cleaning the engine

[rodo]

Just the good old high pressure water gun at the local car wash or something else?

Modern engines, with a few exceptions like 1st gen Neons, do a pretty good job of keeping the oil on the inside. Without that being a problem, we've been able to keep our engines looking pretty new for 8+ years just by regularly keeping the plant matter and other road debris vacuumed out of the crevices, spot cleaning with a mild detergent, keeping on top of any battery corrosion, and promptly dealing with any fluid spills or leaks. So, I'd say my key tools for this are a shop vac with a good assortment of attachments and some damp rags. This is the vacuum set I use to reach the cracks and small spaces: 8 Piece Micro Vacuum Attachment Kit

Most of our local DIY car washes have eliminated their engine wands and/or cleaners and I don't like the lack of pressure control with the regular cleaning wands - they tend to blow paint and decals off our older engines. I have an air powered engine cleaning tool, but is just okay for spot cleaning. It's easier on the paint and decals, but would take a looong time to clean a completely gunked up engine bay.

Our Suburban engine was professionally detailed after 15 years and 200K+ miles. The steam cleaning did a beautiful job, but I would skip the spray they applied after cleaning to give everything that shinny "new" look. We had a minor A/C problem fixed a few months later and the shop still couldn't run a leak test because whatever they used with was still messing with the sensor on their detector. The other caution on sprays in the engine bay is the risk of silicone (Armor All, 3-in-1, etc) contamination of the O2 sensors. Probably not such an issue with the ducting on the Aveo, but something to be aware of - especially before you start cleaning the inside of your filter box.

[2010AveoLT]

Modern engines, with a few exceptions like 1st gen Neons, do a pretty good job of keeping the oil on the inside. Without that being a problem, we've been able to keep our engines looking pretty new for 8+ years just by regularly keeping the plant matter and other road debris vacuumed out of the crevices, spot cleaning with a mild detergent, keeping on top of any battery corrosion, and promptly dealing with any fluid spills or leaks. So, I'd say my key tools for this are a shop vac with a good assortment of attachments and some damp rags. This is the vacuum set I use to reach the cracks and small spaces: 8 Piece Micro Vacuum Attachment Kit

Most of our local DIY car washes have eliminated their engine wands and/or cleaners and I don't like the lack of pressure control with the regular cleaning wands - they tend to blow paint and decals off our older engines. I have an air powered engine cleaning tool, but is just okay for spot cleaning. It's easier on the paint and decals, but would take a looong time to clean a completely gunked up engine bay.

Our Suburban engine was professionally detailed after 15 years and 200K+ miles. The steam cleaning did a beautiful job, but I would skip the spray they applied after cleaning to give everything that shinny "new" look. We had a minor A/C problem fixed a few months later and the shop still couldn't run a leak test because whatever they used with was still messing with the sensor on their detector. The other caution on sprays in the engine bay is the risk of silicone (Armor All, 3-in-1, etc) contamination of the O2 sensors. Probably not such an issue with the ducting on the Aveo, but something to be aware of - especially before you start cleaning the inside of your filter box.

that was not the fault of the engine itself, the Chrysler Engineers failed to put Proper Leak-Proof Gaskets in the thing! as for cleaning the LXV-Scootadrive, I just use that classic Standby: Regular Soap and Water, on a Damp Cloth Towel.

[me2dumb4college]

This is my process, which I learned from my Mustang Forum buddies...

1 Bottle of Simple Green
1 Squirt Bottle
1 Armoral Protectant Spray
1 Roll of paper towels

Run the car till it gets to operating temp. Shut engine off, cover alternator with plastic bag, spray engine with fine mist spray of water, respray with fine mist a 1/2 water 1/2 simple green concentration and then close the hood, but not all the way shut. The steam from the water and the simple green degreases the engine really well. After about 7-10 minutes, check out engine, reapply with a more concentrated mist if it's still greasy and dirty, otherwise, use water and paper towels to wipe off all surfaces. The dirt and grime comes off pretty easily. Next apply the armoral. I just spray the whole engine with a nice midst, but you can also apply it using a paper towel. Either way, wipe it down so you don't get streaks in the coating and viola...