Unfortunately the free source I use for wiring diagrams of vehicles that I don't own is erratic and hit-or-miss. And in this case it's not showing a diagram for the TPS with actuator. And I searched elsewhere, with no luck either. So without the pinout of the connector, it would be fairly time consuming to try figuring out what each pin does. And then there's the APS that comes into play with the drive-by-wire setup as well.

The TPS can't be replaced on these, so the entire throttle body would need to be replaced. I can't in any way suggest replacing the TB and the APS pedal assembly, because that's just throwing darts. The TPS normally sets a code when it goes bad, so that's a big factor in favor of not hanging on a new TB. Although it's true that the TPS and APS are in the ballpark for the symptoms you're getting, there's been nothing yet to strongly indicate that either one of them is bad. It would be helpful to find that TPS and APS wiring diagram, in order to do some testing. Alldata and Mitchell have them, but it costs $$ to subscribe those.

There is one other thing I want to mention related to your compression testing. My compression readings were quite a bit higher - all right around 200 PSI. One thing I suggest is to repeat that test and see if the results are actually around 150. If they are, I'd want to find another compression tester to see if perhaps your gauge is not reading correctly. IMO compression around 150 would likely indicate a timing belt loop issue. Timing is a bit of a PITA to check, because you have to remove the harmonic balancer in order to get the timing cover off to be able to see the crank pulley mark. Unfortunately this starts to get into the non-simple area now.