

Steve

[Daox]

Increased tire pressure is good for rain, bad for snow.

[exodus0784]

To a point, I'd agree... 40-42 is probably rounding out the contact patch

I can only speak from experience... my Dunlop SP60s are terrible on wet road at 40PSI... they're pretty bad on wet road at any ways, though, definitely noticeably worse close to the max pressure rating. I never run my bridgestones at that pressure, so I couldn't say with those.

In any case, give it a shot, just be weary until you know how they react! </derailment>

[Avezoh]

Hmmm, here in California snow is not a worry. We'll see what the long term characteristics are of greater inflation pressures. These wheels/tires won't be on long anyway- going to 15's and 195's.


Steve

[Avezoh]

Perhaps, these particular tires list 35 psi as the minimum pressure with 50 as the max.
Update on the no crank issue, bad battery. Though I put a " known good" Optima in there I forgot to trickle charge it for hours and got a false green flash reading on it. It drew down quickly because it wasn't charged and I noticed that the stock battery is a 550 CC beast. The Optima is a 375 or so and wasn't deep charged. So that explains that. Got an owner's manual too. Now onto mods for this little hot hatch!

Steve

[petrified.rabbit]

375 cca battery would do that in our cars.

[Avezoh]

I imagine if it were at full capacity it would provide the cranking amperage to turn it over, nonetheless, expecting a half weight ( 13 lbs. ) muscle car battery meant for a car with points, power steering, a 60 amp alternator, and little else, to fill the gap after sitting in the garage for 4 months was a touch optimistic. I'm guessing the high torque starter motor and higher output alternator on the Aveo ( though my car does not have a/c , sunroof, power windows, nor fog-lamps ) requires a high output battery, though I did note that the minimal acceptable load output is 270 amps minimum ( acceptable for recharging- not necessarily cranking an engine over ) meaning a fully charged 375 Optima should just deliver. However, I'll definitely be looking for a higher output item up the road when I look for a lightweight substitute for the stock GM battery.

Steve

[petrified.rabbit]

braille battery is your best bet in that case. do some research though, you can save money buying the same battery without the braille sticker, but i dont not recall which it is.

[Avezoh]

braille battery is your best bet in that case. do some research though, you can save money buying the same battery without the braille sticker, but i dont not recall which it is.

Bet I can tell by feel!

Steve

[MetroMPG]

Well, glad it was just a bad battery.

Did you actually put a voltmeter on it when you were trying to figure out what was wrong?