wheel cuts when i hit the brakes

[HeavyDuty]

Yes that's how I bleed as well start with the wheel furthest from the mc...I will try the diagonal bleed on here and see what happens. I don't have ABS, since I changed the swaybar it pulls now to the ps not the drivers anymore....swaybar should not have changed that pull, but jacking the car up the way I did may have shifted the air in the system...

This car had great brakes when brand new at 8500Km the rear axle was changed and it hasn't had proper brakes since, I am betting now it was bleed wrong when they changed that rear axle....I will find out by changing the bleed pattern, and using the 20 seconds between pumps to prevent aeration of the fluid.

[HeavyDuty]

Ok did this today, jacked rear of car up so master cylinder was level. I tried vacuum pump but was getting some air leaks with it. So I switched back to the two person bleed. I did RR,LF,LR,RF...traced the lines from the mc and it is a diagonal system. I used 20 seconds between pumps to prevent aeration, that is only suppose to be required for steep master cylinders but gets you a better bleed on any system.

I noted some air from RL the rest where good. It does seem to brake more evenly but I am still getting the odd steering wheel positions...pulled up into a parking stall and car going straight ahead but as I brake the wheel slowly turns left...but no change to the direction of car travel.....and still pulls right or left while stopping.

The bushing labeled 49 on this schematic....I can't get a part number for it, but it sure looks to me like mine are worn out, I am wondering if this might be the cause of the wheel cutting. Numbers 21 and 22 secure this/a bushing to the car, they are calling it a shock absorber of sorts.

[HeavyDuty]

Pic 1, is the new swaybar
Pic 2, shows thickness of new bar
Pic 3, shows thickness of OEM bar in the 2009 Aveo
Pic 4, shows OEM swaybar bushing brackets don't fit onto new MOOG bushings.
Pic 5, shows the solution, approx 1/4 inch trimmed off each side of the OEM bushing brackets and it slips right onto the new MOOG poly bushings. I filled the raised portion of the OEM bracket with filler to accommodate the change in bushing design.

You will need to trim some of the bottom of the replacement MOOG bushings off to get a nice snug fit again it was about a 1/4 inch and I used a cutoff saw on those.

[HeavyDuty]

I bled the brake system two more times with about a week in between with the procedure I outlined in a previous post. I noted air each time, from the rear bleed screws only the front are bubble free. I also noted the brake fluid seems to be contaminated with something, white chunks suspended in the fluid in the photo. My car had the rear axle replaced at 8500 KM, so the brake lines had been disconnected to the rear axle....and the white chunks seem to only be coming from the rear bleed screws.

It does improve the wheel cut issue significantly, I have actually been able to make a stop without hands on the wheel which prior wasn't even a possibility. My brake system had been worked on so the opportunity for air entry was present and the car didn't cut, prior to that work.

[HeavyDuty]

Well I have at long last determined the differences between the rear axle that is suppose to be installed in my car and the axle that a GM dealership installed under warranty.

The 96653128 fits a sedan which I do not have and that's what they installed. The 96494500 fits the hatch and that is what I should have and rear tracking width on the sedan sits around 56.3 and the hatch 55.5. I have to wonder what Henry Ford would say about this situation. Good going GM, 3 years of chewing off tires and a car that is unsafe at any speed...all created by your very own dealership.....