2007 Suzuki Swift+ P0301 Shaking at Idle

[Arrakark]

Great thread. Enjoyed reading through the whole thing and congrats on your nice Aveo. I like doing these things and my Aveo has a replaced engine a few years back that it runs a little quicker lol! Even after driving other Aveo's I noticed mine is quite lighter on it's feet, although it is slightly modded. I've got some mods in the futur and enjoy driving it. What I want to do is clean the injectors and do some paint corrections myself, no need for some of the other stuff for me, like filters here and there, fluids, seals and pumps, belts etc, because they're still in excellent condition from the swap back then, with new parts. �� Try getting a drill pad and buffing compound on the headlight and you'll clear them up like a window (just put masking tape around the hood and bumper to not cut the clear too much from contact) Then clean your car and put ceramic wax coating to keep the finish and headlights protected for some months. I'll let you know later which product I use and trust, and it works! I use it on my freshly built Corvette too.

Haha thanks! How was the process for replacing the engine? Any special tools other than the crane needed? I imagine you had to take all of the fluids out including the transmission fluid? I thought of pulling the engine, but I thought that there's no way I'd be able to find a low-mileage engine for this old of a car lol!

Sorry for the questions lol, but how did you want to try the paint corrections? Yeah I was planning on getting a rotary tool and buffing with some 1000-3000 grit sandpaper and then going to the compounds. I put wax on them already but ceramic coat is probably a better idea. I thought of also just putting a layer of UV stable clearcoat, but not the good 2k stuff, just the 1k. Let me know what you use!

As for my update, here's what I worked on recently:

• Changed oil and oil filter
• Changed transmission fluid and transmission fluid filter
• Did the front brake pads and rotors

The oil and filter were very easy. Jacked up the car; drained oil, took filter off, replaced filter, then closed up the plug and put the new filter on. Made sure not to double-gasket the oil filter, and also replaced the plug as well. Tightened to 26 ft-lbs as per this post. I found that a rubberized strap wrench made the filter come off really easy; but only when I figured out how to use it properly! Hint: the strap has to go down towards your hand and not the side. I slightly overfilled the oil; but it's such a small overfill that I didn't bother draining it.



One note about jacking up the car, if you can, don't jack up at the recommended jacking points (located near the tires; they have little notches them). I found that mine would begin to deform!! I found the front and rear cross-members to be a much better place to jack. Putting a piece of wood on the jack would spread the force nicely since these areas are also almost perfectly flat.

Later on I realized that I didn't need to jack up the car to change the fluids. I was skinny enough to fit under the car to reach the oil pan, and the transmission fluid is super easily accessible near the front-left tire when you turn the steering wheel to the left. It's almost like this car was designed to have the maintenance done by regular people!



One thing I wish I did was accurately measure the oil while replacing it. I didn't have any spare containers to measure this stuff with, and the marks on my oil drain pan didn't have numbers and were on the inside of the container. What a bad design!

After that I went through the process of replacing the front rotors and pads. I found that the old pads and rotors were really rusted and most likely warped, since they didn't appear totally flat, brakes would squeak, and the car steering would oscillate when braking. I found that replacing these components fixed all that! I found that ChrisFix's video was almost a perfect guide on how to replace these parts.

First thing I did was remove the caliper. Two bolts with an impact gun. Thankfully, my pins and pin seals were in very good condition, so I didn't see a need to re-lubricate them. Make sure to pop out the brake line rubber mount to prevent strain on the brake line. I then took off the knuckle; two larger bolts.



I had two phillips #3 screws holding the rotors in place. I couldn't get them with a screwdriver, so I went out to the store and bought some impact bits. Got them out in a few seconds. I believe these are either from the factory, or have been reinstalled onto another set of rotors. If they are from the factory, that suggests that these rotors have never been replaced!



After a thorough cleaning with brushes and brake cleaner, I used anti-seize lubricant on the areas in the image.



Then it was a matter of putting everything together, while replacing the brake pads and hardware. A caliper spreader was needed to give enough room for the new brake pads. I placed medium-strength, blue thread-locker on all of the bolts. I believe the total cost of parts was just under $150 with shipping. Totally worth it though! Stops on a dime now.



Then I moved onto the transmission fluid and filter. Again, I used Chris' video as a guide. I was pleasantly surprised to see the pan in such an accessible location on the car. I used the drain plug to first drain all of the fluid, then I took the pan off to replace the filter and pan gasket. The filter came out with three bolts. The filter looked a bit dirty, especially on the outside of the filter!



I replaced the gasket that came with the filter kit and replaced the ATF with Valvoline MAXLIFE™ MULTI-VEHICLE ATF. I am having a very difficult time getting the fluid level correct. I kept either underfilling it or overfilling it. I think this was due to the fact that the new fluid is only very lightly colored and the fact that the dipstick tube had a bend in it. Every time I would pull the dipstick in and out (after cleaning) it would scrape the side of the tube and ruin my reading I think I have more than the necessary amount of fluid in the transmission, which over time can damage the seals . I'm going to look into other methods of measuring the fluid level. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!



I noticed that after changing the fluid level the transmission shifts to the correct gear faster than before. I didn't need to rev the engine quite as high to get it to shift. However, this came at the cost of a little more rumbling while driving generally. I think this was due to the removal of all the particles in the fluid, which probably helped the torque converter maintain grip. I'm not sure.

I also checked the brake fluid. I don't think it needs a change.

Things left to do:

• Replace the serpentine belt
• Replace serpentine belt tensioner and idler pully

• Inspect rear brakes; adjust and clean
• Fix a small chip in the windshield
• Glue passenger door handle back on
• Fix fogged headlights properly
• Spraypaint suzuki elblem
• Paint touchup