Whitefish posted a nice write-up a few years ago on his DIY hub removal tool. So if you really want to keep the knuckle on the vehicle, that's the way to go (or you can buy the Chevy bearing tool for $125). I read another one from a guy who spent 2 hours messing with a slide hammer, so that didn't sound like a very good method.

I chose to remove the knuckle/hub, which is really easy on our Aveos. After the knuckle was off the vehicle, I drove the hub out using a socket, and then used a bearing adapter set for the remaining 3 steps. All of that work was quick and painless on both sides, and if you have a press it should be even easier.

The worst part of this job (by far) for me were the rusted-in-place snap rings. It took around half an hour each to work those rings free, because they were completely locked in place with rust all the way around. Lots of LW, along with poking and prying gradually worked them free one small section at a time. I'm not sure if industrial strength, heavy duty snap pliers would free the rings or just bend them, but I don't own professional pliers like that anyway.

I removed the rings on a workbench, and frankly can't imagine doing it hunched down low if the knuckle is still on the vehicle. Depending on where you live in Va, your Aveo may or may not have the rings rusted in. If they're not badly locked in place, this entire job should be really quick and easy for you (assuming you have an adequate bearing tool).

One other tool I'd HIGHLY recommend, if you don't already have one, is a separator like the one below, for the LCA and tie rod end. I wasn't completely confident a low priced tool like this would be sturdy enough, but after using it a few times it seems to be well made. However I still cover it with a small blanket while torquing, just in case it did ever explode. Pickle forks work but usually destroy the joint, and hitting the knuckle with a hammer is primitive when compared to a separator like this one.

Abn Universal Ball Joint Separator | eBay