So I busted a stud off on my front wheel hub while rotating the tires, and since it's only a 4 lug hub, I thought I'd better replace it . In addition I have over 170k miles on the car, so I'm thinking I should go ahead and change the front wheel bearing as well. Did some research and can't tell if the knuckle needs to be removed also. Can some one shed some light on this for me ?
Thanks in advance
Whitefish posted a nice write-up a few years ago on his DIY hub removal tool. So if you really want to keep the knuckle on the vehicle, that's the way to go (or you can buy the Chevy bearing tool for $125). I read another one from a guy who spent 2 hours messing with a slide hammer, so that didn't sound like a very good method.
I chose to remove the knuckle/hub, which is really easy on our Aveos. After the knuckle was off the vehicle, I drove the hub out using a socket, and then used a bearing adapter set for the remaining 3 steps. All of that work was quick and painless on both sides, and if you have a press it should be even easier.
The worst part of this job (by far) for me were the rusted-in-place snap rings. It took around half an hour each to work those rings free, because they were completely locked in place with rust all the way around. Lots of LW, along with poking and prying gradually worked them free one small section at a time. I'm not sure if industrial strength, heavy duty snap pliers would free the rings or just bend them, but I don't own professional pliers like that anyway.
I removed the rings on a workbench, and frankly can't imagine doing it hunched down low if the knuckle is still on the vehicle. Depending on where you live in Va, your Aveo may or may not have the rings rusted in. If they're not badly locked in place, this entire job should be really quick and easy for you (assuming you have an adequate bearing tool).
One other tool I'd HIGHLY recommend, if you don't already have one, is a separator like the one below, for the LCA and tie rod end. I wasn't completely confident a low priced tool like this would be sturdy enough, but after using it a few times it seems to be well made. However I still cover it with a small blanket while torquing, just in case it did ever explode. Pickle forks work but usually destroy the joint, and hitting the knuckle with a hammer is primitive when compared to a separator like this one.
Abn Universal Ball Joint Separator | eBay
Thanks for the info.... I see now...Correct me if I'm wrong. The wheel bearing is in the knuckle, and not the hub on my Aveo. I'll start by just removing the hub using a hub removal tool and look how bad the snap rings look.
Technically the bearing is located in between, with the outer race 'attached' to the knuckle and the inner race 'attached' to the hub. When the hub is pulled or driven out of the knuckle, the bearing remains in the knuckle. Then the snap ring is removed from the knuckle and the bearing gets pressed out of the knuckle.
However, the inner bearing race may come out with, and still be attached to the hub. In that case you'll need to carefully cut the race partially through with an angle grinder or Dremel, and then split it open with a cold chisel. Once it's split, it will easily come off the hub. I had one race attached to the hub, but the other side stayed with the rest of the bearing in the knuckle.
So you already own a tool that will pull the hub out of the knuckle while still on the vehicle? If so, you might help others by posting the make/model and how much it cost you. I couldn't find any reasonably priced hub removal tool when I did this job last year (slide hammers excluded), but maybe I missed seeing the tool you own. Or are you planning on building a tool, similar to what whitefish did?
Last edited by avguy; 08-14-2016 at 07:08 PM.
Tools 27037 Front Wheel Drive Wheel Bearing Hub Puller | eBay
This is the tool I plan to buy off Feebay to pull the hub off. If I understand you correctly, I may have to replace the bearing anyway if the bearing seperates
Given the reasonably low cost of a bearing, I'd plan on replacing it regardless if it separates or not.
I'm not sure about that tool you posted. I think more of a bridge is needed, but have no first or second hand experience with it, so I'll just provide a couple of references to a couple of other things that might help figure out if that one will work or not.
Here's the tool that Chevy mechanics supposedly use to work on Aveo bearings:
Kent Moore Tool J 37105 Front Hub Bearing Puller Remover Tool Set | eBay
And here's the DIY tool from whitefish, if you have not already seen it:
http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f94/h...-bridge-14248/
Originally Posted by avguy
Thanks for your time and input avguy.....Is it true, that there is a snap ring on both sides of the bearing ?
One more thing...Was it difficult putting the splined hub back on the steering axle ? I don't believe one wants to pound it on and damaging the seal or bearing in the transfer case.
There is one snap ring per knuckle, and one was way more than enough in the case of my Aveo. But in contrast to those RPITA snap rings, the hub came out, and went back into the axle as smooth as silk. Nothing more than a bit of a wiggle, and a pull/push with my hands. Don't know if that's always the case, but it was on both sides of mine.
Finally found a good YouTube video avguy on replacing the front bearings, and you were right on. As soon as he pulled the hub off, the race of the bearing came with it and the ball bearings were falling out all over the place. I believe I got a good handle on what it takes now, so I'll get my tools and parts in place before I begin. This video showed replacing the bearing with the knuckle still attached to the car. Also he pressed the bearing out towards the transaxle and I'm wondering why one couldn't pressed them out outwards. Anyway, I believe I'm going to remove the knuckle on mine. Replace the struts and top strut bushings as I know they are all worn out as well.
Again, thanks for having your ear on this matter....
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