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RedI figured out how to read my vacuum tester, its sitting at 70kpa when idle, which whould equal out to roughly 21in-hg, 500mm-hg+/-
I figured out how to read my vacuum tester, its sitting at 70kpa when idle, which whould equal out to roughly 21in-hg, 500mm-hg+/-
I'm assuming the units for your MAP reading are IN/HG, correct? My '05 MAP reading is 10.6 IN/HG at a (warm) 860 RPM idle. So if your 10.6 is at idle, then that reading is right where it's supposed to be. And the TPS % at idle on mine is 11.76, which again is vey close to what you're seeing.Originally Posted by Z3r0x01
Ok, now with both o2 sensors unplugged it stays in ol but with both plugged in it goes into cl the ol_fault
Is the reading holding steady now at idle? Your vacuum reading is a bit higher than mine, but 21 IN/HG is in the normal range, and altitude may be part of the difference in our readings. But if the engine is running correctly, the gauge should be holding a steady reading at idle (or any other constant RPM).
Did you have the battery disconnected for an extended period of time (i.e. long enough to lose the radio presets)? If not, then perhaps the current misfire is being caused by prior 'learned' timing data still stored in the ECM. If that information has not been flushed out, it might be leading engine management astray. But that's just speculation, and it's certainly possible that something could still be wrong and causing an active misfire.
Battery had been dead for a while, and had been replaced and yes the vacuum is steady, with both o2 sensors unplugged the reading stays at .440 for both
If the purge valve is bad would it cause the engine to "rich" out? Black plugs, random misfire code, etc?
Ok scratch the evap thought, i think I'm chasing a broken/chafed wire, my ckp sensor is looking like its getting"hot" in the plug connection, and when i turn on the key and test the harness connector i get a reading from the +12v side and from the signal lead, and both are reading the same voltage, so I'm assuming there may be a wire broken or chafed in the harness, any thoughts before i start gutting the wiring?
One thing for certain is that it won't start or run if there's a really bad crank signal. Ripping wiring apart is the worst possible repair, and you shouldn't consider doing that until a bad crank signal waveform is confirmed with a scope (with the engine running or cranking).
Are you currently getting fuel trim readings? Also, did you get a chance to redo the compression test?
Fuel trim in st is reading around -3.8 to 0.8, but it stays in cl and once it starts to read LT by then i have the p0300 and it goes to ol_fault, but before ol_fault the LT reading is around 0.8
And 2nd compression test showed 190 across all 4
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