Possible Throttle body issue on 2010 Aveo?

[2010AveoLT]

I'll do some data logging with my Cen-Tech scan tool tomorrow, and upload the data here, since my car is running okay (mine actually has the 4000 rpm park/neutral limiter since it's an auto)

[Mischif]

I'll do some data logging with my Cen-Tech scan tool tomorrow, and upload the data here, since my car is running okay (mine actually has the 4000 rpm park/neutral limiter since it's an auto)

The one i have is auto as well. Good to know its suppose to have the park/neutral limiter. Can eliminate that as a symptom of whatever is wrong.

Went through all the wiring for the throttle body, no shorts or anything. Also played around with the knock sensor to make sure thats not pulling the timing, it seems fine as well. The one thing my logger wont log is knock. All of you that have offered to post logs, it would be greatly appreciated. Thats the only thing left i can really do is compare to another vehicle.

[petrified.rabbit]

i just went through your thread. I can tell you this about the video, you didn't have (or were not using) the MAF, so I am not sure if you are doing that to get the car to run better, it won't without that hooked up.\

Based on your description, I would replace the spark plugs.

[2010AveoLT]

here is the Throttle Position and TAC Data I pulled as I left my Secondary school this afternoon:

LOAD_PCT(%) 59.2
RPM(/min) 2008
VSS(mph) 9
SPARKADV(¡£) 10
TP(%) 33.3
TP_R(%) 20.0
TP_B(%) 34.1
APP_D(%) 31.0
APP_E(%) 15.7
TAC_PCT(%) 29.8

LOAD_PCT(%) 62.0
RPM(/min) 2587
VSS(mph) 13
SPARKADV(¡£) 10
TP(%) 33.7
TP_R(%) 20.4
TP_B(%) 34.1
APP_D(%) 31.4
APP_E(%) 15.7
TAC_PCT(%) 27.8

LOAD_PCT(%) 50.2
RPM(/min) 2015
VSS(mph) 17
SPARKADV(¡£) 19
TP(%) 31.4
TP_R(%) 17.6
TP_B(%) 31.4
APP_D(%) 24.7
APP_E(%) 11.8
TAC_PCT(%) 20.4

LOAD_PCT(%) 27.5
RPM(/min) 1763
VSS(mph) 18
SPARKADV(¡£) 30
TP(%) 25.1
TP_R(%) 11.4
TP_B(%) 25.1
APP_D(%) 22.7
APP_E(%) 11.0
TAC_PCT(%) 16.9

LOAD_PCT(%) 32.9
RPM(/min) 1148
VSS(mph) 18
SPARKADV(¡£) 2
TP(%) 24.3
TP_R(%) 11.0
TP_B(%) 24.7
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 15.3

LOAD_PCT(%) 34.1
RPM(/min) 1077
VSS(mph) 16
SPARKADV(¡£) -1
TP(%) 23.9
TP_R(%) 10.6
TP_B(%) 24.3
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 14.9

LOAD_PCT(%) 37.6
RPM(/min) 963
VSS(mph) 13
SPARKADV(¡£) -1
TP(%) 23.5
TP_R(%) 9.8
TP_B(%) 23.5
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 14.1

LOAD_PCT(%) 35.3
RPM(/min) 934
VSS(mph) 11
SPARKADV(¡£) 15
TP(%) 29.8
TP_R(%) 16.9
TP_B(%) 30.6
APP_D(%) 27.1
APP_E(%) 13.3
TAC_PCT(%) 25.1

LOAD_PCT(%) 31.8
RPM(/min) 1109
VSS(mph) 11
SPARKADV(¡£) 8
TP(%) 23.9
TP_R(%) 9.8
TP_B(%) 23.5
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 14.5

LOAD_PCT(%) 41.2
RPM(/min) 984
VSS(mph) 7
SPARKADV(¡£) -6
TP(%) 24.3
TP_R(%) 11.0
TP_B(%) 24.7
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 16.1

LOAD_PCT(%) 47.8
RPM(/min) 1287
VSS(mph) 4
SPARKADV(¡£) 18
TP(%) 30.2
TP_R(%) 17.3
TP_B(%) 31.0
APP_D(%) 25.9
APP_E(%) 12.9
TAC_PCT(%) 26.3

LOAD_PCT(%) 52.2
RPM(/min) 1858
VSS(mph) 8
SPARKADV(¡£) 7
TP(%) 24.3
TP_R(%) 10.6
TP_B(%) 23.9
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 13.7

LOAD_PCT(%) 32.2
RPM(/min) 1087
VSS(mph) 6
SPARKADV(¡£) 0
TP(%) 24.3
TP_R(%) 11.0
TP_B(%) 24.7
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 15.7

LOAD_PCT(%) 41.6
RPM(/min) 914
VSS(mph) 0
SPARKADV(¡£) -4
TP(%) 24.3
TP_R(%) 11.0
TP_B(%) 24.7
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 15.3

LOAD_PCT(%) 38.8
RPM(/min) 957
VSS(mph) 0
SPARKADV(¡£) 10
TP(%) 30.2
TP_R(%) 16.9
TP_B(%) 31.0
APP_D(%) 25.9
APP_E(%) 13.3
TAC_PCT(%) 26.3

LOAD_PCT(%) 58.0
RPM(/min) 1755
VSS(mph) 6
SPARKADV(¡£) 11
TP(%) 24.3
TP_R(%) 11.0
TP_B(%) 23.9
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 15.7

LOAD_PCT(%) 100.0
RPM(/min) 2007
VSS(mph) 6
SPARKADV(¡£) 8
TP(%) 63.5
TP_R(%) 50.6
TP_B(%) 65.1
APP_D(%) 84.7
APP_E(%) 42.4
TAC_PCT(%) 76.1

LOAD_PCT(%) 92.5
RPM(/min) 3699
VSS(mph) 19
SPARKADV(¡£) 6
TP(%) 83.9
TP_R(%) 70.6
TP_B(%) 84.3
APP_D(%) 84.7
APP_E(%) 42.4
TAC_PCT(%) 100.0

LOAD_PCT(%) 91.4
RPM(/min) 5312
VSS(mph) 30
SPARKADV(¡£) 18
TP(%) 83.9
TP_R(%) 70.6
TP_B(%) 84.3

APP_D(%) 84.7
APP_E(%) 42.0

LOAD_PCT(%) 11.0
RPM(/min) 3019
VSS(mph) 35
SPARKADV(¡£) 37
TP(%) 23.1
TP_R(%) 13.3
TP_B(%) 27.1
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8

TAC_PCT(%) 13.7

LOAD_PCT(%) 23.9
RPM(/min) 1332
VSS(mph) 33
SPARKADV(¡£) 13
TP(%) 22.7
TP_R(%) 9.4
TP_B(%) 23.1
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 13.7

LOAD_PCT(%) 27.1
RPM(/min) 1285
VSS(mph) 30
SPARKADV(¡£) 5
TP(%) 23.5
TP_R(%) 10.2
TP_B(%) 23.9
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 14.1

LOAD_PCT(%) 30.6
RPM(/min) 1064
VSS(mph) 24
SPARKADV(¡£) -1
TP(%) 24.3
TP_R(%) 10.6
TP_B(%) 24.7
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 14.9

LOAD_PCT(%) 37.6
RPM(/min) 973
VSS(mph) 15
SPARKADV(¡£) -3
TP(%) 23.1
TP_R(%) 9.8
TP_B(%) 23.9
APP_D(%) 24.3
APP_E(%) 14.1
TAC_PCT(%) 24.7

LOAD_PCT(%) 69.8
RPM(/min) 2216
VSS(mph) 16
SPARKADV(¡£) 10
TP(%) 35.3
TP_R(%) 22.0
TP_B(%) 35.7
APP_D(%) 32.9
APP_E(%) 16.5
TAC_PCT(%) 31.0

LOAD_PCT(%) 18.0
RPM(/min) 1876
VSS(mph) 20
SPARKADV(¡£) 16
TP(%) 22.4
TP_R(%) 9.0
TP_B(%) 22.4
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 12.2

LOAD_PCT(%) 28.2
RPM(/min) 1146
VSS(mph) 17
SPARKADV(¡£) 5
TP(%) 23.1
TP_R(%) 9.8
TP_B(%) 23.1
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 13.7

LOAD_PCT(%) 36.1
RPM(/min) 949
VSS(mph) 12
SPARKADV(¡£) 2
TP(%) 23.1
TP_R(%) 9.8
TP_B(%) 23.5
APP_D(%) 19.6
APP_E(%) 9.8
TAC_PCT(%) 13.7

You can tell where I pretty much floored it to get the TPS data at 100% Throttle.

[Mischif]

Thanks for taking the time to post your logs 2010aveolt. Judging by yours i would say mine is operating normally then.

[trvlrs]

2011 Chevy Aveo5

I am have a similar issue with my 2011 Aveo.

It started after driving about a mile or 2, when I depress the gas pedal half way it would lose all power and stall the motor. I would then depress the pedal all the way and the car would take off. then after holding the pedal all the way down several times for bout 2-5 miles it would stop and work normal untill I shut car off or if I drove it slow through a town and had stop and go traffic.

From the research I am doing it really sounds like it is a TPS issue, which means I would need to replace my entire throttle body to get this repaired. I cannot believe that I have such a major problem on a 3 .5 year old car. I should not have such a major problem on such a new vehicle

I have a manual transmission, I believe if I had an auto tranny that my car would be almost useless at this point. but because it is manual I am able to shift when I need to.

Also, my issue has turned into the fact that now no matter what gear I am driving in the engine will not go higher than 4000rpms. I can barely manage to go highway speeds.

It would be nice if anyone knows if replacing the TB actually fixes the problem, that is what I really need to know. I just don't want to waste money buying lots of parts.

[StarbardGuitar]

i just went through your thread. I can tell you this about the video, you didn't have (or were not using) the MAF, so I am not sure if you are doing that to get the car to run better, it won't without that hooked up.\

Based on your description, I would replace the spark plugs.

Lol yes I know that... I did that on purpose because I was trying to show how my throttle body reacts. You can't see that unless I disconnect everything from it including the MAF. I got the ignition coils changed recently, I guess I can look into spark plugs and whether or not they have been replaced recently and if that will help. Thanks.

My car has been getting worse. So now I've got a coolant leak that appears to be in the water pump though I'm not 100% sure because it's hard to really see what I'm looking at from underneath. It's a really slow leak but eventually my check engine light came on and I scanned it and it said something thermostat/radiator related. So I check the level of antifreeze and its near empty. I never thought to check it, so it slowly just drained itself. Now my thermostat is in need of replacement, and it's apparently a dealer item meaning its going to cost a stupid amount for that part that should be fairly cheap. I'm not going to bother with the leak yet, because it's a very slow leak and it's not worth the money and time yet if its the water pump. It also had a period where it would quit on me right after start-up, but thankfully it's not doing that anymore. However, it's been acting wierd lately in other ways as well. Like when I start it and let it warm up, the first couple times I'm below 2k rpm it's barely reacting to the gas pedal even full throttle. Normally it's slow anyways, but when it does this it's extreme. Like you're crawling even when flooring it, then once it hits 2k or so you get kicked back all of the sudden. It will do that for the first couple of shifts then be fine. I don't know what's up with this car, but its a real P.O.S. if you ask me.

[StarbardGuitar]

Also, another thing I've come to realize with my car is that my gas pedal has a small range where you press it and nothing happens. You can push the gas pedal in what feels like maybe a inch before it starts doing anything. It's almost like what happens with drive-by-cables when they get loose but as far as I can tell this is drive-by-wire. I think that is what's causing my car to buck like I was explaining. My theory is that because there's a dead zone, when I push at just the right spot, I'm sort of in and out of that dead zone, so the sensor probably gets some weird reading and that's what causes it to buck. Has anyone else experienced something like this? And would anyone know how to fix that and my awful throttle response time?

[PoisonIvy]

I don't want to come off as being overly harsh, but no car is going to heal itself. Cars need maintenance. Just reading through your posts, it sounds like you loved your 2009 because you didn't have to do anything to it. But your dad did. If your coolant leak is as slow as you say it is, you should have caught it by checking fluid levels under the hood once in a while. And several part suggestions you've considered "pricey", so you haven't done them. While I don't recommend just throwing parts at a car from an internet diagnosis, the least you can do is put 4 $2 spark plugs in your car. If you're unsure of the miles on them change them anyway. That might even fix it! Go through the owner's manual to get a feel for recommended inspections, replacements, etc. Some of it you can do yourself, and it'll also give you a better idea of what might be neglected.

NGK V-Power Nickel 4291 - Spark Plug | O'Reilly Auto Parts

If that doesn't do it, I'd bite the bullet and take it to a better mechanic (maaaaybe even a dealership). I can't speak for your area, but I have a Chevy dealership near me with a solid service department. They'll tell you if your water pump is leaking, or it may only be a hose, or maybe it's the rad and the leak will get worse and leave you stranded.. Pay the hour or so it'll take to diagnose your issue. At that point it may be something you want to tackle yourself to save on labour, or take to your own mechanic.

Again, don't take this the wrong way, I'm just trying to be honest with you. There's a reason why alot of entry-level cars get a bad wrap is it's the owner that's not maintaining them. A $100,000 Mercedes would have issues too if coolant leaks aren't fixed and spark plugs aren't changed.

[StarbardGuitar]

I don't want to come off as being overly harsh, but no car is going to heal itself. Cars need maintenance. Just reading through your posts, it sounds like you loved your 2009 because you didn't have to do anything to it. But your dad did. If your coolant leak is as slow as you say it is, you should have caught it by checking fluid levels under the hood once in a while. And several part suggestions you've considered "pricey", so you haven't done them. While I don't recommend just throwing parts at a car from an internet diagnosis, the least you can do is put 4 $2 spark plugs in your car. If you're unsure of the miles on them change them anyway. That might even fix it! Go through the owner's manual to get a feel for recommended inspections, replacements, etc. Some of it you can do yourself, and it'll also give you a better idea of what might be neglected.

NGK V-Power Nickel 4291 - Spark Plug | O'Reilly Auto Parts

If that doesn't do it, I'd bite the bullet and take it to a better mechanic (maaaaybe even a dealership). I can't speak for your area, but I have a Chevy dealership near me with a solid service department. They'll tell you if your water pump is leaking, or it may only be a hose, or maybe it's the rad and the leak will get worse and leave you stranded.. Pay the hour or so it'll take to diagnose your issue. At that point it may be something you want to tackle yourself to save on labour, or take to your own mechanic.

Again, don't take this the wrong way, I'm just trying to be honest with you. There's a reason why alot of entry-level cars get a bad wrap is it's the owner that's not maintaining them. A $100,000 Mercedes would have issues too if coolant leaks aren't fixed and spark plugs aren't changed.

Yeah, I hear you and I understand what you're saying. I still personally feel like cars should be made to last as long as possible in any way possible, but I suppose that's not possible when you have to cut costs. And I also did have to maintain the other car, I did all the basic stuff like maintaining tire pressure, because the TPMS didn't work in that car and we didn't bother replacing it because it's not hard to check. And I did oil changes, things like that. My brother had the car before me, so that's why you probably think I didn't have to do anything. Essentially, I got lucky and most of the problems got fixed while he had it. During my period of driving it, it did have some weird issue, not sure what it was, but if you drove on the highway for a while then got off the car would make a weird chugging sort of noise and the check engine light would come on, but go off after a couple more starts.

I think my problem is I shouldn't have gotten another Aveo because I'm always going to compare it to my first one, which is so different than this one. Honestly, I'm also just pissed that I had to lose that car because someone wasn't paying attention and totaled my car. I'm just trying to get as many opinions as possible before I start throwing money on this car fixing stuff if it won't work, because I'm a broke teenager haha. I do want to fix it, like I said the only reason I've been putting things off is because of money, and parts can be so expensive. I am going to change the thermostat as soon as possible, because I know that's no good. But, I did find the leak and like I said I think it may be the water pump, but I'm not 100% sure, and it's a very slow leak so I figured it would make more sense to just maintain a good coolant level and then fix the pump or whatever is leaking when it's gotten much worse. I will definitely look into spark plugs, like I was just saying I don't want to keep throwing money at this if it's not going to fix it. But spark plugs are cheap so I will change those when I get the chance. I do appreciate all of the help I've been getting, so thank you to everyone who has contributed their thoughts.

Also, while I'm posting I might as well share the codes I got when I scanned my car. I have a very cheap code reader, so it doesn't give me much info. Just wondering if maybe someone can tell me what the codes mean?

P00B6
P0116 "engine coolant temp ckt range/perf"
P00B6
P00B7
P0116
P0117 "engine coolant temp circuit low input"

I realize some are repeats but that's the way it showed on my scanner.