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    Thread: Rattling Noise-Just Started

    1. #1
      I'll keep it and add a turbo Weirdo_Joe's Avatar
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      Rattling Noise-Just Started

      Ok... 1st problem with my "new to me" Aveo. Got home in my 08 LS 5 spd. tonight, and after the 3rd speedbump in my parking lot, I hear a rattling noise; sounded like right outside my window, driver's side. Like a rock rattling in the hubcap, but I was pretty sure it wasn't that. Says in my "Everything Car Care Book" (idiot's guide, basically. ; ) rock in a tin can sound-that's almost always timing system problems. Bought the car at 29k miles, got 30,000 mile checkup, 'cos for one, there's a knock...they (dealership) warned me of a possible fuel knock if I didn't use at least mid grade gas when I bought the car, but I've read that occurs when you accelerate. I get a rythmic, gentle knocking that speeds up and stops every time I start my car up, when idling the first 30-45 seconds. Also asked about the oil; appeared to be about a 1/4 in. over each of 3 times I checked (oil put in by the dealership) Guy said it was fine then, all of it, 1,000 mi. ago. So, as much as the problem, I wanna find out what caused it... the "knocking"? Oil level? Speed bumps? I always take'em slow. I got a bumper to bumper 3 yr. warranty, so I'm not too worried... but should I drive it to get it fixed, and if so, how far? Any information is greatly appreciated! Between this site, books, car places, and tinkering with my car, I am learning a lot! Thanks, Ya'll!!!



    2. #2
      Timing belt broke, do I keep it? thehunterooo's Avatar
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      wth, i dont know where to begin! how many miles do you have now? I wonder if it is high/low oil pressure, the whole fuel thing is weird, idk, timing might be off? Wouldnt make sense if you no one has touched the belt, no engine light/code?

    3. #3
      I'll keep it and add a turbo Weirdo_Joe's Avatar
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      Yeah, I haven't had anything done yet except new NGK plugs @ 30k. No engine light, no warnings of any kind. And the car is just over 31k now; I've put 2k on it. I did read that if it knocks while idling, it is a sign of worn bearings or something like that. I can't help but think those are related, that and the rattle. Knock was present from day one, rattling just started, about 2 months later... And timing is what the book indicated, too, just from the sound description. ? Gonna have it checked out tomorrow or Fri. They'll give me a go ahead to drive it to te dealership or not; any worsened problems, they gotta pay for.

    4. #4
      Timing belt broke, do I keep it? thehunterooo's Avatar
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      I dont think it is anything major like that, but you never know, might be oil pressure related, but I think it is a simple problem, might even be a sensor, hard to tell, but that "use mid grade fuel" is crap, the car is less effective with higher octs of fuel?

      I have always had some weird noises that went away after a while, Idk but ill go with it lol, at least it is being checked

    5. #5
      I'll keep it and add a turbo Weirdo_Joe's Avatar
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      Right on! I do appreciate the info! I'll post here when I find out what it is! None of my cars ever rattled or made any noise I didn't recognize. I think I've just been lucky! And the mid grade is the minimum octane for the car recommended in the owners manual for my model; it's regular unleaded that's not suggested. Going by the octane rating.

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      sounds like the tin can knocking sound is the sway bar, either the end link or bushing. common problem on earlier high mile aveos, maybe you just go lucky and it went early :P

      what model do you have? i thought all the aveos are made for running regular? they all have the same engines. I would say the mid grade requirement your dealer told you is BS, unless your regular is 85 octane or something. But you say you found it in the manual. The only way i can see this being an issue when the rest of the country is running regular (what elevation are you?) seems like regional thing. What does the sticker on your fuel door say? you have one?

      oil a 1/4 inch high isn't a huge deal, but its not "right" either. based on the size of the oil pan that could be a 1/4 quart. were you level? the car being downhill even a little can make it read high. it seems maybe the dealership added some extra in anticipation that the oil filter would hold it bringing the level back down to the full mark. but the aveo has a smaller filter than most.


    7. #7
      I'll keep it and add a turbo Weirdo_Joe's Avatar
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      The gas here is 85 for regular unleaded; at my gas station, anyways. And word for word, this is what the manual says- (note the last line, if nothing else)
      "Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear a heavy knocking, the engine needs service."
      I've used 87-mid grade every time. I checked the oil in 3 different places, all appearing to be level, but just in case that was it. Good to know, though! That it's not "too much" I would describe the knocking as heavy, though, and ONLY when 1st idling. I am starting to think maybe the car was sold to me, knowing it had problems. I've wondered if my engine has full power, as it takes me 15-16 seconds to get 0-60 mph. On a stopwatch; not Traxx.
      As for the rattling, I drove it a short distance today, and it started out REAL bad; I almost parked it again after backing up 3 ft. It seemed like a rattling-squeal today; a constant screeching, metal on metal sound, with a rattling, too. It kinda went away, after driving another 150 ft or so, still making noise when I turned in the lot, but almost gone by the time I reached the street. It started again after my 1st and only stop, but not near as bad. When I returned, it was gone. ???
      I still have an 8am appointment tomorrow morning that I'll keep; sounds like something is wrong, and the old manufacturer's warranty w/ no deductible at all expires early april. I want my car to run like it should, by then.
      Oh, and I have an LS sedan, and I'd say I'm a lil' higher than Denver-closer to the foothills-maybe 6000 ft?
      Last edited by Weirdo_Joe; 02-17-2011 at 08:27 PM.

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      see, thats what it is, 87 is regular here. ok, makes more sense now.

      starting to sound like wheel bearings or a cv joint now..


    9. #9
      I'll keep it and add a turbo brendan.melanson's Avatar
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      Every time there is an issue with my car, and there isn't a check engine light and it's still chugging along I go "Well, can't be serious".

      Sounds like wheel bearings to me though, you can check them yourself if you can jack up your car or get it up on a hoist. That's how I found out my two were going, besides the rattling/rumble.

    10. #10
      I'll keep it and add a turbo Weirdo_Joe's Avatar
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      Well, the car was worked on Saturday... it was the bushings, afterall! ;D Good call, rabbit! Lower control arm bushings binding and making noise. They "repositioned and lubricated right and left control arm bushings" ... It didn't make a sound on Saturday... still made a slight sqeal early on Sunday, 1st time getting up to 40... SLIGHT.... compared to sounding like a wheel was being cut off with a chainsaw. With a loose blade. Anywayz! We'll see if it makes noise tomorrow... is there a chance the lubricant has just spread enough to cover the bushings? And MOST of all, I'd like to know if this is a VERY temporary fix; again, manufacturers warranty expires beginning of April; after that, I have a $500 deductible. If it's a long term problem that they're just covering up, I wanna get it fixed right! Thanks again, all you guys helping troubleshoot!





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