Timing Belt Replacement!

[JLAveo07]

Hey guys,

I'm at 51k miles, and I'm thinking that I should replace the timing belt on my 2007 Aveo LT. Anyway, I was wondering if you all still recommend changing the water pump, idler pulley, and tensioner pulley as well? If so, what would replacing all of this most likely cost?

How much did the Chevy dealership charge you all for a timing belt replacement?

Thanks much!

[y2dgone]

It's been awhile since I've had mine done, but I believe it took them 4 hours, don't let them double dip you on the labor though since they have to take some of those parts off anyway. So that times whatever their labor rate is. I do recommend finding out how much they want for parts though and see if you can find them cheaper at AutoZone or some other place. You say you have 51k on the car? Yeah it is about time you start looking into replacing the belt then because you are suppossed to do it at 60k. As for the pump and pulleys... have them inspected, if they look fine you can save some money by not doing them, but then again if you go ahead and replace them then you shouldn't have to worry about them for awhile.

[Wolfman AK907]

+1 Preventative Maintenance my friend. Better pay for it now and get peace-of-mind before you really pay for it later.

[thehunterooo]

ive heard 70k is a good time, but i am paranoid and would not go past 50k, ive had some close encounters with my lanos

[Wolfman AK907]

The sooner the better. You're gonna end up doing it anyways. Better safe than sorry.

[thehunterooo]

or you will be swapping out an engine

[Monzaveo]

I'm doing mine myself, and writing up a how-to.

If you do it yourself (if you have decent tools and skills) you can do it for around $150.

I'm trying to decide if I should use Dayco products (cheapest w/ parts bought individually) or a Contitech kit- most expensive

Or a mix of stuff with a Gates belt, like the original one.

[rfleming]

I just did my timing belt...put it off way too long at 81000 miles. I went with OEM (Gates). I have always liked Gates belts and always try to use them.

One thing my Dad helped me with was to make my own water pump tool. I took an old adjustable wrench, cut off 3 inches of handle and heated it with an oxy-acetylene torch and bent it at about 45 degrees...saves you knuckles and a lot of cussing!

My pulleys looked fine and the water pump didn't leak after I was done. Biggest pain in the @$$ was getting it times. the "rear" valve bank is under spring tension and would dip the rear cam forward enough to be off one tooth...and then even once I had that right getting the belt to stay in place while I added tension with the water pump was a shore. Solution was a cam wrench and bailing wire to hold the cam in position and then I wedged some pipe insulation on the top of the belt to hold it in place. Could do it again now with my eyes closed but it was trial and error this first time. I must have tightened and un-tightened the water pump 60 damn times!

If any one wants to see a pic of my "patented" tool let me know...if I can save just one person some frustration I went through I would feel happy

[Monzaveo]

Or you can just go to my online how-to (although I admit I still have to finish the end part up)

And see a trick I used to keep the belt timing when the sprockets move just like you said.

If you take off the inner motor mount (4 easy bolts) you can rotate the water pump with regular sized vice grips.

See it here:
http://www.aveodiy.blogspot.com

[khan4rtist]

...Biggest pain in the @$$ was getting it times. the "rear" valve bank is under spring tension and would dip the rear cam forward enough to be off one tooth...

I had the same problem, I ordered this tool, i highly recommend it because you are going to struggle without it.

http://www.directool.com/dtProductDe...262E5752N11505