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    Thread: 2011 Aveo LT Catalytic Converter

    1. #31
      What's wrong with my car?
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      Well, I got my Aveo back today and she runs like a striped a$$ed ape. We replaced both sensors and the Catalytic Converter, which was destroyed. There was quite a bit of the CC guts that made it down to the secondary cat. It was a good feeling to drive her again, especially without the trepidation of thinking it's going to strand me. The car ran and shifted beautifully.



    2. #32
      What do you mean there's no turbo?
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      Zcarmaniac, my estimate from a local shop was $660+/-. When it's convenient, would give me the brand and part # of the "upgraded" front wheel bearings that you used? The install $ is the same whether it be a cheapo or high quality bearing and I don't see an end to my ownership when the Aveo goes to other family members. Your feedback is much appreciated.

    3. #33
      Should I keep it?
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      Well had another bearing go out came home from work stopped at Wallmart and then went home no noise next morning no noise backing up then going foward sounded like something rattling and catching and popping more you drove it it the more it guited down till none drove it 60 miles to a doctors appointment no noise but after the appointment same no noise backing up but going foward now twice as noisy it was the wheel bearing back seal popped out letting grease out and some water in and a race had some rust pits cage was coming appart after replacing it was a lot quieter on the road what I thought was road noise was the bearing going out and there was no play in the wheel this time

    4. #34
      Should I keep it?
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      I use timken set35 tapered roller bearing or any other tapered wheel bearing are better than a ball bearing B35

    5. The Following User Says Thank You to sjcleckley1 For This Useful Post:

      kcROB (12-07-2023)

    6. #35
      What do you mean there's no turbo?
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      Quote Originally Posted by sjcleckley1 View Post
      I use timken set35 tapered roller bearing or any other tapered wheel bearing are better than a ball bearing B35
      Many thanx! Just found Timken Set 35 "new taper" roller bearing on Ebay fo 129.28. Sounds like the ones you described.
      Last edited by kcROB; 12-07-2023 at 05:48 PM.

    7. #36
      What do you mean there's no turbo?
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      Very similar to my observatioin, no play in unloaded wheel, but plenty of rotational noise which increases in loudness as I slow down going forward. I've owned alot of cars/trucks, but this is the first wheel bearing to fail at <74K miles.

    8. #37
      What do you mean there's no turbo?
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      Quote Originally Posted by sjcleckley1 View Post
      Well had another bearing go out came home from work stopped at Wallmart and then went home no noise next morning no noise backing up then going foward sounded like something rattling and catching and popping more you drove it it the more it guited down till none drove it 60 miles to a doctors appointment no noise but after the appointment same no noise backing up but going foward now twice as noisy it was the wheel bearing back seal popped out letting grease out and some water in and a race had some rust pits cage was coming appart after replacing it was a lot quieter on the road what I thought was road noise was the bearing going out and there was no play in the wheel this time
      Sounds vey similar to my situation. No play or rotational noise when wheel is unloaded, but plenty loud when going forward with loudness increasing as I slow down.

    9. #38
      What's wrong with my car?
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      The Timken bearings are what I used.

    10. The Following User Says Thank You to Zcarmaniac For This Useful Post:

      kcROB (12-11-2023)

    11. #39
      What do you mean there's no turbo?
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zcarmaniac View Post
      The Timken bearings are what I used.
      I won't go back with anything else...Timken Set #35. Thanks!

    12. #40
      What's wrong with my car?
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      Yes, they do have cat issues. Mostly caused by the coil-pack. If one of the 4 coils quits, the engine sends unburned fuel from that cylinder into the cat and it quickly plugs the cat. In that case the car will start, but only run for a hundred yards or so and then the plugged exhaust strangles the engine. Wait 5 minutes and it will start and run again for another 100 yards. The 2 cats are expensive, plus the GM coil pack, will cost you maybe $2000. My solution is to drill both cats from from to back with a 3/4" masonry drill bit. It's easy and quick. The catalyst is soft, and drills easily. Drill the front cat thru the O2 sensor hole, and the back cat by unbolting the tail-pipe. Then the car will run almost normally, but with the CEL showing a cat error. Installing an O2 spacer in the aft O2 hole makes it run a little smoother. I just put a piece of black tape over the CEL, and drive it. 2 years later, it's still running fine. The key is keeping the O2 sensors working - they're essential for success even without the cats.





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