2011 Aveo LT Catalytic Converter

I've owned this car since new and it only has 74k on it. A few months ago I started experiencing issues with the engine cutting out. It threw different codes, such as # 4 cylinder and other fuel related ones. I replaced the plugs and the coil pack and it seemed to run better, but I then had an issue on my way home one night. It was definitely a catalytic converter. My question is this: do these cars have cat issues? I also had to replace the front wheel bearings at 72k and this car has mostly highway miles. It was cheap, but it wasn't that cheap ;) In spite of everything, I still like the car.

Cool, thank you. The car has been sitting in my garage since that incident and I will definitely look into it. I've kicked around the idea of selling it, but I do like the little POS:)

Read some of my post on the PCV Rocker cover valve if you have a scanner watch the fuel trim it will be way high +

I probably make this a regularly replaced part it is a vacuum regulator as it let's fresh air into crankcase from underneath the coil cover back side small flat area with a looks like a devider but only has 1 small hole/port its to maintain a certain vacuum in the engine and compensate for engine blow by/ring leakage

I like these POS also got 482,000 out of a 2008 the 2009-2011 are a little diffrent as it's the VVT motor had to learn a lot on it

To test a cat you have to do a back preassure test to see if it's pluged

My research is showing that you have to buy the valve cover and PCV valve together, correct?

No you can buy it separately from my looking around there are 3 that are made in diffrent countries 1 Mexico Germany harder to find and more expensive 25-45 and the others probaly made in China and Taiwan I'd stay from China made stuff

it's a tight fit there I think 4 locking tabs sort of tight I'd probaly cut it up to remove but orignal valve covers are are around 125 better quality but I got one off ebay from a company CNS 35 shipped not the same quality but was cheap and worked and comes with a gasket from what I found the exhauat valve engine valve/rocker cover is part # 55564395 and 55558118

Zcarmaniac...well said "I still like the car!" From reading your June 25th post, we are both are 'blessed' with a 2011 Aveo (mine is a notchback (sedan) with very similar miles...at this date with 73482 miles.My question is, what symptom (s) lead you to diagnose necessary replacement of front wheel bearings? I have had a rotational noise for several (K) miles, but not sure as to cause? Also, if I may ask, what did the 'cheap' wheel bearing replacement cost? To sell or not to sell....hate to part with my (5) speed. Thank you. Robert Reynolds, Kansas City, MO. 64030

Both my cars right front wheel bearing went bad had a noise like a grinding or bad tires making noise hard to locate 2008 had play on wheel when off the ground and 2011 also but 2x the noise sort of scary almost thought it was the transmission as noise travles down the axil had a rear wheel bearing went out left rear no play but not realy bad but the grease had dried out could hear it when driving close to a deviding curb on the road with windows down jack up the car and check for each wheel for play and noise front both will have to be off the ground

find a high long wall to drive by both ways with windows down to hear some noises you normally don't hear drive throughs sometimes give me notice of pending problems or what was that noise sometimes it nothing to be concerned about but I use timken tapered bearings in the front set35 normally just a ball bearing B35

Manny thanks.....my noise is exactly as you described... a grinding noise...thought maybe cv joints.I will have no problem finding a wall or tunnel in this town to bounce and amplify noise. That's a great auto hack you won't find in repair manuals! This weekend ,I will jack up front and rear to test for excess play. Timken is a quality US brand. I think headquarters are in San Diego.

Bad Wheel bearing noise is typically a growling noise which will change when you put a load on it when you turn the wheel left or right slightly while going down the road unless both sides are bad or they have been going bad for a long time. CV noise is usually a clicking noise

i also agree that the PCV valve could be the issue with the other poster.

CV is a pop clicking noise especially turning when my 2008 had 482,000 on them and were the original the rear wheel bearings are hard to remove at least for me later ones had FAG bearings and were tapered like Timken the outer shell passed the flange is sort of thin don't know if pressing on the bearing sort of locks in in I just ended up getting hubs with bearings.

Even at my age, 482K miles on a any vehicle deserves a 'wow'; > distance from Earth to Moon! I'm curious how many times have you have had to replace the timing belt, water pump and related parts? I have seen a Utube on rear & front bearing replacement.A press is needed for the front and buying new hubs/with bearing is the way I will go for the rears. I will hire out the front bearing replacement. Good to know the difference btwn failing cv joints and wheel bearings. I have seen many Aveos that are selling for parts w/ 120-160K miles. Owners ether don't care or know about the effect on an 'interference' motor when the tensioner fails and timing belt/chain slips. Since the demand for parts is low, that salvage yards ship them to the crusher after a very short stay. They always rip or cut out the 100% Al motor for recycling. Body /interior/trim part, in my opinion, might be hard to find in the near future. Sad ending for an Italian-designed, Korean-built, GM spec'd car capable of 200K +miles if maintained.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22322378779...mis&media=COPY

https://www.ebay.com/itm/18583362028...mis&media=COPY

these are all you need to do the front bearings.

I’m rolling on 329,000 miles with my 2004
Attachment 12443

You also need a ball joint press but can use one from auto zone tool loan program

Eg.h2oHard to believe your '04 hasNOT been restored! Sooo clean. Let me guess you are the sole driver and drive with respect for your AVEO. Example of lack of respect I have seen toward an Aveo is when the owner takes the petrol pump nozzle and wacks the fuel tank door shut leaving nicks in the paint. I also bet that shinny dark green factory paint is garaged when not in use. Are the rims from a Gen2 or aftermarket? Thes talking heads that say the AVEO is the worst car made are just ignorant of impressive exceptions such as yourz. Edit...got to be a repaint or the sun never shines in N.C.

Noted...I appreciate the head up as to the tool loan program. I started driving at age 16 in 1959. Everything was D.I.Y. from the local junk card...like $5.00 carb! I paid $20 for a front clip; fenders, hood radiator support for a P15 (1948 Plymouth) Now, I can't afford to buy one that runs! Go figure!

Eg.h20
Thnx for the wheel bearing removal links. At 79, my driving career might end, according to my wife, at age 85. Might not need the kit for a 2nd time, LOL.

For me it was cheaper to buy the tools and use them than to pay a mechanic to change the bearing. I also know it was done correctly. :)
the car was bought 5 years ago for my teen daughter with 189,000 mi. When she entered service with the army I got it back. It was sad to see what 2 years of teen driving does to a car, I felt so bad for it that I’ve spent the last 3 years restoring it to new. It’s my daily driver now as I sold my 2021 Jeep (the Aveo just drives so much better).

oh, the wheels are brand new last year. Bought them from the dealer, they are for a Spark, but I did the research and they have the same dimensions as the Aveo with the added bonus of being 15”

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Originally Posted by sjcleckley1

You also need a ball joint press but can use one from auto zone tool loan program

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The one link in my previous post is a bearing remover AND installer. I’ve used this unit with success on many fwd press bearings.

Is this the one, remover/installer? https://www.ebay.com/itm/22322378779...mis&media=COPY

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Originally Posted by kcROB

Is this the one, remover/installer? https://www.ebay.com/itm/22322378779...mis&media=COPY

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Yes. It does both removal and installation

Tried this 3 times to post and got deleted trying to edit

You also will need a ball joint press can be borrowed from auto zone also when removing the hud some times the race will stick to the hub and come out of the bearing this is more tricky to get off have to grind a groove in the race and crack it to remove and not damage the hub to much

On my car when I got it with 45,000 on it flushed the engine oil a couple of times with marvel mystery in the oil and did several tramission changes as both were overly dark and some sludge was in the motor
Then did all coolant hoses, timing belt, tensioner, water pump and timing belt all gates and thermostant stant super stant, and coolant used prestone serpentine belt gates green fleet runner and gates tensioner after that replaced all at around 120,000 to 160,000 depending on how I felt I a powersports mechanic and hate working on my own things cause I do it everyday and that's about 3-5 years only replace all the hoses once, did 2 sets of plug wires used bosch, timing cover gasket about every 1 1/2 years as would start to leak and damage the spark plug boots, all wheel bearing rear once but I was able to take them apart an put in Neo synthetic grease, front wheel bearings twice I had to replace trans at 380,000 and found a loose one but was not noisy, alternator at around 250,000 bearings went out and locked up bought on if ebay with 45,000 on it for 50.00 replaced the starter once but was not bad hard cranking over around 300,000 turned out to be battery I took it apart and was in excellent shape grease was a little dry but brushes had very little wear got the replacement starter with the alternator took it apart and cleaned and lubed, alternator I did not It way to hard to service, coolant resevoir and air filter housing, air cleaner hose to throttle body, throttle body once under waranty spark plugs once a year
about all I rember now

So it's better to do preventive maintenance befor a failure

Now I rember the Cat once pluged up at 400,000 and O2 sensors oncexwith bosch

Eg.h2o My thanks to your daughter for her desire to serve our great country! I did the same in 1965 (U.S.A.F.) but w/o the approval of some elements in our country at that time. Three years ago I sold my 2008 Ram "Big Horn" with manual 6 spd 4x4 w/18K miles essentially for the same reason you sold your '21 Jeep.....15-19mpg, a hog-bear to park in urban areas, a harsh ride, rarely driven. Your intel dump that Spark wheels ,being 100mm x4 is a piece of gold! I see salvage Sparks all the time...w/wheels.Time to upgrade for the right price on a set. Your resto project speaks well for your skill and attention to detail.

sjciekley1 Being skilled and doing the work yourself with savvy short cuts save your '08 from the crusher-shredder. Gotta think of all the Aveos, gen1 &2, with pristine sheet metal that could have been put back on the road with a reasonable amount of work.Good to hear you rebuilt your own starter. As teenagers we always had starter problems and ended up taking them apart to fix. I also have had problems posting. I log in again, go back and hit the 'restore' button and my message come up ready to post.Anything you typed after the auto save prompt, will likely not appear.

As a kid my passion was taking things appart that i could get appart and had had access to them radios car parts toysand remotes vacuum an thing was broke and studying them at least had some access to a few tools not a lot my gringer was a file and hack saw my chisel was a flat bladed screw driver used that to get into a vacuum cleaner that died had think clutch or figure 8 screws my main thrill was going to the dump or going through a junk pile for things and dissamble then puting them later on putting them back together and then fixing them and making improvements better grease or parts,
The aveo starter had a bearing that was swedged or housing bore was folded over on the bearing an would have to find parts, my nissan starter all the parts were avaliable from nissan and for the alternator also
Starters last a long time now days you do not have to crank a lot on fuel injection vehicles but with carburetors you did and the got a lot hoter doing that especialy if hard to start or maintainace was not keep up

sjcleckley1 Your message has a familiar tone with me. "my main thrill was going back to the dump or going thru a junk pile for things...."absolutely what I did...AND still do. Growing up in the early-mid '50's, there was a field down the street with what I now beleive where three lat 30s Chevrolet sedans on their side, one on its top..abandoned. I removed all kinds of parts and converted one into a fort/clubhouse.Even today, when I see a 'junk' Aveo, I see only good parts, nice interior, straight body panels, etc. I know, sadly, that a motor + installation would be more than the worth of the Aveo. I have set aside parts since I bougth my 2011 in Nov '13 parts such as a pair of nearly mint taillites, and a pair of very good headlamps, gas cap door, fuses, extra set of sun visors/with mirrors. I still can't go to the local recycling facility w/o bring back metal items that can be used for projects.Even tho Father Time has taking away my ability to do heavy mechanical work, I still am able to keep up basic maintenance of my Aveo....with pride!

Same hear my body going it's hard for me to let some one else work on my stuff As I have certain ways I want things done so I will have to do it again for a long time
Since you have a 2011 one thing all my motor wire sensors solenoid conector wires the insulation started cracking letting the copper wires show through I live in the desert so it's hot so what I did was put some 3M rightstuff sealant on them to conector and the corrugated covers started to crack off I used some I think tesa tape it's a woven cloth like but ways tough to rewrap the wires

I am the same way with my Aveo oil change. I can't bear the thought of letting someone else do the job such as let it drain five minutes and fill with house brand oil. I let it drain, on the ramps, for 24 hours, blow out the oil pan by inserting my air hose nozzle into the dip stick tube and blast repeatedly until nothing blows out the drain hole. I use ONLY WIX oil filter #57674 + (5) quarts of Mobil 5-30. There is no shop I know of that will be that thorough. I see no degradation of my wiring but I will keep an eye on it.Thnx for the heads up. Several years ago I drove "Sir Passed A Lot" to AZ. Came back thru the Rockies on I-70. With my (5) speed, it was a blast to upshift/downshift with declines and inclines of the Rockies. Too much fun for an old guy! Be well!

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Originally Posted by kcROB

Zcarmaniac...well said "I still like the car!" From reading your June 25th post, we are both are 'blessed' with a 2011 Aveo (mine is a notchback (sedan) with very similar miles...at this date with 73482 miles.My question is, what symptom (s) lead you to diagnose necessary replacement of front wheel bearings? I have had a rotational noise for several (K) miles, but not sure as to cause? Also, if I may ask, what did the 'cheap' wheel bearing replacement cost? To sell or not to sell....hate to part with my (5) speed. Thank you. Robert Reynolds, Kansas City, MO. 64030

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@kcROB, the wheel bearing issue was pretty easy to detect, we just put it on a friends lift and spun the wheels, it was freaking bad. The wheel bearing replacement, with the upgraded bearings, was about 450.00. My Aveo is an automatic LT White Notchback.

Well, I got my Aveo back today and she runs like a striped a$$ed ape. We replaced both sensors and the Catalytic Converter, which was destroyed. There was quite a bit of the CC guts that made it down to the secondary cat. It was a good feeling to drive her again, especially without the trepidation of thinking it's going to strand me. The car ran and shifted beautifully.

Zcarmaniac, my estimate from a local shop was $660+/-. When it's convenient, would give me the brand and part # of the "upgraded" front wheel bearings that you used? The install $ is the same whether it be a cheapo or high quality bearing and I don't see an end to my ownership when the Aveo goes to other family members. Your feedback is much appreciated.

Well had another bearing go out came home from work stopped at Wallmart and then went home no noise next morning no noise backing up then going foward sounded like something rattling and catching and popping more you drove it it the more it guited down till none drove it 60 miles to a doctors appointment no noise but after the appointment same no noise backing up but going foward now twice as noisy it was the wheel bearing back seal popped out letting grease out and some water in and a race had some rust pits cage was coming appart after replacing it was a lot quieter on the road what I thought was road noise was the bearing going out and there was no play in the wheel this time

I use timken set35 tapered roller bearing or any other tapered wheel bearing are better than a ball bearing B35

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Originally Posted by sjcleckley1

I use timken set35 tapered roller bearing or any other tapered wheel bearing are better than a ball bearing B35

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Many thanx! Just found Timken Set 35 "new taper" roller bearing on Ebay fo 129.28. Sounds like the ones you described.

Very similar to my observatioin, no play in unloaded wheel, but plenty of rotational noise which increases in loudness as I slow down going forward. I've owned alot of cars/trucks, but this is the first wheel bearing to fail at <74K miles.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sjcleckley1

Well had another bearing go out came home from work stopped at Wallmart and then went home no noise next morning no noise backing up then going foward sounded like something rattling and catching and popping more you drove it it the more it guited down till none drove it 60 miles to a doctors appointment no noise but after the appointment same no noise backing up but going foward now twice as noisy it was the wheel bearing back seal popped out letting grease out and some water in and a race had some rust pits cage was coming appart after replacing it was a lot quieter on the road what I thought was road noise was the bearing going out and there was no play in the wheel this time

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Sounds vey similar to my situation. No play or rotational noise when wheel is unloaded, but plenty loud when going forward with loudness increasing as I slow down.

The Timken bearings are what I used.

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Originally Posted by Zcarmaniac

The Timken bearings are what I used.

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I won't go back with anything else...Timken Set #35. Thanks!

Yes, they do have cat issues. Mostly caused by the coil-pack. If one of the 4 coils quits, the engine sends unburned fuel from that cylinder into the cat and it quickly plugs the cat. In that case the car will start, but only run for a hundred yards or so and then the plugged exhaust strangles the engine. Wait 5 minutes and it will start and run again for another 100 yards. The 2 cats are expensive, plus the GM coil pack, will cost you maybe $2000. My solution is to drill both cats from from to back with a 3/4" masonry drill bit. It's easy and quick. The catalyst is soft, and drills easily. Drill the front cat thru the O2 sensor hole, and the back cat by unbolting the tail-pipe. Then the car will run almost normally, but with the CEL showing a cat error. Installing an O2 spacer in the aft O2 hole makes it run a little smoother. I just put a piece of black tape over the CEL, and drive it. 2 years later, it's still running fine. The key is keeping the O2 sensors working - they're essential for success even without the cats.