I read a few post on here about broken clocks, that do not save settings after the ignition is turned off. Here is a write up and a simple way to fix the clock without paying $100 (outright absurd!).
1.) Remove the clock cover. It comes off very easily with a narrow screwdriver. Just pry it up at the front (halfway to the right and halfway to the left). Then pry it up around the cover. Do not worry about breaking it. Its pretty robust and not the end of the world if you do break it. It will work fine missing a peg. Really though, do not worry!
2.) You will then see two phillips head screws holding the clock in. Unscrew those.
3.) There is a connector in the back which is easy to get off. Press at the top of the connector and and then pull.
4.) The clock has tabs all around it. again, easy to pry them up and pull the clock apart. It will be self explanatory at this point. just pull it apart!
When you get to the circuit board, you may notice some slight burn marks around some of the solder joints. If you look closer (magnifying glass if you have one) you will see tiny cracks on the solder joints. These are called cold solders and happen when someone does not solder correctly.
I must say, my clock looks like it was soldered in a high-school soldering class. It was very poorly done. It makes me wonder how the modules look in these cars. If you are having any issues with modules or ECU, etc. I highly recommend pulling it apart and checking the solder joints, before you pay hundreds for a new one. Rarely do things get shorted and blow capacitors or resistors. Though, even when that happens the repair cost is i the pennies. Capacitors usually cost around $0.12. Though, you will most likely find a cold solder.
The clock is so poorly soldered, I just went ahead and re soldered everything. You can just touch the solder joints with a soldering iron ($10 or less on ebay). I add a small amount of solder to each joint just because I had it available. Re-heating it will be enough though. Be sure to hold it there for about 1.5 -3 seconds depending on your soldering iron. I had my soldering iron at about 20 watts. If you have a hotter one, you want to hold it there less. Hold the soldering iron on the solder joint just enough to melt the solder and then give it another .5 seconds before pulling it away. Most of the crack will be found on the opposite side of the big white connector. I recommend doing any solder that looks even partially like a crack. So you do not have to do this again anytime soon!
Here are some photos of the circuit board on mine where you can see the cold solders (I lost count of how many there are):
You can see the clock cover in this photo. If you look closely you will see the two tabs in the front (bad photo is hiding them in the shadow...). This is near where you want to pry with the screwdriver. You do not need to be right at that location. Slightly off is better since the flex of the plastic will help pull it lose. I pulled mine about in between the middle and where the tabs are.
On this last photo you will notice two rows of 5 solders. The 5th and 10th solder (last in these rows) is most likely the culprit. You can see the circle in the square. This is the crack (cold solder).
Thats it! I think you will be surprised that it is actually fixed and that you now have a skill that will hopefully save you from paying too much money for parts that you can fix yourself for free!