What tools req'd for front disc change on '06 Aveo

I'mmmm Back! Thanks to those helping with my last post regarding fuel economy on our '06 Aveo. I am back with another one for y'all. Last week my girlfriend had a RF tire blow, I put the donut on and she drove less than 10mis to the WalMart where a new tire was purchased and mounted and drove home about 2mis. I drove to work that night and noticed the car pulling to the left while braking. She had not noticed it while driving on the donut nor on the new tire on the way home , (but that was only 2 mi under 45 mph). I'm going to pull the tire tomorrow and look at the brakes. We were told about a month ago that the brakes would need to be changed soon but I have not heard the low pad indicator scraping as of yet. Blow out/Tire change may or may not be related. Can you guys tell me what size wrenches/sockets I will need to release the caliper and remove the rotor. Anything out of the ordinary about re-packing the wheel bearing and replacing grease seal? I'm wondering if maybe the LF caliper is hanging up due to being extended so far??
Thanks!

Shouldn't need to do anything with the bearings. I don't know the wrench size for the caliper but if you have a metric set that ranges from 10 to 21, and all sizes in between, you should be fine.

Is the pull barely noticeable or major? Is the new RF tire the same brand/model as the LF tire? Overall diameter varies slightly from brand to brand and if your LF is significantly worn there may be enough difference between the new and old tires to cause a slight pull.

Ideally tires on the same axle would be replaced at the same time.


As far as tools go, I listed socket sizes when I did the wheel bearing on my '10. I don't know if your '06 will be the same.

http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f81/g...-2010-a-12798/

the new tire is a different brand, basically same tread pattern. I am planning on rotating the tires to see what that does. The pull is pretty noticeable, especially at highway speeds.
Thanks for the link to your post, looks like I might be OK except for the snap ring pliers, that's ok, it seems to be a ritual to expand the tool set just a little with each new job/project!

You should not need to worry about the wheel bearing for brake servicing.

This video should give you some idea of what's in there: 2010 Chevrolet Aveo 5 spindle install after front wheel bearing replacement - YouTube

Thanks Wylee, Just wanted to know beforehand in case i get in there and have to
pull the rotors to get cut

Pulling the rotors doesn't require pulling the bearings.

Rotor/pad change requires: Sockets, box wrenches, a phillips head driver, a caliper piston compressor ( Big C clamp and a thin block of wood ), brake grease. Ideally you shouldn't reuse the caliper slide pins/boots. But if they're clean and the boots aren't worn, I would just grease up the pins and reuse them. The phillips screws on the rotors are on the large side, use the correct sized driver to avoid stripping them, as they get stuck pretty good.

The first time I did a disc brake job, I think it took me around 3 hours for 2 corners. It isn't hard at all.

Edit: Here's a basic guide:

1. Pull wheel
2. Remove two bolts holding the caliper onto the caliper carrier (socket on one end, box wrench on the other).
3. Move the caliper out of the way and suspend it from the suspension using wire, making sure not to put stress on the brake line/fitting.
4. Remove the Brake pads, they lift right out.
5. Remove the caliper carrier (I think this was two bolts, probably a nut on the other end like the caliper pins).
6. Remove the rotor (I believe the aveo has 2 phillips screws in the "hub" of the rotor).
7. Install the new rotor.
8. Install the caliper carrier.
9. Grease the backing on the new pads.
10. Compress the caliper piston using a C clamp and a piece of wood. It should end up flush with the face of the caliper. Do NOT OVER COMPRESS IT.
11. Grease the part of the caliper bolts that is not threaded.
12. Reinstall the caliper and slider boots, again being careful not to stress the brake line or fittings.
12A. Probably a good time to spray everything down with brake cleaner.
13. Reinstall the wheel.
14. Repeat on other side.
15. Start the car, pump the brakes a couple times to reset the caliper piston.
16. TEST CAREFULLY.

Just wanted to thank y'all for your much appreciated assistance. The job was easy, only needed a 10mm 6pt socket for the bleeder and a 14mm box wrench for the caliper bolts. The rotors looked good and there was no pedal pulse on the test drive so I did not remove them to get cut. Sorry about my naivety on the rotor/wheel bearings wylee, forgot I was dealing with front wheel drive, duh!
Thanx for the detailed procedures exodus, I opted for prying on a large screwdriver between the old pad and caliper housing to compress the piston as I left my big C-clamp out in Jersey when I moved.

Thanks again!