I need a wheel bearing, but its riding pretty rough and slugish. After the wheel bearing and an oil change should be good?
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I need a wheel bearing, but its riding pretty rough and slugish. After the wheel bearing and an oil change should be good?
it depends on what rough and sluggish means?
if the wheel bearing is making it rough, then it should be fixed by replacing the wheel bearing, you would want to check bushings and mounts as well though..
the sluggishness might be sightly improved with an oil change, i always seem to feel like an improvement after one. but its "undefined as a fix" for sluggishness.. you might just need a tune up, or something else.
Alright, am I able to change the bearing myself from home? I just got a new one today. Is it safe to drive around even with the broken one? I've put around 1,000KMs on it in the last two days with it like that but after giving the tires a little spin it sounded a little worse.
I got a new bushing on that side, I know what a bushing sounds like when it's either going or gone. I didn't check mounts though, don't have money for that kind of repair yet so hopefully after the bearing I'll be good.
the bearing may need pressed, but you could pull the spindle, and then take the spindle and new bearing to a ______ store (like firestone, mr tire etc) and have them press it for you if need be. Then you put it back in yourself.
How would I go about doing that, just jack up the car in the driveway, take off the wheel and then what? There's a garage down the road from my house that would have a press.
just take all all the bolts attached to the spindle :P
it would be the ball joint, two top strut bolts, axle nut, brakes caliper, rotor, abs sensor if you have one, and the tierod end.
might be good to disconnect the sway bar end link so you can move the strut around..
****, last time I disassembled my wheel area to change my control arm bushing I finished off the damaged ball joint and needed to leave my car at school to change that.
Do I need a press for sure to do the bearing? We don't have one at school, and I don't have the money to get it fixed by a mechanic.
"freshly" installed balljoints usually pop back out easier than old ball joints..
but you could leave the joint in the spindle since it is new, and unbolt it from the arm.. it wont be in the way.
Alright, any chance I could get the bearings in without using a press?
You might be able to get it out with a punch and hammer, but there is no way you're going to put it in without a press, puller or bearing installer.
if you have the old on out and shave it don so it is no longer press fit, (drops in,falls out) then you can use the old race to tap in the new bearing. I've done thing for toyota bearings, make them @ 1mm undersized, cut two tabs in the to ease pulling them back out, and then use them to hammer in the new bearings.. it works and its "free" tools, that you might reuse.
but i also have a press.
Alright, well there's a couple of guys in the automotive shop that are pretty good with this stuff. Whenever we changed my control arm bushing we pushed it out on our own, and pushed the new one almost in on our own but it just wouldn't go and we ran outta time so buddy left the car on the hoist then they just decided to use the press at a farmers house down the road. The bad thing was my ball joint got slaughtered during the process, so hopefully I don't go through anymore parts. I'll let you know how it goes.
However, I still have this winding electric sound coming somewhere in the engine. Any ideas?
if it is a winding sound, its most likely belt driven, or the starter. unless its an automatic on acceleration, then it could be a few other things.
It's standard, and it gets louder on acceleration. I'm assuming seperntine belt pulley a little lose?
based on all your threads, i am willing to beat the power steering pump might be going bad.
But why would this sound get louder on acceleration if it's the power steering pump? It doesn't do it when I go into neutral or slow down, or stop with the gas haha.
I know the fluids low, but it's still pumping it through. The steering only started acting up when it went really cold. It's at the min level even after filled up, maybe it just needs topped up?
you said you have a noise in another thread that i thought sounded like belt driven accessory. that would be amplified at higher rpm. you said the power steering is frozen or something (i forget really), and not working properly. those two problems to me sound like if they are related its the pump.
Rabbit's right, I'd change the fluid in the pump asap before you damage the pump. It might already be too late.
anything driven off the drive belt (alternator, power steering, a/c compressor, belt tensioner) all have pulleys that the belt rides on. when your at idle, the engine is turning at roughly 900 RPMs, they drive belt is moving, when you speed up, the RPMs go higher which in turn means your belt is moving faster which means the pulleys are rotating faster which will amplify the noise. one thing you can do, get a really long screwdriver, have someone rev the engine, put the metal end of the screwdriver right by each individual pulley (be careful not to get the belt, while the screwdriver is touching right beside each pulley put your ear to the other end of the screwdriver and you should be able to tell which pulley is producing the most nois. but with it being said your powersteering is acting up, I would be inclined to agree with a few others on hear that your issue would be the power steering pump. power steering can have a few issues, an internal issue you would have a growling when turning the wheel, a pump issue you hear a change in noise as engine RPM changes. a leak you should beable to see visually along with hearing a growling when fluid gets to low
Yup, it's a growling when turning the wheel but it's been doing it for a bit and mostly during cold weather. Is there a way of fixing it without replacing the pump?
Secondly, fixed the wheel bearing. Now there's a new sound coming form that area, could it be a axle or CV Joint? They look to be fine but what's some warning signs? Should I take it off the road? How much are each? - It's driving completely fine other then the fact it now needs an alignment.
Growling in steering is generally a sign that you do not have enough fluid, their is air in the system, or the fluid is contaminated or incorrect, if their are no leaks, you should have someone flush your power steering system.Quote:
Originally Posted by brendan.melanson
What is the new sound? cv axles in most cases have a clicking sound when turning, if the stake nut was not properly tightened down, that can cause movement inside of the inner wheel bearing race which will ruin the new bearing, if damage was done to the ball joint that will cause unwanted movement, if brake pads and calipers were installed incorrectly, unfortunately their are too many components that can cause movement which results in noise to try and get you in the right area
if your alignment is that far off you could be hearing the tire wearing. you need to be better at describing these sounds, we can't hear them, don't know when you have them or when they go away, etc.
Alright, so I should get the fluid flushed and replaced, or should I just top it up?
The new sound is a little bit of a light metal grinding sound, but at the same time it could sound like the tread stubs wearing off - You know the little pricks of rubber on the side of tires, it could be that hitting the ground and wearing, it kind of sounds that way.
The brakes are working fine, I'm almost 100% everything was installed correctly. I think I'll have them check the stake nut at school, but it does get louder when you turn hard but doesn't sound like a CV or Axle because there isn't any clicking.
My Aveo has seen better days...
Make sure your power steering reservoir is full, also check the condition of the fluid, it should almost be clearif it is dark, starting to look the color of engine oil definitely have it flushed. Honestly you shoudnt need to top it of unless their is a leak somewhere. Look along all the components for your steering system if you physically do not see any fluid, their may be an internal leak inside the rack and pinion. the groaning sound while turning is from not having enough lubrication in the rack or a bad pump. when your reservoir is full and cap installed, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock (left stopping point and right stopping point) about 10 times kind of slow then center you wheels and turn the car car off. remove the reservoir cap and let it sit for a little while, this will generally get the air out of you steering system if any. then replace reservoir cap start car and turn wheels lock to lock again if sound is still present and fluid level is still goodit may be time for a new pump or rack.
the new sound, unfortunately its hard to take a guess, generally speaking a metal sound that changes with speed, is usually (not always) bearing or brakes. even though you just replaced the bearing, if the stake nut on the end of the cv shaft was not properly secured (not tight enough or too tight) can kill a new bearing, if the bearing was not properly installed, it can make noise. Hopefully your issue is something else, bearings are a pain and not overly cheap as Im sure you just found out. your best bet is to find someone you trust to take it for a test drive so they can actually hear the noise.
It's a little bit above the minimum level, hot. When cold pretty much below it. I checked everywhere for leaks, not a drop is leaking anywhere. It's like a dark wine red or almost black, what's that mean? Ha. So what your saying is, get it flushed, then after do the steering lock to lock about 10 times each way slowly but consistently and it should be good to go if it's not a bad pump?
How do you flush the fluid? No idea how, but I could probably do it from school if I get some new fluid. I did however have a power steering issue before I went away in December, Seperntine belt snapped and Canadian Tire put on a new one, they also put the hose too close to it and the belt cut the hose so it leaked there. Pump went dry, lost power steering, they replaced the hose and the belt free of cost. Maybe because that whole situation happened, it's their fault the pump is going or it's broke now? Could I tr and hold them liable for it? It does make sense in my head, and to my automotive teacher.
topping off your reservoir and turning lock to lock would be something to do now, its a way of bleeding air out of your steering system.
Now keep in mind I am not there to physically see what you are describing, but, from your description of what happened at the tire store, a cut hose will leak out your steering fluid, no fluid going through the pump can definitely burn the pump. after replacing the hoses and filling the system, without bleeding the air out, you would end up having a fluid level below what is normal. new fluid going through a burnt pump will get dark. If you have any receipts from them replacing the hose (anything showing they worked on your power steering) for power steering, I would definitely take it back. If you do not have any record (receipt) of them working on your power steering, if they do not want to own up to what they did or try to help you out, it could become a "he said she said". as for flushing the system, I am not sure of a do it at home method, i have a power steering flush machine I use at work.
Well they didn't give me a receipt but it's on the computer record there at Canadian Tire with my phone number. Here's how it happened, on one day they replaced the belt but moved the hose to close to the belt, the belt chafed the hose and it leaked and all the fluid went out - Lost power steering, and this was about 3 weeks after the belt being changed. So I took it in, with little to none argument the agreed it was indeed their fault. They replaced the hose, flushed the system, put in new fluid and away I went - No growling or anything, then a little later it started just when we got the lower temperatures.
So I'll go lock to lock and see what happens, but if that doesn't work, what should I do? Just go into Canadian Tire and be like you did this work on my car which broke the hose which then got replaced but because the hose broke the pump was running dry and now it's burnt out. How do I get them to do it for free? Because it is their responsibility but they could say "it could have gone anyway".
thats about it, its most likely their fault, as they caused a failure that drained the pump, you have documentation.
a dry pump will have scarring in the bearings in a few minutes, that scarring will start to leak, and make noise after a while. how long has it been since the work was done? if it hasnt been very many km, they might own up to it, if its been 1000s, your going be putting in you own pump, or converting to manual..
Okay, going into Canadian Tire tomorrow.
As for the bearing, whenever I'm going it's making a whistling sound of some sort almost. However, as soon as I touch the brakes it stops?
Could it just be a brake pad touching the rotor or something of such? Tire wobbles a little bit, but I think the bearing is in properly and everything
could be brakes, could be the bearing issue still, its hard to pin point a noise over reading a post on the internet.
if it stops when hitting the brake, i would start with the brakes. its very easy for disassembled brakes to make noise when put back together. the wobbling wheel could be alignment, rotor mounting screw, balance, or bearing.
Alright, I'm going to Canadian Tire tonight and having a word with the manager about the situation. I'll let you know what's up then! There's been a lot of KM but it hasn't been that long since it's been done, December maybe? As for the sound from the wheel, Monday I'm gonna have the alignment done and all tires balanced and rotated as well as getting my ****ty hub caps taken off, we'll also tighten the stake nut and check everything out there and see how it goes.
I'll post back my results, thanks for your help rabbit, I owe you one and same to anyone else who has commented. Not trying to pick favorites but rabbit has been an active helper in keeping my Aveo5 alive.
My 06' svm with 87k miles is in a similar state. For me potholes have messed up my wheel balance, along with a bad alignment, enough to cause my steering wheel to wobble when going down the highway.
I now think I need a wheel bearing as I have low humm/growl, at highway speeds. The sound goes with the speed of the car and regardless of any left or right sway. I'm thinking front wheel bearings, but maybe its just the alignment being way out of whack?
A wobbling tire is not a good sign, that could be a ball joint that is really bad, new bearing wasnt pressed in properly, spindle to strut bolts may not be properly secured outer tie rod end could be shot. I would not drive the car more than you absolutely have to until you get it properly repaired. driving with a wobbling tire could lead to worn ball joint, bad tie rod, bad rack and pinion, bad bearing, even a bad strut
Most shops, if you go in for an alignment, wont touch the car with a wobbling wheel, in most cases, they should atleast tell you what it needs before an alignment is done thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by brendan.melanson
Tires need balanced and rotated.