can some one give me a step by step how to flush my rad coolant?
Printable View
can some one give me a step by step how to flush my rad coolant?
Ok...
1. When you open the hood, remove the surge tank cap.
2. The rad plug is on the left hand side on the bottom. Remove it.
3. Once drained, put the plug on, fill the system with 50-50 premixed antifreeze.
4. Run the engine until at operating temp, then drive for 15 minutes.
5. Wait for the coolant to cool, and remove the plug and drain again.
6. Put plug back on and refill with fresh 50-50 premixed antifreeze again.
7. Stand back and admire a job well done.
Couldn't you fill it with just water for the 15 minute drive, and use the 50/50 for the final fill-up?
y would you do this flash thing you guys are talking about?
I'm sure he means flush... to get the crud out of there that accumulates over timeQuote:
Originally Posted by loose
how much coolent do i need to fill the system, so i fill it at the surge tank?
it should say in your owner manualQuote:
Originally Posted by deniswhite1
That's what GM says in the Daewoo Manual but you can't get a 50-50 mix after because some of the water stays in the system. When using the 50-50 mix, you get no chance of messing the balance. Trust me I've been having only problems getting my mix back up to 50-50.Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroAveo
You should only need 2 gallons for this.
to avoid build up, only use distilled water.
And as for flashing, perhaps you will scare the mineral deposits out of your system... I would suggest giving this a shot and let us know the results.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...0webdesign.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by subachad
When I lived in Florida, I never bought anti-freeze. It never freezes in Florida so why bother. I also never took that car out of the state.Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroAveo
Antifreeze does 4 things.Quote:
Originally Posted by aveodude
1. It acts as a coolant
2. Keeps the fluid from freezing in below 0 temp.
3. Prevents rust from building in the whole system. (Pump, passages...etc.)
4. Raises the boiling point of water.
if you use distilled water, it wont harm the system, plus the notion of it flash rusting just because there isn't coolant in there isn't entirely true. you just need to flush the system more often. a lot more. but it can be done without problems. a product like water wetter will even make it as efficient as coolant, and last almost as long as traditional coolants.
only thing is if your car is still under warranty, changing the coolant type will void and possible warranty against the head gasket, water pump, and overheating.. regardless of that act.. because it is a direct modification.
Water acts as a coolantQuote:
Originally Posted by ontarian_frog
It does not freeze in 90% of Florida
How is is going to rust and aluminum head, block, and radiator?
keep an eye on the fluid
Plus when you spill water on your belts, it will not corrode them. And when your dog licks it up after you spill it, it will not die.
Antifreeze has its place, just not in tropical climates.
The main concern in tropical locations would be the boiling point. Since water boils at 100C and most cooling systems run at about 150C, you will mostly likely run into problems with air lock and overheating. I'd stick to using coolant, it also acts as a lubricant for the water pump.
+1
I live in Jacksonville, Florida, and it freezed on several occasions this past winter.
If you live in south florida, it might not, but in north or central it's bound to freeze at least once.
If your coolant system runs at 150C (302F) the engine will not be running much longer. Most thermostats open at 195F(90C) and at 240F(115C) you are seriously overheatingQuote:
Originally Posted by 07_aveo
I lived in ft lauderdale. never dropped below 50. ahh the days.Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroAveo
i always used 160 or 180 degree thermostats.. but the system is pressurized to delay the boiling point.Quote:
Originally Posted by aveodude
I should have said, most cars stock use a 195
I use a 180 in my car. I find that I get much worse gas mileage with the 160 because the car is constantly in open loop
yeah, i can see that with a tiny 4 banger, i usually use a 160 in vr6 vw's, the tend to run so hot with the big engine stuff in the little compartment you can cooks eggs on the hood..Quote:
Originally Posted by aveodude
tiny 4 banger.....ouch
changing the coolent this weekend :lol:
what tool do i need to open that drain plug?
I think it's a 12mm wrench.
but there is ruber around the metal, em i supost to take it of. i will try tomorowQuote:
Originally Posted by ontarian_frog
the plug is not on the bottom but on the passenger side, near the bottom of the radiator and you should only need a wrench. It's on the black plastic tank of the rad, the plug is black and plastic also. It has the shape of a nut.
front of the rad or back of the rad?Quote:
Originally Posted by ontarian_frog
Thanks
side. it's a tight spot. the ac lines are a little in the way.
got it done, manual says the system fits 7L, but after draing the system complitly, i can only fit 5.5L in to my system.
thats because you cant drain the heater core, the hoses run to the top.
Check it again after it has ran a day.
Brining a thread back to life from the dead...
I'm about to do this today with AMSOil antifreeze... will drain it first, fill with water, run for 10-15 minutes, let cool... refill with antifreeze/water mix...