it idles really high, but i got it to 5k and it still behaved the same. i stomped the gas pedal in every gear and it still didnt want to go any where reallyOriginally Posted by petrified.rabbit
*edit* i'll post this here to, not getting much on the other forum. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4514674
Hmmm, did you check the firing order? It might not be hitting right or you could have some ****ty plugs. Did it sputter at all?
Farthest North Aveo: Fairbanks, Alaska
i heard sputtering, but theres also an exhaust leak, and i believed that was the cause. the engine itself didnt sputter, just the exhaust.
Its probably specific Corrado thing, not the plugs, tuneup etc.
if it is related to the ABS failure, you need to either unplug the abs unit, or pull the fuse. (The fuse would be easier at night). If that takes the problem away then you know it is in your braking ABS system. Those ABS systems are pretty complicated and not the best design. If that is the problem i would swap it out to a non ABS system myself, but do not want to give you that advice.
From your description, I would also check the actuator arms on the rear calipers. Just to see if your parking brake is stuck on.. you would need 2 people, one pulling the ebrake while you watch to see if thing move, and return, then check if they are going there full range. If they are on even a little bit while driving that could also drop the fluid level turning on the light.
If it is a tuning problem with the engine, i can not figure out why the brake light would be on. Unless the two are unrelated.
How fast were you able to drive? because if the booster was blown i dont thing you would have gotten up to speed. And i heard the car run before, and i know Walt checked the boost. I don't remember the results, but it was charging.
i'll def check the parking brake because walt used it, and it worked, but after leaving his house, it wouldnt. i can hit any speed, but if the car is being held back by the brakes/ABS, then all the boost i'd normally be feeling is whats getting the car moving. the car seems to hit 4k RPM before its at a speed i need to shift at. i know that isnt normal
*edit* just took the car out, and its def boosting. now that its late, i can hear the grinding from the brakes. their def seized at some point. i should have the car on jacks and have the problem assessed tomorrow.
Nice, glad to hear you've got it mostly diagnosed. I hope it works out for you and it's not too costly. It's a VW anyways though so no matter what it will be worth it.
Farthest North Aveo: Fairbanks, Alaska
unfortunately, it is common for rear vw calipers to hang up.. they are sort of cheap, but often even rebuilt replacement will hang up it the car is parked for a week or so with the e-brake on..
if you need any ideas, lmk. It would be worth it to upgrade to mk4 calipers when you get some money if the problem persists or you decide to buy replacements.
you have any idea what cluster is the main relay for the ABS? i forget if you own a corrado or not, so i may be asking the wrong person. i tried unplugging the sensor wires that were on each strut tower, and that worked for like 5 minutes. but after that the steering went tight, and the brake pedal got rock hard again. i should also ask, what should i lube/replace/shim on the rear calipers to keep them from seizing again?
unplugging the sensors won't bypass the abs, it will actually fault them.
1990 Corrado G-60) :
1) If you have ABS, then you don't have a brake booster. Instead, the hydraulic pump/accumulator system powers your brakes. By powers I mean it uses positive pressure from the accumulator to make your brake pedal easy to push in. A swap to the "non-ABS" Corrado brake master cylinder requires modifying the hydraulic brake lines at the master cylinder - alot of folks on the Tex got this right.
2) If you have the "rock hard brake pedal" it means your hydraulic pump hasn't pumped up the accumulator to operating pressure. You have no power assist. This problem will occur in concert with your red brake light being lit. Chances are good you can't lock up your wheels when braking and your car is NOT safe to drive like this.
3) You can't simply pull the ABS relay (#78 in fuse block slot 13) to disable your ABS. This will disable the hydraulic pump that, in concert with accumulator, makes your brakes easy to push down (ie eliminates the rock hard pedal). So if you pull the ABS relay (#78 in slot 13) your brake pedal will get rock hard as soon as you've used the brakes enough to depressurize the accumulator). NOT SMART!
4) The hydraulic accumulator gets its electrical power through the load reduction relay (#18 in slot 4). This relay turns off the ABS pump, all the wiper motors, the Heater/AC blower fan, and the rear defroster when you turn your ignition to the "start" position. (It does this to get max power to the starter to turn your angry little PG motor over). After you release your key from "start" back to "on" position, the load reduction relay is again supposed to provide power back to these things. So, if the load reduction relay goes out in the wrong position not only will you have the "rock hard brake pedal", but also your heater/AC fan and those other things I mentioned above will not work. So if your ABS brakes aren't working AND your AC/heater blower does not work then your load reduction relay is a likely problem.
5) If the ABS light comes on and stays on, you have no ABS! But, your brakes can still work as long as the red brake light does not come on.
6) If your red brake light comes and stays on even after you've released your emergency brake...you've got a problem. Very shortly your brake pedal will get hard and you'll be unable to lock up your brakes. Your car is NOT safe to drive at this point.
7) You can check the proper operation of the ABS hydraulic pump, accumulator, and pressure switch by doing this (from the Bentley manual): With the car turned off, press the bake pedal about 25 times (This bleeds all the pressure from the accumulator to let you check proper operation of your hydraulic pump, accumulator, and pressure switch. Turn your car to "on" (not start). Your hydraulic pump should operate for 60 seconds or less and you will hear this as a loud hum from under the master cylinder. It should turn off before it reaches 61 seconds. The pressure switch senses adequate pressure in the accumulator and shuts off the hydraulic pump. After the pump shuts off (you can tell because the loud hum goes away) and with the key still in the "on" position , if you pump the brake pedal a couple of times, the pump will turn back on briefly to re-pressurize your accumulator and then turn back off. This means that things are working ok.
9) The Bentley manual continues to be worth its weight in gold for the Corrrado
i would use antiseize on the calipers, either the copper or the silver, i forget which is higher temp. they will need cleaned up about yearly anyhow.
I do not own a corrado, too many around that if i need a corrado fix i will just borrow one for a week or so.
Posting Permissions
LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Reply With Quote