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    Thread: My first problem! (Engine won't crank - lights dim)

    1. #11
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
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      Semi-update. Took car in this morning. Will have answer this afternoon. The tire light did not come on this morning and has remained off. The Service Advisor said that when battery voltage goes below 5 volts sensors lose their memory and then need to relearn the base they are adjusted for. After a few miles of driving and attaining roughly 35 mph they reset. This is apparently what happened though the light was on when I parked it last week as I recall. The other head scratcher is I took the tires from the recommended 31 psi on the door jamb to about 40-42. That's quite a jump above the recommended pressure. But the light's off and I don't care if the tires are well past the theoretical adjustment range!

      Steve



    2. #12
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      40-42 will probably be terrible in rain or snow (I know it is on my bridgestones). For daily driving, I'd leave them around 35psi.

    3. #13
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      Increased tire pressure is good for rain, bad for snow.

    4. #14
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      Hmmm, here in California snow is not a worry. We'll see what the long term characteristics are of greater inflation pressures. These wheels/tires won't be on long anyway- going to 15's and 195's.


      Steve

    5. #15
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      To a point, I'd agree... 40-42 is probably rounding out the contact patch

      I can only speak from experience... my Dunlop SP60s are terrible on wet road at 40PSI... they're pretty bad on wet road at any ways, though, definitely noticeably worse close to the max pressure rating. I never run my bridgestones at that pressure, so I couldn't say with those.

      In any case, give it a shot, just be weary until you know how they react! </derailment>

    6. #16
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      Perhaps, these particular tires list 35 psi as the minimum pressure with 50 as the max.
      Update on the no crank issue, bad battery. Though I put a " known good" Optima in there I forgot to trickle charge it for hours and got a false green flash reading on it. It drew down quickly because it wasn't charged and I noticed that the stock battery is a 550 CC beast. The Optima is a 375 or so and wasn't deep charged. So that explains that. Got an owner's manual too. Now onto mods for this little hot hatch!

      Steve

    7. #17
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      375 cca battery would do that in our cars.


    8. #18
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      I imagine if it were at full capacity it would provide the cranking amperage to turn it over, nonetheless, expecting a half weight ( 13 lbs. ) muscle car battery meant for a car with points, power steering, a 60 amp alternator, and little else, to fill the gap after sitting in the garage for 4 months was a touch optimistic. I'm guessing the high torque starter motor and higher output alternator on the Aveo ( though my car does not have a/c , sunroof, power windows, nor fog-lamps ) requires a high output battery, though I did note that the minimal acceptable load output is 270 amps minimum ( acceptable for recharging- not necessarily cranking an engine over ) meaning a fully charged 375 Optima should just deliver. However, I'll definitely be looking for a higher output item up the road when I look for a lightweight substitute for the stock GM battery.

      Steve
      Last edited by Avezoh; 10-05-2010 at 05:42 AM.

    9. #19
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      braille battery is your best bet in that case. do some research though, you can save money buying the same battery without the braille sticker, but i dont not recall which it is.


    10. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit View Post
      braille battery is your best bet in that case. do some research though, you can save money buying the same battery without the braille sticker, but i dont not recall which it is.
      Bet I can tell by feel!

      Steve





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