Odd problem with radio and domelight on 2009

I've had a 2009 Aveo 5 since it was new. One feature it has is that after the ignition is off and the key is removed, the radio will continue to play until a door is opened. Recently I noticed that the radio did not shut off at all; I had to turn it off manually before leaving the car. Also the dome light, with the switch set to the center position for door activation would not light when the door was open.

Mysteriously, after two days everything returned to normal. From experience I know that most things that malfunction will eventually do so again. I'm thinking it might be a door switch going bad. Any other suggestions or clues?

You're probably right. And it's most likely your driver's door, since it gets the most use. 'Sticking' in the closed position, the radio wouldn't see that you opened the door, and dome light thinks the door is still closed. You could always remove the switch and clean it up.

The radio eventually turns off I believe.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PoisonIvy

You're probably right. And it's most likely your driver's door, since it gets the most use. 'Sticking' in the closed position, the radio wouldn't see that you opened the door, and dome light thinks the door is still closed. You could always remove the switch and clean it up.

The radio eventually turns off I believe.

---

Yep, turns off after 10 minutes. The clock display does too

Sorry for my English, but i had the same problem with door and light (Aveo 1600 Autmatic, 2013). The problemmaker was my usb-stick (64 Gb). I have replaced it with a stick of 4Gb and the problem was gone.

Quote:

---

I've had a 2009 Aveo 5 since it was new. One feature it has is that after the ignition is off and the key is removed, the radio will continue to play until a door is opened. Recently I noticed that the radio did not shut off at all; I had to turn it off manually before leaving the car. Also the dome light, with the switch set to the center position for door activation would not light when the door was open.

---

Now it's doing it again. I removed and checked the door switch, and the switch is fine - the switch is definitely not the problem. If anyone has any insight about how this circuit works I'd like some insight on it.

the door switches provide a ground, which means there is a relay somewhere. maybe its one of the barely visible relays in the dash just box area. I would check that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit

the door switches provide a ground, which means there is a relay somewhere. maybe its one of the barely visible relays in the dash just box area. I would check that.

---

From what I observed it makes sense that you are correct, and I appreciate your input. After checking the driver's door switch (which tested good) to confirm and observe it I swapped it with a rear door switch. When I reinstalled it as the rear door switch, with that rear door open, the switch sparked to ground and lit the dome light, but the driver's door still doesn't.

So where is this mystery relay located? I'd rather not rear the whole dash apart to try to find it. That's what I need to know. :confused:

I found the relay for the accessories which is located in the box under the hood. If I unplug that relay the radio will go off, so it's the right one. I swapped it with the relay for the heater fan, as they are identical. The problem still exists, so it isn't the relay.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram or a schematic for this?

Rabbit said go check the ground, I would do that you have picked all the low hanging fruit on easy stuff to check. One of the wires going to the switch is hot and that's going to the relay. Check the ground inside the relay box to that relay. Pull the relay out and use a multimeter to figure out which is ground (should be marked) and then check continuity to ground on that wire.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by xintersecty

Rabbit said go check the ground, I would do that you have picked all the low hanging fruit on easy stuff to check. One of the wires going to the switch is hot and that's going to the relay. Check the ground inside the relay box to that relay. Pull the relay out and use a multimeter to figure out which is ground (should be marked) and then check continuity to ground on that wire.

---

I still can't figure this out. Here are the tests that I've done. The relay has four contacts. With the relay removed, two of the terminals are always hot (12v) and the other two go to ground, as confirmed by a continuity test. This remains the case whether the driver's door is open or not.

The dome light will light when activated by any door other than the driver's door. What is odd is that all the other doors have two wires going to the switch, but the driver's door only has one. I even checked to see whether a wire might have broken off at the switch, but no, the terminal has only one wire.

Success! :cheers:I found a solution but I still don't know the cause of the problem. :confused:

It occurred to me that since all the other door switches have two wires, and they all activate this circuit, if I could tap into it then the driver's door switch should also work. I noted that one of the wires on the other switches appears to be cream white in color. I located one of that color in the bundle under the threshold of the driver's door. Using a needle pick probe I verified that it was live at 12V. The purple wire that goes to the driver's door switch had a reading of only about 1 volt (although it should have had 12V). The next step was to run that probed wire to ground, and hope that it wouldn't blow a fuse or do anything nasty. When I did, the dome light was activated. Hooray!

The next step was to verify the purple wire as the correct one leading to the switch, as there are two purple wires in that bundle. A continuity test showed that both were continuous with the one that was attached to the switch. Then I needed to bridge the purple with the white wire in the bundle. Since I don't like cutting into wires unnecessarily, I took a 3M tap connector and cut away the portion of the plastic that would usually be used to join a running wire to a single wire. In other words, the clip in the tap would now be used to bridge the two wires without cutting them. I installed the bridge and it works.

But without a schematic, I still have no clue as to what was causing this problem. The problem remains, but the workaround provides a cure.