help! changed spark plugs, will not start; put old plugs back in, STILL won't start!

Hi everyone, I have been lurking, reading posts, first post. I am an IT guy, not a mechanic, but I know how to research and am not afraid to ask questions or try new things.

I have a 2010 Aveo5, 5 speed, 95k. I bought it after it sat for months in someone's yard, and it was a pigsty. I thoroughly cleaned it and replaced the seats, carpeting and seat belts from a donor car.

I bought a front pipe (flex was shot) and replaced the right tie rod end. The cat was plugged, straight piped it.

Fun to drive! It runs well at speed but will not idle well. Cold, it sputters and almost dies; warm, it usually revs up to about 3000 rpm. Cleaned the MAF and TB, replaced the TB with a junkyard TB, no diff. New MAP, air box and filter, battery, rear shocks and hubs, new front tires, both O2 sensors, no diff. Sprayed starting fluid everywhere, no diff.

I back probed the MAP and have 5v, a good ground, and a reference voltage that moves with acceleration, but getting P0106 MAP sensor error and P0171 lean error. Also getting 50+ mpg!

Latest issue just tonight: replaced good Autolite copper 5224 plugs with iridium BK6REIX-11 plugs off Amazon. Would not start. Put the 5224's back in, plugged everything back in, still won't start! Not sure how to troubleshoot with no wires. I have a $ scanner, no codes since the plug swap. Ran the battery down, will try again with a full charge in the morning and see if it throws any new codes. I quickly beeped all the fuses.

The no start is critical; I have a guy coming to look at it Tuesday. Any help/advice on the no start or bad idle much appreciated!

Rob

You need 4 things to have a running car/motor compression fuel spark and timing ignition and cam pull all 4 plugs install them into the coli ground the tips check for spark then check for fuel preassure and then check for injector signal get a noid light make sure the timing belt good and did not break or jump timing did you diasconect any thing

Also you mention an high idle in the valve cover there is a vacuum regulator for PCV the go bad and cause problems big vacuum leak

Attachment 12508Sorry for the late reply.

After 3 days of troubleshooting, I prayed for wisdom and guidance. (Why is that never the first thing I do?)

I decided to start where the problem started - when I disconnected the coil pack.

I removed the connector and started looking. Directly underneath the coil pack connector was a connector with 5 black leads bolted to the block - grounds! One ground wire was busted off at the connector end. I peeled back the brittle wire cover, peeled off all the electrical tape, and the broken wire was from the coil pack connector! I crimped on an eyelet, cleaned up the ground connector, bolted it all back to the block, and VA-ROOM! I am SO fortunate!